S124AB
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Posts posted by S124AB
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It should be an NZ assembled car.
Honda will give him $2500 based on change over to a new car as a trade.
Probably worth $3990 on a cheapie yard.
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There's a Wolseley Car Club on freakbook, maybe contact the admin and ask as they state they have lots of spares...
https://www.facebook.com/pages/category/Community/Wolseley-Car-Club-New-Zealand-613462255336893/
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For the piners...
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I used Automotive Blasting in Pukekohe a few years ago to do a car for me.
Worth talking to as well.
Nothing wrong with Autoblast, but heard from a number of people he's bloody expensive.
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3 hours ago, Benno said:
Thoughts on this one?
http://www.pacer.co.nz/product-group/1819-rust-kill/category/363-panel-paint-prep
I'd choose the Brunox instead, as once it's chemically converted it, the epoxy seals over as a base for two pack primers.
It's pretty much the only product Repair Certifiers are approving to kill/cure rust with the exception of sandblasting, and then the bare metal is sprayed with Brunox once blasted.
Got one vehicle in compliance at the mo with a few small spots, and this is what they are using.
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Once cleaned and sanded, spray Brunox onto the bare steel .
It's a rust converter and epoxy primer in one. After two-three coats a day apart and another 24 hours to cure, you can sand, two pack prime etc.
http://www.pacer.co.nz/product-group/1561-brunox-epoxy-rust-killer-aero/category/301-brunox
Watch attached video on how it works.
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10 hours ago, kiwi808 said:
Yes, for me growing up, I always wanted an RX-3 coupe but couldn’t afford one. (Can’t afford one now either) but I liked all coupes. So again I can’t understand why they are worth so much more.
You answered your own question...desirability. Same reason guys want size 10 good looking blond chicks. Most can't afford them either, end up with the saggy arse stationwagon with the wining diff, and poorly repaired frontal impact....
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Older Swifts are also getting in the under $5 k trade in mark.
Will see what I can find tomorrow, if I remember.....
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Whatever you do, if there are traces of a repair, the inspector will probably require a repair certifier to inspect.
It's a catch 22, show them as is, and get ping'd, or try and repair it, see the fresh underseal, and get ping'd.
Cars end up at PAP for a reason, the dealer probably traded it for $500 or less, probably no current WOF, expired Reg.
Under the current legislation, dealers are liable for existing faults if not declared on resale, and many of the guys I know just can't be bothered with old shit, it always comes back to bite, that's why it's off to PAP and get $300 folding in return.
Car is probably worth a grand tops on road with a years rego and fresh WOF.
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I remember back in the day the rally guys used to say they got about 4 miles to the gallon in competition stages.
That's 6.5 km per 4.54 litres, or just under 1.5 km per litre.
Fast stages like Woodhill, probably got better economy.....
This pic reminds me of Woodhill where they could get about 140 mph on the long straights only to throw it sideways while at full noise.
Thought the driver of this was Reece Jones, but other pics I have of him show 12 a front.
Anyway quick march down memory lane....
Cool thread for 1981 Hamilton Tarmac Rally pics.
http://www.theroaringseason.com/showthread.php?232-Hamilton-Tarmac-Rally-1981
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14 minutes ago, flyingbrick said:
Seems very very hard to find stuff that meets OEM quality and when we find it we dont want to pay.
Funnily a couple of years ago my 1990 Corolla needed new shocks, they were cheaper going OEM originals from Toyota NZ, than replacing with aftermarket.
If the manufacturers do have parts that aftermarket guys are targeting, then they can be surprisingly competitive, pads, rotors, shoes, shocks etc. But they fuck you over when it's an item only they have...
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Chances are more recently KYB's have been coming out of China, or non Japanese Asian market.
I import cars and have quite a few vehicles fail at compliance with leaking shocks, and they have just been idling around the streets of Tokyo.
However, I'd talk with the suspension expert at Stocks, who have a dedicated motorsport workshop just for suspension overhaul and set ups.
The guy did my suspension a couple of years ago, and knows his shit. Give him a call to discuss.
Stocks are also agents for KYB and Koni, plus Kings Springs.
Got a location in CHCH.
https://www.georgestock.co.nz/contact/
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Glue some tinfoil on the bases....
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5 hours ago, Bling said:
Sweet sounds like a plan, epoxy and i'll look into cavity wax options. Cheers.
