Popular Post mikey Posted September 12, 2013 Author Popular Post Share Posted September 12, 2013 Golly gosh! Shit's looking dope. 25 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post mikey Posted October 3, 2013 Author Popular Post Share Posted October 3, 2013 OH WOULD YOU JUST STOP IT!! Stokedness is on MAXIMUM. 56 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikey Posted October 21, 2013 Author Share Posted October 21, 2013 I've been working away but it's not very interesting stuff. I've cleaned up all my wiring and mounted the fuse box and rebuilt all the heater stuffs. Dash is back in. The tacho is being a total vag so I'm ditching that stupid circuit and replacing it with a stepper motor at some point when I care enough. Replaced the rubber bits on the quarter windows. If things go really well I might be driving this on the weekend. There's still lots of things to do; some upholstery, put all the windows back in, door lock actuators, all the interior panels, indicators, seats & belts. Mostly a million little thingys. 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post mikey Posted October 28, 2013 Author Popular Post Share Posted October 28, 2013 So, I took this for a drive on the weekend. Still need to put a bunch of interior trim in, and go for a cert. It's dropped a cylinder somewhere in the last 5 months, hopefully that wont be a hard fix. 22 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post mikey Posted November 12, 2013 Author Popular Post Share Posted November 12, 2013 Being a shithead. So much rev-limiter! After the above hooliganism it was time for new tires and go a bit wider. The old ones were 225 60 R16, so I tried 255 50 R16 semi slicks, which looked baddass but they'd foul on the flares. So I think I'll try 245 50 R16, but can't get those semi's in that size so will have to just be a street tire. I'm still not sure they'll fit either, so I may have to go to a 235! There's bugger all options in 16x9.5 really. 30 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post mikey Posted November 14, 2013 Author Popular Post Share Posted November 14, 2013 HUZZAH! I've gotten my speedo working. Basically I stripped the guts out of the stock speedo and put two stepper motors inside, put a hall sensor next to a diff flange, then I made some electronic thingys to measure the speed picked up by the sensor and move the motors in the speedo. Like so... This is the motor I used for the odometer This is the type of motor I used for the needle This is not my car but I basically did the same thing as this, sensor picks up the capscrews as they fly past the sensor: My hack circuit board: The processor is a PIC16F628A and it has two ld239 motor divers (one for each of the motors). The sensor is a Honeywell 1GT101DC. It all works pretty well. I was a shocked as you! Today I also bought some smaller tires, R888 245/45/16, clearance is touch and go with the flares, fingers crossed. 10 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikey Posted November 19, 2013 Author Share Posted November 19, 2013 My tacho is working ZOMG! ProZac sent me a spare stepper motor and I happened to be off sick yesterday when the courier arrived so I spent the next three hours stripping the guts out of the tacho and replacing it with the stepper and the worlds simplest circuit board. I wrote a simple little program and she's a good un. Finally! 8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post mikey Posted May 30, 2014 Author Popular Post Share Posted May 30, 2014 I <3 Miley. 10 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post mikey Posted February 7, 2015 Author Popular Post Share Posted February 7, 2015 After taking this thing to the Taupo track and driving my brother-in-law's super sweet '69 911T, I realised it needs a bit of love. The track day went well buuuuuut, it's just kinda annoying to drive; it needs some finishing. I done a list: Install LSD Come up with a better front diff mount Convert from drums to disk brakes in the rear Seal filler neck Get alternator serviced (yet again) Move alternator to the left side of engine for better cooling Find more exhaust clearance Add some heat shielding to the firewall/tunnel to keep cabin temps sane Install carpet underlay So, today I removed the R180 VLSD, it's a Subaru thing and waaaay back on post numero ono I made the mistake of installing it. It puts the "slip" in LSD. So I have a some other CLSD thing which I'll get Steelie Gears to setup for me, I just have to source some 27 spline stub axles to suit Datsun half shafts (about $500USD, which is actually a lot cheaper than what it took to get the VLSD to work). While it's out I'm gonna change the way the front diff mount works. The factory setup sucks because it allows the nose of the diff to lift when you put the foot down and the whole car starts shaking because of the hinky uni-joint angles. It probably makes sense to convert to disks at the same time. I'm sure it's just me but drums seem awfully difficult to maintain and keep adjusted. I think I have all the bits I need to make this happen except some custom calliper bracket thing I'll have to make. These pics for fred are from when the car was in NZPC last year: 16 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post mikey Posted March 23, 2015 Author Popular Post Share Posted March 23, 2015 So I've ticked two pretty big things of ma list and I'm stoked with the result. I've finally got a good LSD in and the front diff mount is heaps better. This was the old front mount, it has some rubber between the two steel plates. But when you out your foot down the nose of the diff lifts as the rubber stretches, the angle of the driveshaft changes and the uni joints start hella shaking. So I made a jig CHOP Put some tube in there that was the right ID for some poly bushes. All ready to go back in I also had to get some fancy stub axles from the states which are 27 spline but have the Datsun bolt pattern. 