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It appears the clutch master cylinder is a bit fucked.


Push the clutch in, no pressure. and theres clutch fluid all over the carpet of the interior.


For some reason there is nothing stopping the clutch pedal from flying backwards and pulling the piston out with it. so when i released the clutch, it flew back and my foot got caught on it. so some shit was a bit weird.

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Pulled clutch master cylinder out. Circlip holding everything in had bent and popped out which had allowed the piston to come out and piss hydro fluid all over the floor.

Went hunting for a seal kit for it, but it seems a lot of suppliers are confused and supply a brake master cylinder rebuild kit as a clutch one, but that didn't seem right because the clutch is 5/8 and the brake is 3/4.

So i was scratching round in the garage, and one of the bags of parts i was given by previous owner had a clutch master cylinder in it!!! I suspected it had been removed because it was also buggered, but i filled it with fluid and it seemed to push it out the right end, so i bolted it up and managed to bleed it and the clutch is working again. Hooorah!



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  • 4 weeks later...

It appears the drivers seat is barely attached. The back bolt of the rail on the gearbox side looks like it has ripped the threaded bit out of floor, and some whorey has put a Phillips head nut in it with a 10mm ish bolt on the other side. I have no idea how they even did it up because i can barely get a spanner in there.

Does anyone know if i can remove the seat from the rails while the rails are still attached to the car? I can't seem to work out how to unhook the gearbox side from rail, door side is ezpz tho.


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got the seat out. rammed a square drive screwdriver inside a little hole and managed to push on it hard enough to stop the nut underneath spinning.

ive got the seat and rails apart and shit seems a bit weird with the mounting. odd nuts and bolts used to hold seat to rail, with one of them missing all together. they also have an assortment of little spacer things, so i'm trying to work out a better order to put them all in because it always felt like the seat was a little low in one corner, so hopefully can balance it out.

now just have to get it all mounted back in, and put a rivnut in the corner thats missing a thread. (hopefully that's a safe option??)


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  • 3 weeks later...

Riiiiight so, I'm a bit slow, and I've just had a go at putting the seat back in. I've left it this long because i thought it would be easy.

I worked out part of the issue i had removing it was because the gearbox side was mounted to low and was hitting the trans tunnel, so u couldn't slide seat back far enough to undo the front bolt. So i used a couple of little spacers to fix it. All good.

But, now i go to bolt the seat back in... The thread in the floor at the front of the seat has now unstuck the "weld" and the thread is no longer held in. If i could find the guy who assembled the car in Petone, I'd give him a stern talking to.

But actually, now that both bolts are fucked, i actually need to fix it properly.... Anyone wanna come cut it out and weld a sweet new plate in for me??


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  • 1 month later...

Made it out of the garage, under its own steam, no less.

Many thanks to me ol' m8 Nathan who gave me a hand and forum user 666DAN for helping me swap slave cylinder and forum user AllTorque for taking time to give me his assurance i had set up clutch master cylinder correctly, and give me his condolences for owning a British car. and OS gc's who suggested the clutch would be seized, Yall were bang on.

Drove it to the gas station, pumped tyres up, drove home. It was magical


I need some pictures of the car when it's not just sitting in my driveway...

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  • 7 months later...

So it's nearly prime time for driving round old cars (spring/summer) so thought i'd drag this car out the garage and get it ready for a WOF (hasn't had one for a wee while... whoops).

Everything seems sweet from its hibernation, the clutch keeps seizing on, but it's easy to fix now, as long as i dont leave it too long.

The only issue i have, is that when the car was towed home the first time, the tow truck driver (bless him, he was a top bloke and told me of all his escapades in his own hunters as a whipper-snapper), was kind enough to adjust my doors for me so they shut with a nice soft click.

It seemed as though he did a good job of it, until i had a mate in the back seat on a voyage to KFC and when mate got out the rear door it made this almighty bang noise when he opened the door. SO checked it out, and the front edge of rear passenger side door is catching on the rear part of the front passenger side door. I've created a quick video to sort of illustrate what i mean. I have to idea how to adjust it, so i'm interested in opinions and advice. Do i adjust how the front door sits when its shut? or does the back door need firther adjustment? both? how?

(lets see if this imbeds)

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  • 1 month later...

Door fixed.

Ended up adjusting the catch on the front door so it stopped the door earlier and its cleared it right up.

Took it for a drive round the neighbourhood and ran out of gas as I was reversing it back into the driveway. Note: do not trust the fuel gauge hahaha.

Seems to have picked up a slightly more aggressive oil leak than before from the front of the motor.

I'll attempt a WOF, then hunt out oil leak.....

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  • 2 weeks later...

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