SOHC

I got it sorted, didn't need to shorten the shaft in the end, it was bang on the right size,

what kind of info do you have? I got a cople of zephyr boxes, I was going to rebuild one anyway

I had a falcon I put a 302 Cleveland, it would crank and fire then backfire through the carb and the engine would turn backward a cople turns, then it would run mint once it started.

The problem was the way the coil was wired up, there was a cranking circuit and a running circuit, the Cleveland's electronic dizzy clashed with the 6 cylinders ballast system.

Not saying this your problem but maby s

He was like a pirate with that matted beard and cigar, I see he still has some cars at another location in Penrose

Dose anyone know where i could find a book on line?

flexis are more for front wheel drive cars where the engine is mounted sideways ,transverse , there expensive to

Hello

I have a 4 speed zephyr zodiac gearbox I need to shorten the input shaft as I am fitting it to an earlier ford motor, I have unbolted the front bearing retainer, my question is if now I slide the input shaft out will the syncro fall apart and drop down inside the box?

Sorry to hijack your thread but I was wondering someone I know is building up a couple of cars he has put full cages in both of them, one cage is part of a a tube chassis and is just some random design and the other is welded to the original chassis

I told him you will probable never be aloud to put those cars on the road or even a track, they don't have much in the way of side intrusion bars, he thinks because the rego is on hold he can just go and get a wof when they are finished.

Can you have a full cage in a road car?

That looks real nice, You got the spark plug leads nice and neat,

I had a Falcon ute with lake pipes and a 302 Cleveland, lumpy cam, it was Honorably loud, then I got a 3" system with a flowmaster 50 series muffler witch sounded like crap not at all like a v8.

I reckon 2 X 2 1/4" system with glass pack mufflers with tail pipes pointing straight out the back.

right, my experience/opinions.

the rear wheels camber out and toe in something silly when its quite low and will chew through tyres alot quicker.

They do this badly anyway lol

Where is a good place in auckland to go to get a block de rusted?,

It was hot tanked a few times as it was full of black sludge and carbon, the water jackets are still full of crap, I had it pressure tested, a sleeve put in one bore and it decked. then it sat in the shed for a wile and it is covered in light rust everywhere.

Should it be dipped in some kind of acid?

It cost me $50 for 500 mls from that auto paint place in Henderson,

You have to work with your eyes shut when you do it like this.

A friend of mine had a 89 ZX300, He was doing something witch he called a plenum bypass, anyway the windscreen washer bottle got connected to the intake manifold by accident. It made a very loud bang, bent all the rods and damaged pistons and the crank

I had a valve seat come loose and a valve guide witch came loose in its bore, I center punched lots of dots round the seat to trap it in place, worked well, the loose guide I punched lots of dents in the guides bore and then hammered the guide back in, they never gave trouble after that.

For an old Honda XL250 motorcycle, witch had no compression, I fitted Suzuki GN250 piston rings witch I had to re shape by bending them, I ended up with a ring gap of about 3mm, the engine would run but only by roll starting but it went for ages.

The cylinder head was so cracked I had to peen the crack shut with a ball pain hammer and locktite the spark plug in

Thats a pretty cool project you have, the Chev and Ford Tudors are cool looking cars, do you have a front for it? they should be easy to find and cheep unlike the Ford parts of that vintage. did you weld a steel flange to that cast iron exhaust manifold?

Yeah, I have several complete front clips for it , well just choose the best of whats there, Yea it welded not to bad, I think its some kind of cast steel as opposed to Iron tho or some kind of blend as it sparks when you grind it unlike carst iron but its not like normal steel either

It looked like it welded quit well, it might be malleable white iron or something,

Holey crap the lobes have nealy gone, must have had no valve lift at all.

My folks 1981 Civic had the same problem

Did you let it sit for 7 days be for baking it?

No, the instructions didn't say that was necessary.

I did go over the top 6-2 section of the headers with a stripping disc and sandpaper to get off all the old paint and rust. I wasn't going to paint over this:

http://www.axys.co.nz/ben/rover/exhaustmanifoldcrusty_s.jpg

I'm sure I didn't do as good a job as sandblasting would have, but again the instructions didn't suggest I needed to. And it's not that the paint has flaked off (see silver paint in URL), it's just gone white.

No matter how good you cleaned it up the VHT red will crap out, I did a test on an old manifold witch had been acid dipped

Thats a pretty cool project you have, the Chev and Ford Tudors are cool looking cars, do you have a front for it? they should be easy to find and cheep unlike the Ford parts of that vintage. did you weld a steel flange to that cast iron exhaust manifold?

key seems to be super clean bare metal, need bead blast or something as prozac done, if isn't new steel. even then at least give it a sand or wire buff.

both manifolds look to have been painted over surface rust?

or the red stuff is just shit

I cleaned mine with sand paper and a wire wheel on the grinder, they recommended removing lose rust and oil on the can, I will do a test with whats left in the can and see what will work on the weekend

I had no luck with the red despite baking headers in the oven. My paint went white not black, and it also happened very fast. It's a lot worse than this now.

Thats interesting, the red must be the colour that doesn't work, I reckon it fails under 300 degrees , they clam much higher temperatures.

Did you let it sit for 7 days be for baking it?

Well they do an its expensive, but works well. Has to be prepped real well so if you go that way get them blasted

expensive is bad , extractors cost me $50 to make.

I painted a whole engine and gearbox and everything that was metal that bolted to the motor with that POR15 ford green once, they make good shit.

that paint works fine. even on turbo manifolds. but, you have to make sure the metal is super clean first, no rust just shinny metal. clean with solvent or soapy water to remove greasy crap. then give them 1 light coat, just enough to cover. thick coat will burn off. no need to let bake them of let dry for any length of time. just bang them straight on, the exhaust heat will bake it on.

i only use the flat black. have never used the red

cool thanks, Will try to touch them up in place with a fine coat and see if that works,

I rember I used the VHT wite on my falcon and it worked fine, but I think the wite goes to 3000 degrees and it got covered with black hand prints and shit.

That paint is shit, best ones I have used are the POR-15 heat proof paint, or the pot belly black stove paint (im sure there are others). Also did you prep those? cant just paint over rusty shit

I used some sand paper and the wire wheel on the grinder to prep it, Yes it is shit, normal lacquer would stand up to heat better than this,

didn't know POR 15 did an exhaust paint,

Hello

Was wondering if anyone else has had any luck with VHT paint? I don't normally bother with stuff like that. anyway I sprayed them in the shed with 3 coats, then they sat on the hotwater cylinder for 2 weeks, bolted them to the car and ran it for 5 minutes and they turned black, where did I fuck up?

By rudolphtec at 2012-06-05

By rudolphtec at 2012-06-05

By rudolphtec at 2012-06-05

By rudolphtec at 2012-06-05

By rudolphtec at 2012-06-05

You can transport up to 250 liters of gas with out any hassle from the law