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The Complete Guide to Modifying Your MKIV/V Cortina.


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Mention the phrase MKV cortina to most people and the words "Oh dear" normally follows.

Most see them these days as a dated 80's ford fit only for the banger racing circuit.

But don't you believe it because look beyond the moulded stck-on rubber and nasty two-tone paiont jobs and there's a decent, modifiable car waiting to get out. And whats more, one thats as reliable and as comfortable as you like.

MKIV/V's have an awful lot going for them. the boxy styling can be made incredibly clean if you shave off all the rubbish that's stuck to it, and if you avoid all those horrid 80's bodykits, slam the suspension and add some modern big rims, you've got yourself one really cool car thats very, very different.

That of course is leaving out the drive a massive engine bay capable of taking virtuallyanything you can throw at it, bolt-in five speed potentual, plus tunable suspension and ultra comfy interiors too.

So if you want to get in on the best kept ford secret of the decade, buy a MKIV/V Cortina. You'll have change from a tenner. loads of tuning potentual, while parts to maintain them are even cheaper.

Engines -

Late Cortina's actually had three engine options- Kent, Pinto and Colonge, So depending on which engine you.ve got, tuning potenual is vast. However, in crossflow terms we're talking 1300 - can you belive it? and in german form, also 1300 but pinto this time - I bet they're real quick!

By far the most common engine is going to be an OHC either in 1600 or 2000cc form and the most obvious one in terms of performance is going to be thebiggest. If you're looking for an engine though, always consider the tuners package deals 0 a 2.1 bottom end can normally be had for about 50 pounds more than the price of the bits.

The first standard move is to make sure you've got the 32/36 weber and bin the VV carb. this will power the car up to around 135bhp with rejetting. Follow this with a decent air filter plus an exhaust - either the RS2000 cast one, or you can go the whole hog and fit a janspeed . A bit over the top this, but like a 2.1 bottom end, they set the sence for futre mods.

Askyour self a kent FR32 cam and you'll have about 115bhp instead of the 102. rejet the carb next to suit a Stage One head formore on top of that.

If you want to get a bit more serious though, a popular pinto combination is a Stage Two head with 35.5mm inlets and 38mm exhausts, skimmed to give 10:1 compression, a kent FR33 cam and twin 45DCOE Webers. This combination should deliver about 160bhp and will make your MKV rather lively.

Plenty of Pinto tuners exist with perhaps the ultimate being HT Racing's mega 240bhp builds boasting 14:1 compression.

Engine Swaps -

The most obvious swap in a MKIV/V is taking the Pinto out and dropping in a cossie - it's daed easy, everything fits and there are just four wires to connect up. With all those extra ancillaries though - turbo, oil cooler, intercooler, it goes on - you can add weight weight. So leave your srinf ordering until last.

Another option if you've got the 2.3L model is a 2.8 motor from a grenada or capri. the Cortina's colonge, uses twin-choke solex instead of the other two models injection. So you have two options: run a carb or swap in feul injection.

Swapping in a colonge in any engined cortina is no bother either, since the 2.3 front cross member is a bolt in swap. But if you are going the V6 route it would probably be a better idea to fit a later grananda 2.9 rather than the 2.8. For one, you've got a better more advanced twin-plenium fuel-injection system instead, plus more tuning potentual as the 2.8 has siamese ports and mechanical injection. Further on the V6 front we've also seen a Cossie 24 Vlave motor in a MKV which is reputed to have gone straight in.

The engine bay is big enough to take most other ngines - Rover conversion kits have been availble in the past, while there's more than one small block (and bid block) V8 powered Cortina's out there.

Gearbox -

ll but the very last of the last, came with a four speed manual box, so more than likely you'll want a fice-speed like everyone else. This is bsolutly nobother either, match the 2 litre engine to a 2 litre sierria box, 1600 to 1600 box and you're sorted.

Mounting-wise, we've heard that in the absence of a Cortina five speed crossmember the trick is to use an automatic one with the mounts turned upside down. We've not tried this one, but those that have done similar conversions have modified the standard crossmember making the five-speed's mounts fit that.Whatever , it's easier than it sounds, while a 2 litre prop bolts up without any shortening.

If your going the cossie route, you've a bit of work to do - not much, so don't get worried. Normally with this conversion you would use the Borg Warner T5 which fits in the same way, but needs a pair of spacers between the cross member and the floor.

