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Brennan

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Posts posted by Brennan

  1. The cams where doing some funny things on the first dyno too. but that may have been related to one of the many other problems.

     

    Guy on altezza forum had a similar cam rattle and eventually found that it was because of low oil pressure, caused by the sump being bashed into the pickup point. Mine is a little dented next to the drain bung.

     

    Im also using 5w40 penrite oil, so will go to a 5w30 castrol synthetic and see it that helps.

     

    Not really so keen on pulling the cambelt off with what ever else needs to be removed to access the filter.

  2. Sweet, must deff be the pump. What a hassle! But at least it didn't cost you a motor. Although it sounds like you need a new cam wheel.

    Yes. New pump is not to bad. Keith found a few forum posts about cleaning the valve/solenoid on the vvti on 2zz and 1jz engines. So hopefully it may be that. Causes an inconsistent oil flow to the cams.

  3. We got the pump out. 

    It's a Walbro 5ca400. 12v and 50psi (just found out factory altezza needs 62psi, so thats a pretty shit start.)

     

    It is receiving 12v and 3.8Amps from the car.  And got to 20psi on a gauge when we tested it in car.

    So we hooked a car battery straight onto the pump and it still only went to 20psi.

    So my old man is going to see the electrician with the pump tomorrow. 

     

    does this sound accurate?? from http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/forums/showthread.php/77433-3sge-beams-altezza-fuel-pressure

     

     

    62 stock with returnless. 

    i've dropped mine down to 40ish psi with a return line.
  4. We got the pump out. 


    It's a Walbro 5ca400. 12v and 50psi, (so if it needs 60psi like roman says is factory, will need a better one.


     


    It is receiving 12v and 3.8Amps from the car.  And got to 20psi on the gauge.


    So we hooked a car battery straight onto the pump and it still only went to 20psi. So my old man is going to see the electrician with the pump tomorrow. 


     


    Cheers for your help yesterday eke_zetec_RWD.


  5. Went for another dyno tune today, to try sort this excessive fuel issue.


    After spending the morning checking everything and trying to find the reason why it was not running right when leaner.


    We figured out that there was only 20psi coming from the fuel pump, when it should be 40+


     


    So will have to pull the tank out tomorrow to see what sort of pump the electrician put in the tank.


    And try work out why it is so weak.


     


    No driving for me anytime soon.


  6. Had some new nolathane rod ends made up for the trailing arms on the diff.


    Here is one i already had on the front of the lower trailing arms.


     


    12356562164_6c6158b586_z.jpg

     

    I now have a pair on the top and bottom of the front of the 4 links.

     

    Hopefully this relieves some of the stresses in the arms and make them less noisy.

     

    In slightly scarier news. It seems to have used over half a tank (~25litre) and only traveled 60Km. :/

  7. -Chapter 6-

     

    ​Received my Cert plate after the recheck. Got a WOF and paid the rego.

     

    long story short i had to get the struts crack tested again.

    ​Apparently now it needs to be done by somebody with qualifications in crack testing.

     

    Have been driving it ever since.

     

    12245779116_fbef58d428_c.jpg
     
    Also managed to score some Pioneer ts-x8,
    Few dents but otherwise pretty mint and sound great.
     

    12245496664_d88d99484c_c.jpg
     

    12245242193_a8a52123a3_c.jpg
     

     

     

    Hopefully have a few more goodies arrive from Japan shortly.

     

    Discussion is here //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/31343-brennans-ke70-corolla-3sge-beams-powered/page-14

    • Like 9
  8. Would a mx5 motor and box work?

    1st generation would have to be cheap and easy??

    Keeps it in the Ford/Mazda family

    Or maybe one of the newer motors with a 6speed, like the altezzas? Or did they get all electronic and full of sensors too?

  9. haha AMEN to all that ^^ 
    Link ecu saves so much mucking around.

    w5# mechanical speedo drive works sweet with the Link.

    not sure how this would work with the escort.

     

    2 years and more than $10,000 is accurate.

     

    Personally i would be going for a 1uzfe lexus v8.

  10. Looking good!

    Doesn't look like it would need to be lowered much.

    If it was me I would carefully cut the springs.

    You should be able to get it a little lower, without making the springs uncaptive. And lowering blocks for the back? Allowed up to 2inch ones

    legally.

    Did you find out where the nuts came from?

  11. Thought I would do a small "how to" for Ae86/Ke70 Coilovers, to share some knowledge. Since this style of Strut is becoming pretty common in projects on here.
    This should also work for others, Cressida etc.
    Dont hold me to anything i type on here, this is my experience to the best of my memory. Double check all measurements etc
     
    null_zps9ef057a5.jpg
     
    1.
    First of all you will need to pick which companies coilover “kit” you want to use.
    I decided to go with Powered by MAX in the end as I had some pretty good first hand feedback from people using them on there Corolla.
     
    de64a524-69ec-4d27-9375-060f17c929ba_zps
     
    I was also seriously considering these XYZ coilovers, before i decided on MAX.
    11831725936_9b87846582_z.jpg
     
    2.
    Because I was buying them for a later model ke70 that has the same chassis as a AE86 but smaller non-vented brakes. I thought I would start with Gx71 Cressida struts. These are the same if not bigger than Ae86 Struts and have vented brakes like the Ae86 but are much easier to find and cheaper.
     
    null_zps5aeb2521.jpg

    1983 Ke70 VS 1986 Gx71??

     
    3.
    Once I had these and the Max Coilovers. Using Clints handy diagram that i checked with my certifier.
     
    11831798646_cb9ab33c96_z.jpg
     
    null_zps8fb5d953.jpg
    I then marked 60mm on the strut I then cut them off with a drop saw. I’m sure an angle grinder would work if your careful.
    After this you can remove all the paint of the strut ready for welding.
    null_zps3f191bbf.jpg
     
    5.
    For this step you will want to pay somebody who is decent with a welder, to TIG them together. (Apparently it does not have to be done by somebody who is certified.) The certified engineer I used, welded right around the base of the Coilover tube, and then did 4 plug welds towards the top.
     
    null_zps9dfe7b40.jpg
     
    6.
    Once this has been completed you will want to get them crack tested.
    After I had already had them tested and painted. I found out that this MUST now be done by a certified Crack tester. Somebody who has the Certificate ANSI level 2 CBIP or equivalent.
    The only place in Palmerston North that has this is FieldAir, the aeroplane engineers at the airport.

    There must be others around the country.
     
    7.
    Once painted you will have a fully adjustable Coilover, hopefully something like this? or better? 

     

    null_zpsc369a212.jpg

    Note:
    If you want to used the larger gx71 Cressida Struts on your Ae86/Ke70, you will need to also purchase some of Techno Toy Tuning’s hybrid Steering Knuckles and Roll Centre Adjusters. As the bolt spacing is a little larger on the cressida.

     

    11831846606_ebd351cb1e_z.jpg

     

     

     

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