spiderwebfx

Thanks for that Clint, really appreciate it. One thing I want to check with what you've said, I do have the ability to check the toe at my work on the alignment machine, but I don't have a load binder (although I could make one with a hydraulic jack. But also, I doubt my car has 50mm of positive and negative travel due to coilovers. Also, if I can get another alignment place in Rotorua to do bump steer measurements and printout on their Hunter alignment machine, can that be used instead of paying the additional fee or do the certifiers have to do their own check anyway?

Oh and S14 Cusco coilovers, which I'm about to replace with some Yellowspeed units. (Cusco's are fried, only had them to help set it all up)

S13/S14 Hybrid setup. S12 crossmember. S13 lower control arms, nolathane inner bushes, S14 balljoints S14 hub carrier and 5 stud hubs S14 steering rack, rack ends shortened 10mm, factory spec S14 tie rod ends. custom spline shaft to mate rack and column (nothing was welded). S13 adjustable caster rods S14 caster rod brackets S13 swaybar with nolathane bushes I'm contemplating getting roll center adjuster balljoints, and spaced down tie rod ends, but not if I don't need to.

So I've been told I need to do a bump steer test on my car by Neil Miller in Hamilton. Price tag = ouch and I get charged again if it has to be redone. (not the full amount, but still enough to make me not want to get it done.) Is there anyway I can check the bump steer myself so that I don't have to pay for it a second time? Do I actually have to have it done? I can give some insight into the front suspension set up if that makes a difference in advice. Also for driveshaft hoop, I went with the above with what you said with 100x50mm for the top 'washer' and have it all installed, but again spoke to Neil Miller and he says it needs to be 120x50. I'm happy to change it if I need to but I'm starting to think I should just bite the bullet and take this car to Auckland for a cert as everyone around central NI keeps changing things.

Thought I'd chuck a couple more photos up. Driveshaft hoop is in, alignment kind of done. Need new front coilovers, extended balljoints/roll centre adjustabers and lowered tie rod ends so I'll have to re do it. And got told cert is going to cost $900 because I need bump steer test :/ Is Neil Miller in Hamilton ok to deal with? Rear end: On the hoist for exhaust: Driveshaft hoop:

R180/R200 aren't solid rear. Hilux would be my recommendation. That's what I've put in my S12.

A couple of other photos: And first start up video. (Coolant on the floor was from a water pump with shit seals, I've since replaced it.)

Anybody got an easy way to work out spring rates? or what there weight characteristics are?

Oh god the motivation is real at the moment. So following up from the last post, a lot has happened. Turning the key wasn't so simple. I ended up wiring it three times before it finally fired. And even then it was with the fuel pump controlled by the ignition switch, for some reason the ECU won't control it and I couldn't figure out why. So it starts and runs, runs perfect considering its missing most of the exhaust and the intake is just bodged up to get it running. I also removed a lot of the wasted stuff from the engine loom that hadn't already been taken off, and then completely retaped it. I mounted the new ECU inside the old ECU box so that it could be put in the same place. I went to Repco and they managed to find some rear shocks that were the right length and have the right ends. They're 6" shorter overall than the factory ones which means I can lower it more, and not have to worry about the springs becoming uncaptive. I did need to try and figure out the spring rate though. I got a single piece driveshaft made. I got so many different opinions on this vs two piece that it ended up coming down to money. If I got a one piece made, which I had both ends for, it was going to cost similar to getting the S13 one lengthened and a different flange(?) put at the diff end. So by getting a single piece made, I ended up selling the S13 one complete for $100. I've tidying up the battery relocation so that it's all bolted down proper. It has a kill switch on the top of the battery box, as well as a 120amp circuit breaker. I also put a single kill switch on the injectors, ecu and fuel pump. I'm picking a trailer up on Wednesday next week so I can take it to work and get the alignment set up a bit better. I'll have to do it again eventually but I need to get the track and everything sorted with the T3 rear arms and the camber, caster, toe at the front. I bought a driveshaft safety hoop from BNT. $72 trade. So even though it was a little more expensive than trademe, at least I'm supporting the business's that are in Rotorua. Will probably put this in when I have it on the hoist at work next week. I reassembled all of the dash and tidied up all the wiring the last owner left sprawled everywhere. Stereo wiring is going to be a bit of a drama, but I now have a 2 volume edition of the workshop manual. It's so much better having a hard copy than using one on a computer. I put all the front panels and lights back together. I didn't realise how rough the body is. Not sure what I'm going to do about that yet. I'm going to ring a guy in Papamoa who does certs and see if is able to do my car, if so, I've got a few questions but will look into booking it in with him in about a months time once the exhaust has been done. I'm so not looking forward to this. I'll probably put it on the ground on Monday and see if it'll move under it's own power. I haven't checked the clutch yet 'cause the rear is up on ramps. Sorry for lengthy worded posts, I'm not good for photos at the moment, I type this after the garage is shut up, and when I'm working on it, I don't want to take photos. I'll try update with some photos tomorrow night. For now though, a quick photo of the wiring in the glovebox, I'll probably end up cutting a piece of perspex or something to go in front of it to protect it:

I've just found this in the MSNZ rulebook:

Ah yep, I don't have a tray so I was just thinking of using two bits of angle and then the same style steel clip thing.