It's also longer than the Type-9 which means the prop needs shortening . However Reco-prop recommend that you have the front halve remade to do away with the standard MKV `doughnut' replacing it with a sleave and yoke.

Axle -

Back alxes in the MKIV/V Cortinas are very strong since they're of the same type found in the Capri. But the casing insn't a straight swap - the Capri's mounted on a leaf springs, the Cortina's on coils with radius arms.

However, the internal can be swapped over for ratio changes but most important of all, to gain a LSD. You will need the LSD's bolts to hold the ring gear on though.

The most obvious source for an LSD is a capri Special, but since everyone and his brother wants one, finding them now is a problem - there just aren't enough to go around. The alternative's either waiting and searching, or buying a new automatic torque baising (ATB) diff from quaife.

Whatever, the nature of the rear axle is that the ratio swaps and LSD units need to be built into the casing - it's not a third member type

Suspension -

The MkIV/V Cortina has an almost identical floor plan and suspension-wise to the MKIII. What does this mean? Well, virtually every ford since the 100E uses macPhearson strut independent front suspension with a live axle mounted on leaf springs.

MKIII to MKV's break with the tradition and use more geometrically correct, double wishbone front suspension. At the back the axles located with radius arms and the whole lot is suspended on ciol springs. Granada's use a similar front but the rear's independent - they don't share any components either.

Lowering therefore, is a bit diferent to the norm, you'll need four dropped and up rated springsrather than two, and lowering blocks. Don't try and cut the springs down as you'll mess up the spring rate.

Mention late model Cortina to anyone who's had one and they'll say two words - Void Bushes. These are located on the rear radius arms and are a nightmare both to get out and once worn they effect handling. The car wallows and makes everyone inside feel seasick.

Brakes -

Since The Cortina uses M16 Callipers, all you have to do on the stopping front is think Capri - Whatever fits a 2.8 injection bolts on to the MKIV/V. Venteddiscs are therefore no problem along with the relevent callipers.

As we're on Capri's the the Capri Sports range will fit too - 260/24 mm kit with grenada scorpio single piston callipers. Plus all the usual upgrades such as AP four-pots. Cossie discs at al, along with the relevent bigger wheel size to accommodate them inside.

If you want really massive brakes though, then the choices is also rather large. Plenty of brake specialists areout there - Braking point, Hi spec and Rally design, all use aluminium bells, whopper discs and callipers to suit.

The standard Cortina rear drums are the largest on the 2L & 2.3L models - 9 in (same size as Capri) Since the axle's of Atlas type, the various rear disc kits also fit (Capro bolt on Rally Design weld on). Make sure you use Serria-Type callipers for the street then you'll get the facility for a handbrake.

You may also need to alter the size of your master cylinder to accommodate these and the hot ticket is to use one from a Aussie Import Cortina. Further brake enhancement comes froma decent set of padsplus a set of braided hoses too.

Wheels & Tyres -

Cortinas have enormous wheel arches and of course, no leaf springs in the way at the back. Conseqently, virtually any standard ford wheels fits; even front wheel drive off sets. Also popular are peugeot 205 15" rims !

Big rims suit the but 16's are about the right proportion-wise; 17's don't rub on the arch but they can look a bit silly. The ideal combination is 16's with 35mm offset, fitted with 214/40R16 tyres.

Interior -

These can be vaery basic or extremely plush depending on which model you've got. The Ghia in particular has loads of pretty trick (for it's days) options plus lots of that matt finished plastic wood. Although we reckon that actuallymucg better than the current crop of ultra high gloss tacky nonsence.

Most seat options are all a bit TV chair although the very last cars came with fishnet recaros. Which means they can be swapped in if you haven't already got them, or exchange for some out of something a bit better - like the RS Turbo. You'll need to swap th subframes over though.

Given it's fur-door status you're probably better off going for the comfy but hard street car rather than the balls out racer. Roll cages aren't availanble off the shelf and stripped out interiors really only works on Two door cars. Now if you had a 1300 based modeltwo door... :)

Recomendations for tricking out your Tina

2000 NZD -

** Slammed 3" and some old skool rims and tyres.

3000 NZD -

** Shave off body mouldings , french the doors and boot, replace all rubbers around windows and solenoid the doors and boot.

6000 NZD

** Decent paint job and removal of rust.

9000 NZD

** Car is looking sweet so here goes.

- Work the pinto or engine swap, anything from a V6 to a V8 or Rotor if thats what ya into.

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