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estate_

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Posts posted by estate_

  1. Yeah, its most likely to be 70cc. Would sell for $100 with kick lever, gearshift lever, CDI, coil and carb with filter. Would just need to join a few wires and away you go.

    Hmm. Would have bought it in a heartbeat a month or so ago, but have since bought a ute... Whats the compression/condition and that like? How fast did it go on the madass?

  2. It really depends what type of driving you are doing in regards to fuel consumption. Open road consumption is shit, it is shaped like a toaster and geared pretty low so sits at a million revs and uses a fair bit of gas, however around town its pretty decent and i thrash mine everywhere(you kind of have to) I don't do a lot of 100km/h driving anymore so it has been decent on gas for me.

  3. also, with tose wheels and the lowering, handled better than any thing ever!

    How did you do yours? Cutties in the front, blocks in the back? Keen to do mine mine sometime, its looking like a 4wd at the moment, despite me getting stuck on wet grass when Westfield opened the grass overflow parking in the rain :lol: Oh and it handles like a bus

    I currently own one aswell, they are heaps of fun to drive, as others have said they are savage in the wet, or of course gravel, pretty short wheel base so you do have to be a little careful you don't end up facing where you came from.

    They aren't exactly fast, but everything feels 100x faster in the carry anyway.

    vbxynulv.jlt.jpg

    My wheels stick out the guards a few cm, but the sliding doors just clear them

    http://iforce.co.nz/i/dekczcla.lvt.jpg

    In terms of engine conversions, pretty much anything will be a bitch. The limited space in the engine means that the engine is on a slant, therefore to fit any other engine in it has to be equally small and also on a slant, so some sump cutting/oil pickup mods are in order, and the intake manifold will usually need to be modified. From there you will obviously have to do all the usual stz, engine mounts, finding a box to fit or swapping box, hoping you dont shred the diff, or getting a stronger one shortened to fit etc. Also all the other stuff depending what engine you get, EFI setup if needed etc, it can be done if you are determined and patient.

    Just do it, if you're worried about the fact that you are the crumple zone then you can always put a bullbar on.

  4. if you wanted igniton to be easy id screw some model nitro glow plugs in it worked on my ryobi weed wacker just have to run nitro fuel

    Any more details on this? What size glow plugs are you using? The tiny as little ones in the little 1/10th nitro buggers? Or bigger ones? Running straight nitro mix(like the hobby stuff straight from the bottle, no mixed in petrol?)

    Sounds like I may have a use for my $20 weedeater engine :twisted:

  5. Oh awesome, I'm pretty sure it would be the same, and it does seem right seeing as i can occasionally find first below neutral, and second above, that does make diagnosing it a whole lot easier, knowing where first 'should' be.

    Will do a double oil change and see if that brings out some of the stale shit that has probably built up in the time since this was last run. If need be i will just take it all apart and check it properly, just would rather try other options first before diving into it all.

  6. So, i bought an 82 or so C50 that hasn't been on the road since 95, and looks like it has been a paddock hack and been various shades of lime green and other colours over time. Anyway, the engine had pretty much no compression, and it turned out that there was a broken piston ring, scratches on the piston and wall, and a badly pitted head. So i did a basic top end rebuild, new +0.5 oversize piston and barrel bored out to match, skimmed head, valves checked/adjusted, new head/base gaskets and a new spark plug. However, my logic at the time with the rest of the engine was "if it aint broke, dont fix it" however this wasn't the smartest approach as it would turn out that it infact IS broke, i didnt split the cases and look at the transmission or any of that stz

    So, onto the problem(s?)

    The transmission is rediculously erratic, and I am struggling to even describe the problem, as it seems to be everything :lol: Anyway, nothing seems to be uniform in the box, I can only very very occasionally find first, and when i do find it i start taking off in first and it will usually disengage on its own, and rev like it is in neutral, while i roll backwards/wherever gravity wants me to. The bulk of the time, when i am in neutral, or as up as it will go(pushing the gear lever up towards me) and push the lever down, instead of going to first it seems to go to 2nd and be a mission to get moving. Once i am in second i can ride and click down into third and get up to decent speed, but when i try to downshift it is also rather unpredictable and sometimes goes to second as expected, and other times just slows me for a split second then goes into what seems to be neutral, then i shift down again and its still in neutral

    TL;DR:

    So, it seems to me that first doesnt want to engage pretty much at all, and second seems to also be a little bit iffy. Oh, and also sometimes when i am in neutral, and try go up(which shouldnt exist afaik, as it is a 3 down box if i am correct, could be wrong) then it will go into either first for a bit, then slip out of it, or go into second. I actually managed to get a bit of a crunch sound out of it once, which seems a bit odd from a constant mesh gearbox

    Finding it quite hard to diagnose what the problem even is, yet alone the solution, however my plan is to flush it out a few times, but not sure what with? I would rather not have to rip it apart just yet until i have tried some other softer approaches, like flushing it and that kind of stuff. Anyone got suggestions on what to flush it with? Or anyone had issues with 'losing' gears?

    Cheers

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