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spiderwebfx

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Everything posted by spiderwebfx

  1. Woo, more stuff. Good and bad.... So the good. Had the windows tinted. Has made it much cleaner looking. Excuse bad photos. Fitted up front lip. (Fitment isn't 100% due to slightly warped guard.) Looks so much coooolleerrr. Swapped factory engine mounts back in. No more vibrations through the car anymore. Note to self, for street driven car, do not put polyurethane engine mounts in. And the bad Took it for a drive to Tauranga last weekend. All good, or so I thought. Lifted it up on the hoist at work to do a quick check over on everything and oh good lord, fluid everywhere. Rear gearbox seal and front pinion seal on diff are leaking terribly. And I've blown the left rear shock. So, back home and on stands again. Seeing as I had to pull the diff out, I decided to replace the crown wheel and pinion so I can get my rev and speedo to more friendly. So managed to track down a 3.5 Hilux diff, bought that. I've got a drivetrain specialist swapping the crown wheel and pinion to my current LSD centre, tightening the LSD a bit more and giving it a freshen up with new bearings and seal/s. Should be perfect afterwards. While it's in pieces, I got the axles checked to make sure there was no runout as one of the brake rotors was grinding on the caliper. No issues there so I think my caliper is a few mm to close to the hub, so I'm getting new brackets cut out as well to improve that. So it's in pieces, random photo for the sake of another photo. I've still got to take a shock out to send to Autolign so they can match it with some damper adjustable Bilstein ones. Also had to go through and pull my drivers door apart to get the window out as one of the plastic guides for it had fallen off. Thankfully I had a complete parts door I was able to pull apart first to see how difficult it was. (Turns out it's easy as shit.) Factory plastic guide had a crack through it so it had come loose. Put the one from the parts door in, and it's perfect. And because we were working on it late one night, group photo at my work! Once the diff is back in, I'll take it somewhere nice to get a couple of decent photos of it. I haven't managed to take any proper ones since it's been road legal.
  2. Will vouch for Matt also. /Edit My god, didn't realize this was a few weeks old. Apologies.
  3. Yep, still here. Been out in it a few times now. People love staring at the car.
  4. Car passed cert. Ended up getting the factory shocks shortened and putting them in, also lifted it a little bit. Cert plate showed up yesterday, passed wof and got rego. So as of yesterday the car is road legal. Had some little rust spots tidied up on just to smooth it off. Now that I'm driving it I've find a few little bits that I need to tidy up. There is a hole where the factory handbrake lever was thats letting hot air through, one of the springs is knocking in the back under load, not sure why and I want to put factory engine mounts back in. The polyurethane ones in it now cause everything to vibrate so much.
  5. Well car failed cert. Pretty small list in all honesty, but one of them is possibly a big job. No spring washers on engine mounts. (Easy fix) No rear bump stops. (I thought the were on the shaft of the shock) Rear suspension is too hard. Upper 4-links touching on chassis. So the last 3 are really all hand in hand with each other. The car still feels a little bit like you sitting on bump stops. I'm wondering if a lot of this is too do with the 4-link arms being rose-jointed as opposed to the factory arms having bushes. So my plan, too lift it a bit higher, find different shocks for the rear... again... that also have bump stops on the shaft. Hopefully this will sort the whole 3 things out. I lifted it tonight, about 15-20mm. It's given heaps more clearance underneath so that, combined with bump stops will fix the upper 4-links from touching the chassis and hopefully, improve the ride quality so it's suitable. Certifier will be back in Rotorua week after next so I'll get it done by that and then see how I go again.
  6. That was meant to say now putting on the market...
  7. No photos just quick update. Was doing some little maintenance things on the car. One of which involved fixing 4 leaks in the intake system. Once that was done, the car wouldn't run or idle or anything anymore. Went through so many different things trying to fix (injectors, CAS, replacing AFM, fuel pressure/fuel pump) turns out the guy I bought the motor off gave me the wrong AFM. (I bought one with the same part number) $40 later I had the right one and it runs primo. Replaced rear springs with 5kg rears. Looks like I had 8's in it which is why it was so hard riding. and big news; Cert booked for next week. nearly 7 years and it's almost legal.
