spiderwebfx

54 minutes ago, Kiwibirdman said:

Dumb question, why not trim the lower shock mount to fit the car? 

Expensive coilover shocks going in so he doesn't want to modify them.  (Running the shock and spring seperately though.)

I don't think this is too big a deal, but just double checking on behalf of a mate (he can't get in touch with the local certifier in Whangarei to ask)

S12 Silvia with H190 solid rear axle.  He's changing the shocks on it to something else and the lower bush is wider than the factory one.  Is it ok to cut the existing u shaped bracket off the diff, and then make a new one (out of 3mm folded plate steel?) and weld it on?  The spring is run separately so is not load bearing as far as that goes.

Bracket in question:

2 minutes ago, igor said:

...and, at least back in the '90s when I had a truck, the cof test was a lot harder/more intensive than a wof;.

Far more intense than a wof.  And you are extremely limited to where you can take it too.  Normal mechanics can't do COF's and even most commercial mechanics don't.

In our experience Isuzu is one of the better quality brands for smaller trucks. (Commercial tyre outfit)

Mitsi's are pretty reliable too but they tend to get real gutless as they get older.

Class 1 car license is suitable for up to 6 tone GVM so you should be fine from that aspect.

Make sure you are 100% certain that the truck is not subject to COF instead of WOF.  COF is every 6 months, regardless of age of the truck and costs more.

Commenting to sub, don't know how to do it otherwise.

53 minutes ago, Yowzer said:

I have seen different brand tyres (cannot recall the brands sorry) that despite being the same printed size, one had flat sidewalls, one looked like it was running mega stretch, when mounted to the same rim. These were some low pro 19"s though, probably don't have that particular faux stretch style available in a size as small as you want.

This would be a similar case in this size also.  I did some research through our suppliers and found about 10 different brands that do the size.  I can possibly look through the technical data of some of them to see which of them is the skinniest.  @dspec_tt131 let me know what brand and pattern you've currently got and I can do some comparisons.

46 minutes ago, dspec_tt131 said:

I have 205/60 but it's too bulge. Will try different offset wheels instead.

Ah right, the only 195 that can go on a 7.5" rim is the 195/45R14 which Falken do bring into NZ.  That's a huge height drop though.

On 20/01/2020 at 08:56, dspec_tt131 said:

Where can I find tyre manufacturers specs for maximum width allowed? Have tried google but no luck. Looking for a 195/65/14 that's allowed on a 7.5" rim 

The range on the LVVTA guide includes the maximum and minimum of the major tyre brands. 

I.e. If Hankook had a 195/65R14 good for 5" to 6.5" but then Toyo has 5.5" to 7" the range allowed would be 5" to 7"  (Example only)

Falken were the only brand to have there product range outside of the normal specs from other brands, but they've since reigned that in and are now on par with everyone else.

Unfortunately you're best bet is to go to a  205/60R14.

It's all good, I managed to convince the seller to drop it off for me.  Thanks for the offer though.

Hey guys, I'm in the process of bidding on a small bbq on trademe, and am hoping someone would be able to pick it up and drop it off at Beaurepaires on Parumoana St for me?  It'd easily fit into the boot of a car.

Auction ends on Tuesday.  Ideally I'll flick through the funds to you so cash can be paid for it on pick-up.  Will obviously pay for your time also.

Thanks guys

I can also help you out if you get stuck, just PM me.

In terms of keeping it legal, refer to this sheet; https://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/infosheets/LVVTA_Info_01-2009_V3_Tyre_Size_to_Wheel_Size_Compatibility_Guide.pdf

Based on that, you'll need at least 195's on the 7's, and 205's on the 7.5's.

6.95-14 size is the equivalent of 205/60R14 and 185/70R14.  

185/70R14 is common as and easy to get but probably not quite wide enough for them.

205/60R14 not as common, but would fit nicer. You won't get cheap china-spec tyres in this size I don't think.  

If you want slightly bigger than factory, a 195/70R14 could also be a good option.

Really; they're all 'balloon' spec tyres and it's going to be hard to get an idea on how they'll sit on the rims without trial fitting which most tyre shops aren't interested in doing.

Ah, sorry, when people say trailer wheels I automatically assume galv steel wheels; (these can now be sourced in 5x4.25/108 stud pattern)

This is probably deemed off-topic now though.

2 hours ago, Rustysills said:

Great , thanks for all the advice. 

Just trying to work out if the trademe ones above listed as 'trailer' wheels are gonna be ok for the time being or if I should hold out for another pair to come up. 

 

Wouldn't recommend it.  'Trailer' wheels don't typically spin as true as what a proper wheel should.  We get the cheap ones through work all the time, and some of the quality is pretty pathetic.  For a garden trailer yup all good. I wouldn't put them on a car though.

205/60R13's would be fine if you keep the 13x6's.  Reasonably easy to get as well.  If you move to the 13x4.5's try aim for a 175/70R13.  They'll look a bit too wide for them, but they do legally fit on and are common as.

All good man. Glad you got it sorted.

Yeah that doesn't worry me.   I'll work out the cost and availability and message you tomorrow. How many do you need? 

I've got access to them through my work. (I work in a tyre shop)  I can call and check availability on them tomorrow morning.  I don't mind getting them in and freighting them to you if you can't source locally to you.

Following on from Joker above, would these ones be right ?
https://www.patchrubber.co.nz/product/1505-6mm-small-bore-valve-45-bend

36 minutes ago, AllTorque said:

Reverse lights are not needed for a wof 

Is it one of those if they are there, they have to work things?  Like a spare wheel, if it's there, it has to be bolted down.

"Static" or Center Balance will mean you have one lot of stick on weights in the center of the wheel instead of on the lips.  It can still 'cause a slight shake BUT this is only in severe cases.

Most balance machines also have "MAG" or "ALU" mode which involves clip on/hit on the inside and stick on anywhere between the centre of the rim and the outside lip depending on which setting is used.  A bit better than Static balance but typically required more wheel weights than static or standard balancing.

Other things to keep in mind if you haven't had the vehicle long.

The tyres on it may have been bought used with uneven wear.  
The alignment may have been done recently, and has since had a slight knock in the rear.  (unlikely but definitely possible)

Until you start wearing your current tyres out it's hard to know exactly whats going on.  Lowered Commodores do have a tendency to wear inner shoulders of their tyres, especially on the rear.  

Also, when buying tyres for this next time, try stick to non-directional or directional options.  This will give you the ability to flip them further down the track.  Asymmetric tyres can't be flipped legally.  Also, keep an eye on them, flip them BEFORE they are smooth on the inside shoulder, otherwise the tyre shop is just going to tell you they're fucked and need replacing.  (Assuming they do still wear uneven again)

Nope, got any more info on it? Looks like an old pic.

That is sso coool