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Llama's 1972 MGB GT


Llama

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After being offered the family's new-school nanna-spec toyota I told them to stuff it and bought this instead.

2011-06-26_Transport.jpg

It was in pretty good nick, sitting around in the previous owners garage for more than a few years. No rust on the body or engine bay, with a little surface rust on the firewall and boot pan. Only done 70000 miles when I bought it, engine seems to be in good condition also.

P6120107.jpg

Not shown there is the oil cooler mounted in front of the radiator.

Lots more to come as I get around to uploading the photos.

I kinda wanted to start with a triumph GT6, but parts aren't half available, and just a shell would put be back twice what I paid for this car. If I was really rolling in dosh, I'd buy a volvo P1800 or Jag XKE

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Well, being my first car I kinda wished I knew what I was looking at when I checked over the engine :rolleyes:

I probably would have noticed this

P6090083.jpg

Looks like the (neglectful) PO broke the mounting when trying set the timing. Until my replacement arrives from america, this will have to do

P6110102.jpg

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Been doing all the usual maintenance on this thing since the previous owners didn't do any. Went to go looking for the grease nipples and found this

P6120104.jpg

The nipples were there, just buried under an inch of old grease mixed with soot and grit, and took a bit of digging to get exposed. I also found a few nuts and bolts buried in the gunk.

Next problem is my intermittent overdrive. I'm praying it's not the solenoid, and think I have the suspect narrowed down to this

P6290173.jpg

However I heard it could be bad oil pressure too, and since my dipstick/filler plug is currently frozen in the hole that could be a problem trying to fill it up... Left some CRC on it last night, hopefully it comes out tonight sometime

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Someone's stolen my camera, but today I removed the entire heating unit (that was a real bitch to get out), and took the radiator in to get looked at (the unit had been plugged off by some previous owner). The shell is pretty rusted, but I'll sand it and respray, and then atleast if I fuck it up it doesn't matter too much

Changed the rear diff and gearbox oil too. Whoever designed these cars obviously hated mechanics. The drain and filler plugs for the diff have different sizes, the gearbox and overdrive drain plugs have different sizes, and the filler/dipstick for the gearbox is under the center console...

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  • 5 weeks later...

Apologies for not posting a whole lot, I was overseas.

I took the heater radiator in to get tested, someone had drilled a hole in it and puttied it up similar to the dizzy, so I had to get that fixed. Also new is a working oil/temp gauge, which is nice to know my car isn't overheating. Pic's coming soon.

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FUCK!~

Someone stole the chrome strip from the side of my door :(

And tried to get into the sunroof, so I don't know if that'll ever work right again.

Screw taking friends in it too, they slam the doors, touch everything they can, and break your seats.

/rage.

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  • 2 months later...

Right. After exams I have two weeks before work, and many plans for the MG as it is going on a road trip come new years.

-Stereo

-Fix leaky diff

-Put heater back in

-Fix seat diaphragm

-New dizzy

-tune carbys

-Convert back seat into something useful?

Thinking either storage bins where the old 6v batteries were or turning it into one big side-facing seat.

-Headlight relays

-Change the glove-box lock (currently it uses the ignition key, and can only be open/closed with the key. Annoying for obvious reasons).

After I get back Ima try take the gearbox out, the synchro on second is defiantly screwed.

Will try provide pics when I find a camera

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  • 2 weeks later...

Some pics taken after pulling the heater box

P6230125.JPG

P6230126.JPG

The putty on the left of the radiator has been removed, and the hole underneath plugged

P6230127.JPG

P6230128.JPG

All I have to do now is get the black finish on, then it should be sweet to stick back on. The motors bearings are screwed, but I can put that in with it being in the car easily enough.

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-Stereo

-Fix leaky diff

-Put heater back in

-Fix seat diaphragm

-New dizzy

-tune carbys

-Convert back seat into something useful?

Thinking either storage bins where the old 6v batteries were or turning it into one big side-facing seat.

-Headlight relays

-Change the glove-box lock (currently it uses the ignition key, and can only be open/closed with the key. Annoying for obvious reasons).