For older cars, a cavity wax like Novol (will need an applicator gun), or Teroson in a spray can, as they are a bit more 'runny' than Wurth or Car System.
This is better for older cars as there is more seepage into the seams, panel folds etc.
A little secret is to warm up the spray cans first, hot water in a bucket, and put cans in there for 10 min or so.
This makes the wax flow better.
It will take hours, and possibly days to dry properly, as the solvent needs to evaporate. You could then reapply a thicker wax like Wurth to add extra thickness.
Best applied when it's hot and dry, so no moisture present where you want the wax to go.
Most of them are brown in colour, but Wurth is a cream colour.
Cleans up with turps, wax and grease remover etc.
https://smitsgroup.co.nz/product/82310/teroson-wx215-cavity-wax-spray-aerosol-500ml
http://www.raj.co.nz/product-group/503-ks250-cavity-wax-areo/category/69-bonding-sealing
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With the cold weather arriving, I've developed a bit of a 'soft on'.
In search of something to firm me up......
This did the trick......boring Mitsi vs ....
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1 hour ago, Taistorm said:
Hey guys,
I have an ignition question in regards to setting up my s4/5 13b bp running a 48mm ida weber, will be setup for street use but the occasional track run. I'm trying to work out the best ignition/coil setup I can go for. Have been reading up on various sources and seems common setups include running the the j109 modules controlling a pair of either hec715, mec723 or gt40 coils.
It seems the hec715 provides a better spark at lower rpm so is better for a boosted setup (as opposed to na) and the mec723 shines for high revving setups and then the gt40s are a go to since way back.
I have also started looking into a dlidfis setups which are essentially a poor man's wasted spark setup and the other msd setups available.
How should I go about this?
Edit: also if anyone has suggestions on some decent thick high tension leads (10mm) or similar please let me know.
Cheers
There's a thread or two on Ausrotary about it.
http://www.ausrotary.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=167338
I asked my engine builder about doing similar, and he said just keep it simple...
So for my 12A BP with Weber 48 is electronic dizzy with J109's.
Not sure who does 10 mm leads, but doubt you need them that thick, 8 mm should be fine.
I sourced Denso ones and plugs from the US as wanted factory style black leads, not bright blue or other wank colours.
https://www.densoproducts.com/Denso-Automotive-Products-l1351.aspx
Is part of https://www.sparkplugs.com
I ordered a few sets of both NGK and Denso plugs.
For coils I got MSD 'Blaster' High Vibration.
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For printing using Pantone systems
https://www.schemecolor.com/mazda-logo-colors.php
Some old school Mazda colours here.
Concorde Silver (D6) was the main one around, but they were metallic, not solid colours. Otherwise visit a car painter, as they should have colour swatch books to match something up.
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39 minutes ago, Popwill said:
How about posting the car that got you into rotaries in the first place...? The first time you heard one, sat in one or saw one racing...?
Possums' black RX-3 Coupe sponsored by Statesman Shirts. Saw this car in a stage at Riverhead Forest, cracked a fat, and fell in love. I was about 16 then.
Same car but different ownership.
Idolised this car in local rallies, hillclimbs etc Think driver was Peter Nunn.
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3 hours ago, dabuzz said:
you ever going to finish that @S124AB? I was following the build on Ausrotary, and it looked real close last update which was a very long time ago
It has at best, a week or two of mucking around will finish it.
Currently working on getting the use of some secure workshop space so I can get it sorted.
Yes, it has been a long time, probably will be too scared to drive it when running as I know all the vermin will be following it around ....
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PAINT THREAD
in Tech Talk
Posted
Pearl is usually a three layer process, a base solid white, then the mica effect, finally clear on the top.
These will also have a hardener added which starts a chemical reaction when mixed with the paint, so time limited as how long you've got till application.
I was overhearing a conversation in a trade paint shop which also makes up automotive paints, and customer was wanting to do a similar thing.
Think the guy was explaining this special spray can that had the hardener in a separate part of the aerosol and could be mixed in somehow just prior to spraying.
Here's their website, ask them to explain it over the phone.
They can probably have it couriered to you as well.
I don't think you can get a pearl in a single can though, but ask them and helps if you have the paint code. If not tell them Toyota 070, which is a common Toyota Pearl White.
http://www.wpcpaints.co.nz