Ah yep, I don't have a tray so I was just thinking of using two bits of angle and then the same style steel clip thing.

Following on from the neutral switch. The wire colors don't match my loom. But one thing I found strange. On the manual ECU, pin 35 G/O is an output to ground via the neutral switch. On the auto ECU, pin 35 G/O is an input to the ECU from the neutral switch. On my one, the ignition input is split off to this pin 35 giving it a constant signal when the car is on. Could this be why the auto ECU works, but the manual doesn't? Is it possible that on the manual, the fuel pump relay is earthed through the neutral position switch on start up? It seems unlikely, but I don't know. Or am I exploring the wrong area altogether?

Fuel pump wiring has been completely replaced. All new wires, relay and fuse so there are no resistors in the circuit. As far as I can tell, all the grounds are grounded, this was checked with a test light. In this car the starter is controlled directly off the ignition I think. It will crank regardless of ECU, even if it's not plugged in, and once it's started, it doesn't die. I'm looking into the neutral switch on it now, although the wire color doesn't match the diagram so I'm not sure whats going on there.

Would that prevent the ECU from being able to keep the engine running if I hard wire the fuel pump? Or does that just stop the fuel pump running.

The fuel pump did yes, but it won't start, or stay running. Most of the automatic related stuff (I've sinced discovered) has been removed from the loom.

I have checked all of the grounds on the ECU and everything is grounded. Unfortunately, I think that means I just have two faulty ECU's.

Cheers, sorry, the diagram isn't very good. I'm not an electrician. The two top lines are +12 constant in. The bottom right is to the fuel pump. The bottom left is the ECU's switchable ground. I believe the switchable ground is where the fault is. Is it possible there is an ungrounded black wire, or do I have two faulty ECU's?

I'm having trouble with the fuel pump in my S12. Firstly, specs: S14 SR20DE S14 WA ECU (Manual) S14 DE fuel pump Some custom wiring. So, the problem: I wired it all up, but the ECU will not control the fuel pump. It will start and run if I hard wire the fuel pump so it's constantly running, but I don't want this as a permanent fixture. I have tried two different manual ECU's, and they're are both the same. Can anyone tell me what I'm doing wrong? It's the only thing I need to sort and then the wiring is all finished proper. Its wired like this: This is the ECU pinout. Thanks, Chris

Cheers, I've replaced the strap with a proper steel buckled ones that you use for tie downs. I'll make a plan to get it bolted down properly.

Does the battery have to be clamped down inside the battery box in the boot. Battery box is bolted down with four m6 bolts and big washers. Lid is held on by a strap. This ok, or must I change?

I'm interested in hearing the response to this. If T3 can do something, I may be keen to get one chucked in with your order if you buy off them? I've already got the S12 4-link kit off them but didn't know that having all rose joints could 'cause an issue.

Hey Clint, just following up on the spacer/adapter article you just posted. On the back of my S12 I have 15mm spacers. The wheel nuts that come with them are only 10mm long. Which with the rules is too short. Something a little larger might stick past the face of adapter. What I want to know, can I use wheel nuts that stick out past the face of the adaptors if my wheels have holes between the stud holes?

Yes, but for the sake of 5mm, no, that's a huge hassle. I thought I had played with doing this a while a go and I couldn't get it to sit right. I may have been doing it wrong though, I'll have another play and see how it moves. Edit/// Excuse my stupidity on the above question and these comments... I went and had a proper look and a play, and flyingbrick, you are right, the adjustable arms give me the adjustment I need them to. I don't know why I didn't think they did, but they do.

If my S12 had a factory rear swaybar, am I going to have cert issues with it no longer having one because of putting a Hilux diff and adjustable 4-link arms in, or is this something that'll get overlooked because it's not obvious it had one? Also, am I allowed to run a 25mm spacer on one side, and a 15mm on the other to get the rims sitting evenly? Diff isn't quite central and I don't want to have to cut and weld the brackets again if I don't have to. What are the details with battery relocation? Kill switch and circuit breaker all good? Minimum cable requirements, how they're allowed to be joined in the engine bay, how the box has to be held down etc.