SOHC

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

3K for a motor is a bit steep, you could get a basket case for that price, I wouldn't own one later than a 1973.

Yes find some pics of the 1958 chopper plese

The gear change is on the other side aswell on the ealy bikes,

I got a 1974 XLCH very cheep, I was prittey stoked, I will poast a pic of it soon, its probley the most easy bike to get parts for I have ever had, I rebult the gearbox and fitted a TROCK gearbox trap door and Barnett clutch, also bashed out the inside of the mufflers.

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

No there not a shovle head, the cut out in the rocker box is called the texas notch

Who has an Ironhead sporster? I see a group of 5 or 6 people riding round west auckland quit often, and have been seeing a few in town, I think there popular again. I wouldn't go far on mine with out a surgical ring cushion tho.

Poast some pics if you have any

I had a PW80, I got it when I was about 10, I will have to dig out the photos, I sold it when I was 14 and got an 1983 Honda XL250R witch I still have 16 yers later,

I pulled the Honda apart and posted it in 6 boxes to Wellington, bolted it back togeather at uni and used it everyday

if using LPG as you gas, why can one use compressed air ( from rattly in the corner ) as your oxygen supply, then use oxy/axcetylene gear ?? would save renting bottles.

Yes and no, industrial furnaces use natrual gas and a blower, it wouldn't work with your gas welder tho

you might buckle and warp your panels if you used an LPG burner to heat your gurds, the flame is quit big. A normal oxyacetylene welding set up can be adaped to use lpg by counter sinking the tip holes a bit, even the cutting torch, its not as good as acetylene tho.

I do alot of steel,bronze,copper work and have made 2 home made lpg burners witch are 20 times better than anything you could buy, they will heat up big chunks of steel to a dull red in to time

they make cool looking choppers, those luftmeister exhausts look ugly but nothing elce seems to work better,

There is a guy on the NZHRA hot roding one of those vans,

Don't have any photos but I blew the gearbox on a Yamaha XS 650, a dog broke off one of the gears and jamed inbtween 2 other gears, every gear had at least 1 tooth broken off and both shafts were bent.

also my BMW R75 kitted with 900cc heads and barrles, all of the bolts witch old the flywheel broke, the thing was running when they let go and caused the exhaust valves to hit the piston.

Managed to fuck the bigend bearings on my Yamaha TT600 by doing wheelstands, rollerbearings don't like spinng as fast as plane bearing bottom ends.

about 11 hours of work I have compleatley rebuilt the front end, bushes balljoints and other bugged crap was replaced, there was a mint 240 at the wreckers and I got the whole strut, brakes ect, witch were nealy brand new, put a new set of bearings in them, and new-old backing plates disk cover things. its hard work bleeding brakes by yourself, I am hoping it will sought it self out tonight

I should go back and get the rear diff and brakes.

have you tried the volvospeed RWD forum? http://volvospeed.co...um/forum/7-rwd/

I've always found the appropriate FWD forum on VS a great source of info for my 850.

HTH

I am on the turbo bricks forum, they are being downers at the moment tho.

can some one please help me with this, I got some control arm bushes from the mount shop, the mount shop book sed there was a left and a right for some reson, one side was half a mm longer than the other and had a 1.5mm bigger flange.

you can see on thhis page PAT No# 39h007 and 39h008 https://www.mountshop.co.nz/PassengerDisplayProducts.asp?passenger=Y&displaymake=Y&SubGroup2=N&category=39&SecondSusp=Y&master_group=11&stock_subgroup2=73&sub_group=12#maincontent

Is this a fuck up in there book? or is it right?

http://www.belzona.c...111&language=UK

The more I think about this the better it sounds, it would save alot of money and time, its just an old shitter of a Volvo, and like you say it might out last the car.

if the motor is turning over with the way you have described you have put the lead to the + on the starter, if it was the other way it would just spark

Run another wire from the + on the battery to the + on the coil

I am in Auckland,

http://www.trademe.c...n-561862296.htm

this guy, Damian Trybula. has heaps of Volvo wagons and stuff like Super Snipes and BMC stuff, despite this he isn't a weirdo but a GC and in the trade.

Make contact and he'll send you the good shit.

I sent him a question asking if he had some, he is in wellington?

Not saying the loads are the same but I have done many shaft and housing repairs with belzona on electric motors.

Usually the process is:

Screw cut surface

Smear on belzona in copious amounts

Machine to std size

But the guides and packaging describe its use as per my first post.

It's great for insulating bearings on motors ( like, more KW than a car size) suffering from EDM and stuff.

Iv also done shit tonnes of metal spraying using a type of sintered bronze powder... Prefer belzona personally since you add no heat.

Sorry, I'm rambling

II will rember the name of that stuff for next time I find a loose bearing, alternators allways seem to have lose bearings, it might be good to use there.

Are crank shafts still as strong when they have been metal sprayed?

Cool thank you, I will talk to Durty,

I hate to think they would cost new, I spent $260 on bushes today and that was at trade price from the mount shop.

BELZONA 1111 sounds pretty good but I don't think it would hold out on an axle, its only a 3 thou gap, maby maby as a last shot resort I would use it

I am so depressed right now

I would say the unknowns would make me just flag reusing them and get replacement ones.

I guess the easiest way to know if you can remove and replace the shaft is to post a photo of the stub but I can't say I've ever seen replaceable shafts before - it's normally a fit and forget dealio.

I will take a photo now and put it up, looks to be part of the bottom strut. things were going too well for me with this car

If it's gone blue it may have hardened the stub axle and made it brittle - but if that proves not to be the case metal spraying is the only solution - but it needs machining down afterwards obviously.

It would have done the opposite and made it soft, I am not sure about metal spraying and stub axles, I have been told that's a no no.

is it posable to remove them from the strut or are they part of it?

My daily drive 81 Volvo 245 GLE was making a clunking sound from both front wheels, and there was play in the bearings but when I pulled it all apart it had spun the inner bearings and worn into the axle shaft and turned it blue.

What would cause this? is there anyway to fix it with out replacing the stubs? they are part of the strut. anyone got any? I need to get this done before Monday