SOHC

generally the front brake sleeve size is bigger for disc brakes..

Did you miss this bit mate? Even though the rear port may have a residual pressure valve , chances are that the bore of the master cylinder is stepped, so you will run into issues.

same size bore right down,

I can't think of a reason why not.

Or

The residual pressure valve should be easy enough to remove, you could swap which port it is in.

That is an option but I would have to destroy the valve I think

I've owned hot rods and worked on cars for a good 20 years now and can't say I have ever come across a drum front, disc rear setup.

It MAY work, but something in my head just screams WAIT! - I think the only way you will get a decent brake pedal out of this is if you do some calcs and get the master cylinder bore suited to the brakes.

Just chucking an HQ master cylinder on there seems like a bit of a stab in the dark to me.. It may work by fluke but the chances of it being right and getting a good brake balance is low..

But hey - I've been wrong before and will be wrong plenty more times before I die.. Would love to see how this works out.

Most people recommended me to use the HQ master cylinder as it is a good size for the old ford brakes, but yes disks on the back is a bit strange,

but no one can tell me should i cross over the brake lines?

I could tell you how it works out soon, but I broke my tube flaring tool

Are you running a booster? I think you may end up with brake balance issues here.

Nar the front drum brakes are self self energizing, don't need a booster. An adjustable proportioning valve fitted in the rear brake line will fix the balance issues

Here are my front brakes, 54 customline, there pritty big

By rudolphtec at 2012-04-20

So you have a jag diff with disc brakes and deuce front drum brakes...

Hmmmmm

I mean Juice as in hydraulic, Couldn't afford proper Ford Deuce Coup style brakes, but yer drums on the front and disks on the back, hope i can run the master cylinder with the lines going in revere.

The car originally had mechanical brakes, now they run on juice

is this going to be a road car? if so check with your certifier.

Its fine, alot of hotrods have Jag diffs and Ford Juce brakes still on the front

If your talking about a Triumph 2000 2500, it probably has worn big end and main bearings. my 72 and my 75 did this, put in some Moryes heavy duty oil stabilizer or Penrite 27 W 70.

Don't worry my 75 had a heavy bearing knock and low oil pressure and ran for years

Normally the rearmost port (closest to the firewall) is normally the front brakes..

I was wondering could I run it the other way round? as one port has a residual pressure valve, I want that line to go to my drum brakes

Hello

I am doing the brakes in a car I have been building for a wile, I have a Jag IRS diff with inboard disk brakes and 1954 Customline Drum brakes on the front, don't laugh. I have a Holden HQ master tandem cylinder, one port on the master cylinder has a residual pressure valve and the other dosn't

My question is can I run the line witch was originally for the HQ rear to my now front drum brakes?

SOHC,s Triumph's Post your questions here and they won't get deleted

The orange one I sold to a collector, the old owner had covered all the ally kick plates in tape to protect them, it was probably the best example I have ever seen.

As for the green one it was soo rusty it was not worth fixing, I sold all the others to people who I hoped would look after them.

After the crash I didn't want to drive them anymore.

Here are my old triumphs, the orange one was a mint 1978 2500TC I bought off the original owner, has power steering and original cross-ply tiers all round.

The green was a 1971 2000, I found those funny old mags and they fitted right on, later I also made some lake pipes, stuffed the motor revving it too hard, then I used it to shunt over small trees on the farm till it died

Also had a Teal 1976 2500 PI and a red 1975 2500 and a wite 1976 2500, and a brown 1972 2500, I seem to have lost the photos.

The teal one was my favorite, 1975 2500 I had the engine and gearbox rebuilt, everything witch unbolted off the block was chromed or polished, Coby exhaust system, brand new power steering rack. Sadley one day a drunken truck driver crossed the center line and smashed into me, busted my new auto trans in half, the motor is still sitting under a tree but is now fucked from lining on its side in the rain. I now think there shit cars and wouldn't own one, I must have been mental or something, I could of had bought a cool old falcon or an HQ Kingswood cheap as then for the same price.

viewtopic.php?f=18&t=33070 send complaints here

By rudolphtec at 2012-04-08

By rudolphtec at 2012-04-08

You should just fix the rust holes and leave the paint how it is, its patina .

someone I know found a Dodge with a flathead 6 and 3 on the tree, the engine was seized solid with age, pored some diesel down the plug holes and in 3 days it was running

Hello

I have a engine block and crank and rods witch I need to measure to see if it needs boring and grinding etc, I have a book with the specs and a bore gauge but I have no idea how to use it and its old as hell. I don't have a mic to measure the crank.

