SOHC

burning of any fossil fuel generally results in incomplete combustion,

so you are basically burning the wood to release unburnt gas (likely methane etc?)

which in turn you are running the vehicle on.

with a petrol engine the overall fuel efficency may be only 40% so the other 60% is being lost as heat/vibration/noise and unburnt fuel (escaping out the exhaust),

what a lot of people are trying to do is recapture the un used energy by altering both the running conditions of the vehicle and recycling the fuel laden exhaust gases.

Dam thats a good idea , you wouldn't even need to turn your engine off at all

can someone explain it please : are you basically running it on the smoke from the fire?

something I dont get :/

To put it in a simple way the wood is being burned with little air in a controlled environment, when you see wood burning in a fire the flames are the gas burning, the gasafire collects that gas.

Light a wooden match; hold it in a horisontal position; and notice that while the wood becomes charcoal, it is not actually burning but is releasing a gas that begins to burn brightly a short distance away from the matchstick. Notice the gap between the matchstick and the luminous flame; this gap contains the wood gas which starts burning only when properly mixed with air (which contains oxygen). By weight, this gas (wood gas) from the charring wood contains approximately 20% hydrogen (H2), 20% carbon monoxide (CO), and small amounts of methane, all of which are combustible, plus 50 to 60% nitrogen (N2). The nitrogen is not combustible; however, it does occupy volume and dilutes the wood gas as it enters and burns in an engine. As the wood gas burns, the products of combustion are carbon dioxide (CO2) and water vapor (H2O).

the theory of gasification is quit complicated you would have to do alot of reading

Ahaha, oh man.

This is why I <3 OS, I cant think of any other forum etc where there would be a thread about running a car on wood.

If your realy keen you could hang out on the woodgas forum

Just saw this old thread, I have been playing round with wood gas for a wile, I am bulding MK2 at the moment, MK1 was powering an old falcon with a stratified gasifier with no filters or cooler, the engine crapped out after a wile. here are some pics of my Imbert system, still need to do a heap of welding, I formed the cone in the middle from 12mm plate. making the cooler and condensation trap at the moment, need to find a new car to run it on

By rudolphtec at 2012-02-22

By rudolphtec at 2012-02-22

By rudolphtec at 2012-02-22

By rudolphtec at 2012-02-22

By rudolphtec at 2012-02-22

By rudolphtec at 2012-02-22

I drove from Osaka to Hiroshima on a Sunday and there was non stop classic car club runs, never seen so many VW beetles in one go

When I was 18 I had 6 triumph 2500s at difrint times, cost about $40 or 50 to fill it, they were not bad on the petrol, for the weight of the car, i rember if you gave it full throttle the black smoke and soot comming out the exhaust was funny, would leave a shit stain on the wall.

more details of your volvo? am guessing it's a 240 series? colour looks to be the same as my old one.

Its a 1981 240 GLE, its very sun bleached on the roof, the whole exhaust system dropped off and the plan was to put some extractors and a coby on it, some wite wall flappers.

It might be your old one? did iy have a 3 digit number plate?

problem there is all glasspacks used to be made at multiform in vickery st,

and were subsequently quite a good product,

now they're made elsewhere/inhouse and just don't seem to last.

my mate ricky served his apprenticeship building them at multiform.

i stlll get him to make my resonators.

I had a cople old Cobys witch would be about 25-30 years old witch still had glass in them, the last 3 I have bought the sound changed over only a few KMS

I made some extractors today from some cheep u bends I round on trademe, what a mission, they work very very well,

did the noise level double in that time?

Coby is better than a straight pipe, I tried that

Are you just running glasspacks or actual mufflers also?

PS a glasspack won't last long - I would expect 6-12 months max..

Just the glass packs

Hello

I was wondering how long a Coby glasspack resonator will last? I put 2 on my volvo about 3,000 miles ago, it was very quiet but it has been getting louder and louder since, was wondering if it was a dud and is blowing out the glass? its one of the super cobys with the chamber, hot dog style.

Would project cars witch arn't running with lapsed rego still count? someone I know is trying to make a living selling half finished project cars

I wonder if they can sandblast it to cut it?

also keen to hear about getting flat glass cut.

want to do a roof chop on morrie, but price may be a factor.

can exizting toughened glass be cut?

I have rung a few glass places and they reckon $50+GST per window for a laminated or toughened, its probley well worth giving the morri a roof chop.

No you carn't cut toughened glass, the whole thing will explode,

What about using Polycarb for the windows? easy to cut with a jigsaw to shape. I can supply the polycarb if wanted.

Hello, thanks for the offer, I was thinking of using something like that but I would realy like to have glass so it dosn't scratch

maybe you could straighten your frame and cut glass to suit? i can see straigtning frame to suit glass possibly being quite a difficult thing to get just right.

Nar its just out a bit in the corners, if i slid the new glass into place it would flex to the right shape, its very flimsy, I need something to go off.

If it's going to be on a tourer it will need to be toughened, Sharps autoglass here in Wellington are making me one at the moment. All credit to then but they aren't the sharpest in the world (no pun intended)

If you make up the cardboard templates first that's the hardest part of the job done

How much is it going to cost for your window? yer I was going to try to find some with a patton as one of the frames is wonkey

Who in Auckland could make a custom flat glass windscreen for a vintage car? it a 2 peace window like louvers on a house, it would need to be some kind of safety glass I would say

I had simmler problem with my Subaru , it was a jammed thermostat, it also ran hot, Subaru are chronic for air locks in the cooling system, they are very hard to get out.

Probably not your problem but something to be aware of.

there is one ball bearing missing from one of the races

Are you sure there is one missing or is there just room where one more to fit?

I have always been told that with loose ball set ups you fill the race with however many balls fit then take one out to leave a gap so the balls are pressed against each over or something to that effect..

I could fit 2 more in, but like you say its good to leave a gap or they won't work,

I fixed it, that spacer was jammed in the wrong place, made a new shim for the bottom plate and it seems to work fine now, thank you all for the links with the photos.

Super cheep has copper oil pressure gauge line with the gland nuts and tails soldered on ready to go if your missing the fittings.

Have a look here http://www.vintagebus.com/ under the Parts section of a kombi page 255 if you need more details or other parts

I will try and dig out the rebuilding section - such as tolerances and stuff.

Cool thank you, I can just make out in that diagram the spacer isn't there, I will report back tomorrow with my findings.

Pretty much my feeling, the way a steering box behaves on the road is different to on the bench. I would check everything over again and use the prescribed method- ie consult actual VW manual before proceeding.

I would hate for another splitty to end up wrecked because of a steering seizure..

The top cap being rubbed by the peg tells me there isn't enough shims TBH

Yes I will try to find a exploded diagram to see where everything goes, and do the final ajustments with it in the car.

The top cap has been rubbed cause someone shoved that spacer in there