27 Spline means I can run lots of more modern Nissan and Subaru diffs. So now i'm just like pulling 11's all round town.... 13 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post mikey Posted December 12, 2015 Author Popular Post Share Posted December 12, 2015 So yeah, the Oldschool drag day today was dope! I didn't do great times; worse than last year. But the LSD was sweet and I did 2nd gear skidz up the strip which was awesome. I was having so much fun I monged out and snapped an axle during my staging skid trying to grab 2nd gear. But as luck would have it I had some similar Datsun axles in my shed and managed to cobble together a complete axle, so I'm back up and running, JEAH! The one in the middle is the one I made out of the broken one and one similar to the bottom one. 19 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post mikey Posted December 20, 2015 Author Popular Post Share Posted December 20, 2015 After swapping in my new axle I was getting hella shakes around 70kph, so on Sunday I went in search of the cause and found I had two twisted side axles Butts. I'm not 100% sure if it's the cause but it can't be good and I'm not gonna piss about with it. So now I'm gonna convert to CVs and rear disc brakes while I'm at it. I have a plan for the discs but not so much for the CVs, I'm gonna track down some OEM side axles that're compatible with my diff and then some short axles and will have to make an adapter for my companion flanges. Here's a few radical photos MichaelJFox took from the drag day: 24 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikey Posted January 9, 2016 Author Share Posted January 9, 2016 I've been researching a new axle conversion, and have been collecting some parts. I've heard of people using these axles but not this combination before. This is where I'm at: On the right is the stock 240z axle with the twisted Wolf Creek R180 side axles. And on the left is the 4 cylinder D21 axle with factory inner CV and a VX Holden Commodore outer CV. The side axle is from an S14 I think and plugs straight into my R180 diff. If I measure the length from the side axle circlip groove to the outer face of the CV/UJ flange the stock axle is 489mm and the Terrano one is 458mm which means I have 31mm to play with without being any worse off. I had no binding issues in the past - i think, guys running R200 diffs might struggle thou. The Commodore CV is a knock off of a 108mm Porsche 930 CV, and they use it on the big heavy V8s so it must be solid. So now all I need to do is mate the Commodore CV to the 240z companion flange. There're two options: These adapters which are a measly $92USD Or these replacement companion flanges which are a whopping $700USD I'm trying to do this on the cheap so I'm going to order the adapters. I have the 240z 25-spline stub axles anyhow so the companion flange wont work, but if in future I upgrade to the 280z stub axles then it's an option. If this works out I've managed to convert to CVs for really cheaps: D21 Axles: $200 Commodore CVs: $60 Adapters: $200-ish YAY 8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post mikey Posted March 12, 2016 Author Popular Post Share Posted March 12, 2016 Well that worked out well! I've just been for the first ever hoon in this car with NO driveline vibration. 240z's are renowned for vibrations as the diff is set too far forward in the car so the axles have to bend in two axes; up-down and front-back. Datsun fixed this in the 260z by moving the diff farther back. So no amount of replacing UJs or making new diff mounts ever seemed to help. Until now! And I hate replacing UJs anyhow so it's great to get rid of them, and get a much stronger axle. There's a couple of little niggles; one of the old Commie CV's is leaking and a steel band popped off another. Also hard on the gas in tight left-handers I think something is interfering with the axle. 18 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post mikey Posted March 30, 2017 Author Popular Post Share Posted March 30, 2017 I've never loved the factory rear drum brakes; I could never adjust them properly so the handbrake would work, but not drag. So I decided to do something about and do it for basically nothing. I was given some EL Falcon single-piston callipers, rotors and backing plates years ago. The backing plates were drilled out to the 240z bolt pattern, but I still had the rotors to drill. I didn't want to drive all around the place looking for a friendly engineer so I cad'd up a template with the Ford and Datsun stud pattern, taped it to the rotor, centre punched and drilled. Came out radical. Started bolting everything up. The EL Falcon backing plate & rotor work perfectly with the backspacing from the 240z hub face, so the calliper simply bolts to the Falcon backing plate as normal. Then I pinched some longer flexible brake lines from Pick-a-part and made a bracket for the line. Neat! The handbrake bracket required some fiddle to bring it closer to the drum lever. Piece of piss. 21 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post mikey Posted September 17, 2019 Author Popular Post Share Posted September 17, 2019 Witchcraft! I just replaced the original fusebox with a new magical one from the future which isn't all hot and melty and gives me more than 9 volts at the headlights! Amaze. Represent. Another year of legality. And since all my thread images are poked, here's one so you and I don't forget what she looks like. <3 66 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post mikey Posted April 27, 2021 Author Popular Post Share Posted April 27, 2021 I've had a tiny amount of play in my rear wheel bearings so decided to rebuild my whole rear-end New CVs, bearings, aftermarket stub axles & companion flanges to take a 108mm CV. Old vs new stub axles. They have a larger splined diameter and are beefier at the wheel flange. This now shifts the weakest point in the driveline to my r180 diff, but it should be good enough for my engine. I also replaced all diff seals & o-rings so hopefully it stops leaving little puddles on the floor now. I couldn't get a micrometer inside the hubs to confirm, but I've assumed the play was from the bearing spacers getting overtightened and mushrooming slightly. So I cut some 0.05mm shims and torqued the hubs up and things feel right now. The left hub required two shims. Everything seems to measure up correctly and there's no play anymore. Rad! However. At this point I realised I have a problem. Since my new companion flange accepts a 108mm CV directly, I no longer need to run the CV adapter plate I used to use. This means my axles are now 25mm too short. FML. Cars aye! 35 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post mikey Posted May 9, 2021 Author Popular Post Share Posted May 9, 2021 Got some new axles made by Gearcutting Services and she's all go. 27 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post mikey Posted December 14, 2021 Author Popular Post Share Posted December 14, 2021 Rust aye? Am I right?! I found this little bubble of rust making party on the firewall next to the fuel reg. Awww noes The bit betwixt the firewall and this heater duct was chock full of factory seam sealer, it's pretty tricky to get to, so fair enough I guess. But all that seam sealer trapped water, leaves etc. So I cut it out and made a new duct by beating the living bejeezers out of it around some wood. Welded some more bits to it Removed all the old seam sealer & rust along the length of the scuttle. Welded and ground in the new duct. Seam sealed and painted. So lovely. 51 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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