I am trying to do this motor up on the cheep

I can fit it all in the back of my car, if someone in auckland could help?

burning of any fossil fuel generally results in incomplete combustion,

so you are basically burning the wood to release unburnt gas (likely methane etc?)

which in turn you are running the vehicle on.

with a petrol engine the overall fuel efficency may be only 40% so the other 60% is being lost as heat/vibration/noise and unburnt fuel (escaping out the exhaust),

what a lot of people are trying to do is recapture the un used energy by altering both the running conditions of the vehicle and recycling the fuel laden exhaust gases.

Dam thats a good idea , you wouldn't even need to turn your engine off at all

can someone explain it please : are you basically running it on the smoke from the fire?

something I dont get :/

To put it in a simple way the wood is being burned with little air in a controlled environment, when you see wood burning in a fire the flames are the gas burning, the gasafire collects that gas.

Light a wooden match; hold it in a horisontal position; and notice that while the wood becomes charcoal, it is not actually burning but is releasing a gas that begins to burn brightly a short distance away from the matchstick. Notice the gap between the matchstick and the luminous flame; this gap contains the wood gas which starts burning only when properly mixed with air (which contains oxygen). By weight, this gas (wood gas) from the charring wood contains approximately 20% hydrogen (H2), 20% carbon monoxide (CO), and small amounts of methane, all of which are combustible, plus 50 to 60% nitrogen (N2). The nitrogen is not combustible; however, it does occupy volume and dilutes the wood gas as it enters and burns in an engine. As the wood gas burns, the products of combustion are carbon dioxide (CO2) and water vapor (H2O).

the theory of gasification is quit complicated you would have to do alot of reading

Ahaha, oh man.

This is why I <3 OS, I cant think of any other forum etc where there would be a thread about running a car on wood.

If your realy keen you could hang out on the woodgas forum

Just saw this old thread, I have been playing round with wood gas for a wile, I am bulding MK2 at the moment, MK1 was powering an old falcon with a stratified gasifier with no filters or cooler, the engine crapped out after a wile. here are some pics of my Imbert system, still need to do a heap of welding, I formed the cone in the middle from 12mm plate. making the cooler and condensation trap at the moment, need to find a new car to run it on

By rudolphtec at 2012-02-22

By rudolphtec at 2012-02-22

By rudolphtec at 2012-02-22

By rudolphtec at 2012-02-22

By rudolphtec at 2012-02-22

By rudolphtec at 2012-02-22

I drove from Osaka to Hiroshima on a Sunday and there was non stop classic car club runs, never seen so many VW beetles in one go

When I was 18 I had 6 triumph 2500s at difrint times, cost about $40 or 50 to fill it, they were not bad on the petrol, for the weight of the car, i rember if you gave it full throttle the black smoke and soot comming out the exhaust was funny, would leave a shit stain on the wall.

more details of your volvo? am guessing it's a 240 series? colour looks to be the same as my old one.

Its a 1981 240 GLE, its very sun bleached on the roof, the whole exhaust system dropped off and the plan was to put some extractors and a coby on it, some wite wall flappers.

It might be your old one? did iy have a 3 digit number plate?

problem there is all glasspacks used to be made at multiform in vickery st,

and were subsequently quite a good product,

now they're made elsewhere/inhouse and just don't seem to last.

my mate ricky served his apprenticeship building them at multiform.

i stlll get him to make my resonators.

I had a cople old Cobys witch would be about 25-30 years old witch still had glass in them, the last 3 I have bought the sound changed over only a few KMS

I made some extractors today from some cheep u bends I round on trademe, what a mission, they work very very well,

did the noise level double in that time?

Coby is better than a straight pipe, I tried that