New additions:

Seafoam motor

Find clicky noise coming from gearbox (suspect u joint)

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Spent 5 hours on the car today, man it went fast xD Pics to come tomorrow when I find the camera.

-Rear driveshaft U joint is slightly loose, kinda worried that it'll have to be replaced :\

-Seats taken out, the webbing on the bottom is borked, I'll take them into get fixed tomorrow up on waikamete

-Carpets & rubber bits soaked in brake cleaner to remove the oil stains. Worked pretty well, although the car smells a bit funky. Leaving it to air overnight. Still plan on completely replacing the interior carpets later though.

-Leaky dif presumably fixed, I tightened the bolts and soaked the clogged breather in meths. The breather looks like a Norwegian in south auckland now.

-Took the battery out and removed all the redundant wiring from the old 2x6V setup. Cut out cardboard bits to draft the fibreglass I'm going to make the new battery holders/storage bin.

-Also took glove box lock to locksmith, talked to some guy who was probably younger than me, wasn't helpful at all. Might ask Paul Walbran if he knows anything. Anyone know a good locksmith west auckland way?

Also did a good clean up of the garage, stuff is now nice and orderly :D Although if I have the time I'd like to set my OCDness to sorting out the toolboxes too.

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New things to do list

Stereo

Put heater back in

New dizzy

tune carbys

Headlight relays

Change the glove-box lock (currently it uses the ignition key, and can only be open/closed with the key. Annoying for obvious reasons).

Seafoam motor

Fix rear U joint

Find new under bonnet insulation & rubber seals

Replace interior carpets.

Fix steering alignment

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Right. One more day of working on the carage.

Seats are now at Waikumete auto upholsters, quoted ~300 inc for both webbings fixed up and the covers for one seat redone.

PA270041.JPG

PA270039.JPG

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I think I should keep my car like this permanently. This car is so roomy without any seats in! Just need some extra long blocks for the pedal and I can sit on the rear seat It'll be mean as. Did try driving sitting on the floor, scary as though since you go flying all over the show. Bit disappointed in the paltry $1.80 I found beneath the seats however.

Also been sanding and spraying the heater box down. Good thing I'm practising on this and not something visible, I'm so roflbad at spray painting. Ah well, it'll sand out :doubt:

2011-10-08%25252017.11.31.jpg

PA300061.JPG

Shoutout to Bantam for supplying all the free stuff on the bottom shelf in the above pic :)

I also did some work making the cupboards in the garage a bit more paintwork-friendly.

PA300062.JPG

I'd make such a fail builder. Tried staples for the rag first: from staple gun weren't long enough, couldn't for the life of me get the bigger ones we had to hammer in. Then tried a power drill and screws, but ended up munting the cloth and didn't get any to stay in. Then tried these tiny-ass nails I found, but kept breaking them when trying to hammer them in (how is that even possible???). Finally got some real sized nails out, hammered em though and just flattened off the other side sticking out...

Might not try this with the freezer door however...

Also shown below is the fibreglass panels I cut to line the battery bins. I'm pretty happy with how they turned out, I just need to fill the sides with grommets and glue/drill them down. I picked up the hardware to convert the lid from screw on to hinged too, I'll finish that tomorrow.

PA300060.JPG

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Well shit.

PA310066.JPG

All the other oil leaks have been fixed however. (The fact that it hasn't been started in 3 days is irrelevant :rolleyes: )

Fibreglass panels for the battery bins are cut (including holes for the wires and suchlike), now I'm just waiting on a smaller drill so I can fix it all together.

Waiting on abrown### to weld the hinges to my battery cover, then I'll drill it in sometime.

Probably going to have to tackle the heater again tomorrow :\ not looking forward to that.

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Didn't do any work today whatsoever! terrible me. Did find however unless you do major steering modification (steering-by-wire anyone?) a 1uz will not fit in a MGB :(

This list is so big I'm splitting it into things I should do, and things to do when I have money for it

To Do:

Put heater back in

Headlight relays

Change the glove-box lock (currently it uses the ignition key, and can only be open/closed with the key. Annoying for obvious reasons).