  8. Quick update on this. Ended up getting some Tein 5kg rear springs. They made a HUGE difference. Looks like I had 8kg springs all round, which was most of the problem. I'm still waiting for some shocks to arrive to match my front ones. Once they show up I'll be getting some Tein 7kg springs to put in the front as well. That way the shocks match and the springs match.
  9. Nope. She bought another car. We're now putting it on the market.
  10. Thanks for all your guys feedback. I'm going to put the hunt for springs on hold and try find some rear shocks that are more suitable to the car. Based on your guys feedback, I think that is the best place to start.
  11. Definitely sounds like it still has compression. I've turned it over with and without spark plugs in and there is a huge difference.
  12. Cheers man, I appreciate the input. I've managed to get spark, so i've now eliminated that as well. Guess next step is checking what you've mentioned. Otherwise, I'll call it quits on trying to fix and get her to take it to a mechanic instead.
  13. No alarm system / immobilizer and it died while driving.
  14. Have removed a fuel line and turned key which pumped fuel out. This was the first thing I checked. I couldn't get spark plugs or leads to spark when held against a ground and 'start ya bastard' wouldn't ignite.
  15. Hey I may be interested in the 4.6kg nismo ones. I'll have a look tonight and get back to you.
  16. Ahh sweet that's easy enough. So if I get a signal/pulse from it, in theory the coils, all leads and/or all plugs are buggered. If it doesn't, it's most likely ecu or there's been a break in some wiring. I have already found some coils at a local wrecker so if it's those I'll pick them up tomorrow.
  17. This bit has confused me slightly. Could I not just turn ignition and see if a signal goes through the potential 3rd wire? Do they have to be bridged? Sorry not 100% confidential on electrical bits. I have just gone and got a led test light to be able to check it. Was planning to get one anyway.
  18. Cheers for the help. I'll play with the shocks a bit more when I have the car at work and can drive it around the back yard. Rear shocks aren't adjustable at all but they probably don't help as they're 4x4 shocks.
  19. Ok. I will have a look at that tomorrow. It's a bit dark now and can't see anything. Will report back here with the results. Thanks for your help so far.
  20. Yep, all are populated. 3 matching wires on each one. Then 1 different color on each. Brown(thick), black/white(thick), black/yellow(thin) Then red/blue on one and white/red on the other.
  21. There is two. Each has a 4 pin plug and then 2 ignition leads. One is for cylinders 1 and 4, other is 2 and 3. They look like this:
  22. Tested. I got a pulse through them. Does that eliminate crank and cam angle sensors?
  23. Cheers, will test that now. Is it as simple as unplugging injector and connecting the test light to a pin on the plug? Or is it better to do it while the injector is still plugged in?
  24. Flatmates car broke down yesterday. She was coming down a hill, engine light come on, and then when the car came to a stop at a roundabout, died. Was probably two minutes between starting it and it dying. 1998 Toyota Caldina ST215G | 3SFE | Auto Appears the motor has no spark but I cannot pinpoint why. Is it possible that the two coils have gone faulty at the same time? Is there a fail safe where it won't start if one is faulty? Pretty sure leads and plugs are on the way out, but I wouldn't of thought that this would stop it from starting it all. 'Start ya bastard' does not help it to fire. Faults pulled from bridging OBD2 plug terminals: 21 (O2 Sensor), 24 (Air temp sensor). Air temp only showed up since battery was disconnected, was not there straight after it stopped. (These descriptions may be wrong, I could only find fault codes for OBD1 plugs. If so, let me know what they actually are) Some multi meter tests I've done to get to where I'm at now: Cylinders 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 Injector Resistances (ohm) 14.6 | 15.5 | 14.5 | 18.4 Lead Resistances (ohm) 4.2 | 3.3 | 3.1 | 2.21 Compression Test 210 | 220 | 210 | 220 Is there a way to test if the coils are fried? Sorry it's not oldschool. I'm struggling to find any help through Google and am not registered on any Toyota forums.
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