Brennan

Painted the tank guard satin black today and fitted it properly.

Pretty happy with the result.

Got the petrol tank bash guard back.

Fits nice and snug.

has two metal straps at the other end to help hold it up.

Will paint it satin black tomorrow as i feel the alloy drop tank look doesn't work with the rest of the car.

That was the last thing left for certification.

Now just need to wait for the new callipers to show up

The Thread O.D is 51.75mm
Thread height 1.6-1.7ish
Total height of the body is about 250mm, not including the shaft.

Intake looks sweet! Can't wait to see this out on a track.

Was aware of them, seem to be semi difficult to get a hold of.

That modification would turn them into a 2way clutch type lsd? or similar?

They seem to not make aftermarket lsd's for my ratio, just the higher ratio's.

did find this though, http://www.ringpinion.com/b2c/ProductDetails.aspx?ProdID=2959&Product=AG_545016&Brand=Auburn_Gear_&ShowAA=True&Year=1986&Model=240&DriveType=Rear%20Diff%20-%20RWD&DiffId=119&Source=DiffWizard

Is a clutch type when open and locked when you flick the switch.

Will wait till winter or beyond before i look into them further.

Long time no update. Sad times. Picture less update.

Volvo calipers were a bit rooted pitted pistons etc.
so have brought new calipers from the USA.
Factory replacements, Cressida for the front and Volvo for the back. Was going to be 12days before they could even post them. So counting down. Not long now hopefully.

Petrol tank bash guard is halfway there. Just needs some welds and figure out how to mount it.
Hopefully it doesn't look too homo, as it's pretty visible.

Other than that everything else is ticked off the certification to do list.

Doesn't look like there will be any New Years road trip in the corolla though

Keen to see if somebody can find some locally. Otherwise I will let you know in February how easy it is to make them.

Get those wheels on ASAP! cant wait to see it.

Dont go to low profile, or the car will sit to low and you wont be able to get rid or the gap between the fender and the tyre.

www.willtheyfit.com is helpful. 

keen, if it was ashhurst domain i would probably buy fish n chips.

Ever since we bled the brakes before the tune, the left rear brakes have been stuck on.
At first we thought it was just the pads tight on the disc, and that it would make some room itself after a few drives.
After a dyno run and a few drives up the road, it turns out that the inner piston of the left caliper is stuck. The outer piston and both pistons on the drivers side seem to be sweet.
 

Will take them in to be checked and probably rebuilt on monday.

Left disc on the left...

 
Might be another reason a few kw were missing from the dyno run??

Have also drilled holes into the 4 link control arms to check the threads on the rod ends are in at least 1.5 x the diameter.

Also attached the front brake lines to the struts using some metal clips i made up to replace the zip ties. 

Have started on the bash guard for the fuel tank.

Its sooo close.

Brought some hose tails and vacuum hose to hook up to the PCV.

Drilled and taped the manifold as well as one of my old mans fuel blocks.

 

All works and seems to have a decent air flow through the valve.

A blacktop 4a-ge valve fits much better than the altezza one.

 

 

 

 

 

Thats pretty cool, i had not thought of that.

But since i do not have a catalytic converter in the exhaust system i dont see how this would be any benefit over just venting into the atmosphere? (emissions wise) 

For certification they would want it to go through the engine??

Or would that be no different either, and this whole "emissions" thing is relying on the engine still having a catalytic converter installed?????

Sweet. Yes I can see it working now.

So you guys reckon that it would be an advantage to having a vacuum on the gasses to suck them though the engine? I was just going to disconnect it after cert and revert it back to how it is at the moment. But having second thoughts now.

It's not too much of a drama about the PCV - because if you look at the size of the hole in the valve, it's effing tiny... And it's got a valve in there to stop it from sucking too much air through. It also makes your engine a bit healthier by sucking out the crappy fumes etc while you are idling. So it's not a bad thing, just cunty to try and fit in some how.

You could probably get away with plumbing it into just one or two of your throttles perhaps. Easy way to get a rugged sounding idle hahaha.

Unless of course he's also saying that you need the other crankcase vent line connected to the intake too, in which case... aaahhh... yeah.

Dunno how that would work.

It's pretty awesome how much you've managed to get done on this car in this time frame, A++ would read thread again.

Cheers man. Yea Andy did recommend that I plumb it back into one of the trumpets. But I'm not sure either what I am going to do with the secondary one?

At least it was the only semi difficult thing wrong.

I am amazed there was not more.

That fuel tank +150mm clearance is a funny one, I doubt a stock E30 (in my case) would even have that.

Good the cert list wasn't too onerous looking...

Yea was a funny one that I hadn't heard of before. 150mm doesn't sound very low but when you see it, it looks low. I was already looking at putting a plate under it.

Had to shoot up to Auckland for work today so my Old man took the corolla for its cert with Andy Smith in Levin.
It Needs:
-Pcv Valve hooked back up for emissions

-Brake hose, can not be cable tied to strut.

-Crack test weld on strut, need to find the paper work.

-Thread depth holes on 4 link bars. 3mm holes drilled into bars at 24mm from end.

-Fuel tank cover 3mm plate. Tank is too low. 200mm minimum. measures 150mm to ground.

-Roll front fender lips.

All pretty easy stuff. And shouldn't cost to much more. May be a mission figuring out this stupid pcv valve though?

I am much happier with mine being 6kg Front, 4kg Rear, instead of the 8, 6.

Just had to raise it a little after swapping them in, as the springs could not hold up the downforce of the car going over dips.

Although even with it a little higher i still had a few sparks fly on a quick run today.

Raised it up, 15mm in the back 10mm in the front.

Took it for a drive, and great successes. 

May still raise the back up a little more?

All ready for cert in Levin on Monday.

Although i think it may need a stronger clutch and definitely a retune now that its running better.

Good luck finding the rubber ones. I need two rubber ones to replace two of my rose joints.

What a mission. Best i could find in a hurry was on summit, barely any of the local shops even understood what i was talking about.

In the end i just made my own.

Haha it wasn't the 5 dips. I will have to do 70 through there. Was down ashhurst and grove road. Will give it another go tonight after a few adjustments. And I have some slightly skinnier alloy wheels coming for it. Which should help.

Yea, I had the 8kg front and 6kg rear before. Would have been perfect if it was a drift car on a track.

But will be spending most of its time on back roads and in the hills, so swapped the 6kg to the front and the 4kg in the rear.

Everything haha. Tyres on the way back. Exhaust and sump tray constantly. And chassis a few times. Haha. Not very fun.

6kg front, 4kg rear, because it is mainly going to be a street car. Spending more time in the hills than on a track so felt the softer would be better.

too late..

These turned up at work this morning.

4kg springs for the rear, and a magnetic sump plug.

So i left early and put them in.

Machined up some plastic hub centric rings.

Bolted it all back together.

And she was beached on the hoist.

It must be about 50-70mm off the ground.

Took it for a drive and nailing it down a fairly average country road, it scraped ALLOT.

Decided low static cars are not for me, when i still want it to be a tiny bit practical.

Will look at raising it a bit tomorrow.

Other than that she is ready for cert.