Seafoam motor

Fix rear U joint

Find new under bonnet insulation & rubber seals

Fix lumpy steering

Replace suspension strip-thingies

Fix Broke oil pressure line

Finish Battery bin and cover upgrade

Wishlist:

New dizzy

->tune carbys (has to be done after new dizzy)

Stereo

Replace interior carpets.

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Replaced all the fuel lines today. Stupid screw-clamp-thingies are ever so slightly the wrong size, looks like another trip to mitre 10 is in store.

To Do:

Take the slack out of the hanbrake cable

Oil change

Put heater back in

Headlight relays

Change the glove-box lock (currently it uses the ignition key, and can only be open/closed with the key. Annoying for obvious reasons).

Replace rear U joint

Find new under bonnet insulation

Fix lumpy steering

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Just received news my distributor arrived! :D:compress::bounce:8):):alien:

The first one got lost in the post, which will probably put me off ordering from the US again. However I did pay $285 for something that would have cost $550+ in NZ. (Rebuilt 25D with optical points and custom cap. I can't remember the make of the points tech atm).

This is good as it means I can replace my old bogged thing in the weekend and finally get the carbs tuned too.

P.S. Anyone want to stop around with a timing light? Just realised mine doesn't work...

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  • 3 weeks later...

Today I pulled the console, cleaned up some of the mystery wiring, and put the other seat back in.

Also tried installing the new dizzy. However, could not for the life of me get it to slot in the whole way. The dog drive lined up and would lock, I checked oh so many times that I wasn't 180 degrees out, made sure the clamp was unbolted etc.

Turns out the DPO had over-tightened the clamp bolt, and bent the old dizzy as well as the clamp and bolt. I managed to hammer the bolt straightish and get the clamp to fit over the dizzy, but the car wouldn't turn over properly and made a horrible mechanical clunking sound when I tried :pale:

New clamp ordered... (I'd be so screwed without Paul Walbran lol)

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  • 2 weeks later...

New clamp in, dizzy in and timing set (although atm idiling at 500rpm, something not even possible before...)

Kudo to Aircooled for the timing light. Electronic dizzy so I couldn't figure out how to static time it.

Horror pic of the old dizzy, must have been over-tightened in the past and made that massive crack

PB280058.JPG

I tried straightening the old clamp and bolt, couldn't get it to fit the new dizzy. This was taken AFTER I tried hammering it for a while.

PB280060.JPG

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  • 3 weeks later...

Failed last WOF for a variety or reasons.

-Headlight alignment

Easily fixed

-Handbrake too many clicks to engage

Easily fixed

-R/R brake binding and rear brakes imbalance

Took the rear brakes off for the first time. Looked like ok condition aside from the springs on each side of the brakes are in different holes. Then tried pumping the brakes and one side of the slave was frozen and the other squirted brake fluid everywhere. Looks like I'll be replacing those and bleeding the brakes, yet another thing I haven't done before :\

-No high beam warning light

The light socket doesn't seem to be earthing to the speedo correctly. I cant see how I'm going to fix that without disassembling the speedo, so I'm just going to hook up a temp clip from the bulb socket to some earth and hope the WOF guy doesn't notice.

-Cert required for seatbelts

I had replaced the 2 point, magnetic clasp ones (super dodgy) with 3 point intertia ones. I'm calling BS on this (thanks to cletus) since the 3 mounting holes are all original and the car came with a 3 point belt to start with

-No brake pedal rubber

Also calling BS on this, it wasn't original so I'll just argue with the guy.

-Play in the lower R/F ball joint

Can't find the play at all, although found out the steering rack is stiff as a mannequins nipple. Supposed lube nipple is no where to be seen however. Will ask paul once he gets back.

Also tried my first U joint replacement. All was going swimmingly until I tried hammering one of the new cups in, and managed to get bearings bloody everywhere... Hunted for ages but couldn't find them all. Now two bearings short, looks like I'm going to have to buy another whole joint. Sigh. Quite scared at hitting it too hard now in case that happens again.

Car is now sitting on blocks since no one is around to get parts from :( stupid holidays. Don't they realise that's when people want to get stuff done?

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