SOHC

the Triumph PI pump would blow it self apart I was told because the electric part was sealed from the fuel part unlike a modden pump, fuel would seep in past the seals.

I had a 1976 Triumph 2500 PI about 12 yers ago, the main problem I had it was blody hard to get started when it was cold

Didn't the Royal have fancy stuff like AC?

Thats another copy of the Buick v8, but its like a 4.4 ltr

Yer and what is used to make solar panels and batteries is horrendous, you still have to mine silicon to make a solar panel,

Everyone is living a lie and in denial with eco cars.

Just think of all the energy and resources it takes to make a car, you would think scraping a going car to make a new one with more plastic and shit would be even worse.

Volvo predicted there 245 would last for 20.5 yers, 

The belair was acid etched till it was as thin as tinfoil then painted

I wouldn't own anything post 1985

you could pick up a rover 8v for like $500, edelbrock do an manafold for a 4bbl carb for them, they also come standard with aluminum tapit covers,

Its a coppy of a Buick 215, it was so shit they only made it for over 40 years

I am still yet to make it to one of the OS meets

Cool thread

 

My uncle owns this Bronze casting foundary in Auckland if thats of any use to anyone. Bronze piston munu lolz

 

www.artworkscasting.com

Is your uncle terry stringer?

slight aside, but does anyone know how much foundries charge to do something like a manifold in aluminium?

Depends if you have a patten witch is a very complex and very expensive thing, the casting isn't expensive.

Friend of mine got Masport to cast some reproduction cylinder barrels for a motorcycle, was $150 to cast but over $20,000 for the patten      

The green sad was from trade me but you can get it from http://www.metcast.com/ my aluminum was just scrap but I wouldn't recommend this as its cheep enough to buy the proper shit new

Red sand is the stuff anyone doing sand casting at home should look into, you can re use it if you pick off the burnt bits

I have some its easy to use, green sand you have to put water with it and its crumbly, I have 3 buckets of the stuff.

Kinda, but in reverse. Its like a CNC hot glue gun that squirts layers of molten plastic to create a 3D model

I see,  just looked it up on youtube,

Do they have any programs for making molds for casting car parts?

My friend got a 3d printer kit for $800, Haven't seen it yet, is a 3d printer like a cnc mill? 

if you buy one of those piss arse tank sealing kits i recommend getting the tank phosphoric acid diped at the strippers as the little bottle of acid they give you won't be enough

Here I am poring silicon bronze for some of my sculptures, the molded are dull red when i take them out of the kiln 

i dont know if its been covered or not but if your trying to get aluminum to flow into small areas or your mold is a little more complex you can heat the shell (mold) to around 2-300degrees to aid the flow and slow the cooling process. 

and once again it probably been covered but de-gassing tablets are key.

 

i really like casting as a process. its WAY harder than it looks and the skill required to make even basic shapes is pretty impressive. 

I would NEVER pore into a cold or damp mold, it will explode, I nearly lost my ear

I havent looked much at lost wax, but 5 days at 800c? wow! That second video i posted shows the dude melting out foam and PLA using his furnace at 1000 deg in a pretty short time. Didnt realise lost wax would take that long...

Quite keen to start my own casting soon. Just keen to do brackets etc for mounting super charger and things like that. Nothing too complicated (famous last words haha)

Where in NZ do you get your supplies from? and what did you use to make your furnace etc? I havent looked into where to get all the bits and pieces from in NZ to make the furnace and where to get the same etc. Also, how are you making up your plaster? I'm probably going to do a lot of lost PLA 3D printed parts as i'm too lazy/not skilled enough to make sweet mock up parts 3% bigger than they need to be so 3d printing seems like the easiest solution

I am doing it the old way they have been doing for 4000 years, there is a new way using molochite and sodium silicate to make the fire proof mold witch can be burnt out with a big LPG burner, its called ceramic shell casting, I have tried it but it was hard to get it to work.

If your making solid brackets you could use casting sand, I have dutch oil sand witch is very easy to use, or NZ green sand witch is a cunt to use but its cheep.

http://www.metcast.com/

They sell all the sands and refractory stuff, crucibles are cheep, around $30 for my 8 KG #A8,  furnace has cast refractory cement witch is expensive or you could use Kawool, all my hand tools and burner etc I have made.   

I recommend this website for ideas  http://backyardmetalcasting.com/

Looking at the video, they look like 1 use plaster moulds, so 1 way of doing it is you make the part out of something that can melt/burn (like PLA from a 3d printer) and cast it in some plaster. Then you burn out the part by putting it in your forge/furnace, which leaves a nice hollow complex part you can then cast.

You can also make a 2 part mould for that and put a plug in. So you make a solid version of the part, pack the mould in around it, split it and make a plug out of some sand etc to hang in the middle of it to create your hole. No idea if that makes sense lol.

How are you finding shrinkage? Quite keen to see how much you're getting on various parts. 3% seems to be a good rule of thumb, but i've obviously never done any casting myself so keen to hear from someone that has actually done so

EDIT;

just watch this;

and this

yes the shrinkage was about 3% it shrank about 3 mm, the places it mattered i built up with wax,  I am doing my molds lostwax style, it has a core. some times I have to use rods to support the core.

I have to fire the molds in a 44gal drum lined with kawool for about 5 days at 800 degrees c, witch uses nealy a full 45 KG LPG cylinder.

Then you can burn all the free waste oil you can get Going to be a babbitt oil burner?

it would have to be the oil from the Chinese takeaway or diesel. Babbitt burner? it would be made from steel and refractory cement

Yes its a piece of angle iron I made an ingot mold out of, I hold it over the flame to pre heat it, or it will spit the motlen metal in your face.

Been doing alot of bronze casting but want to do some cast iron, my home made naturally aspirated burner just isn't hot enough, going to make an oil burner.

thats me pouring the manifolds

Sweeeeeeet. What do you do your melting with/in? I'm looking at getting a crucible made for my induction furnace when the bits arrive from from the states

I have a home made furnace and home made LPG burner, my crucible is steel pipe, I would be keen to see your induction furnace

That's so cool!! Does any paint or impurities in the aluminum just float on top?

Yes it all goes to the top, then you scoop it off with with a piece of flat bar,