Brennan

Both driveshafts are finished and in,




And pushed it outside for some sunshine while my brother used the hoist.

Started on the rear DS loop

And got some diff oil in.

Ok, So it didnt look like this then

I think im going to try find a U bend to come out of the throttle side, then from there copy you.

Stupidly brought two driveshaft loops on an impulse buy a couple of weeks ago.

Deep down i knew i really didn't need them and that they weren't going to fit.

Today the first one transformed into this

Much better

Also finished relocating the fuel lines, much happier with them now, and are sitting no where near the driveshaft and diff.

Wired up the licence plate lights.

And Painted the lip before fitting it.

What would you recommend to do with/about the PCV valve?

I do have a ventilated catch can there to use.

Should i remove the valve?

I noticed on yours, @truenotch, that you had two right angles on top.

did you block off the side hole where the valve was?

Got the driveshaft back in. All balanced and ready to go.

Need to make/fit the two driveshaft loops next.

And reroute the Petrol lines.

Also started prepping the front lip for its paint.

I thought ke70 was smaller diameter than cressida/ae86?

i never actually measured mine, just went straight to the cressida stuff, and it has worked out perfect, thanks to the t3 hybrid knuckles.

Cressida (x7) and ae86 are definitely 51mm OD

I liked kpr's way of using s13 coilovers on his ae86 or kp60?

Cut them up and weld them on to the toyota strut.

A mate sold her lowered on 17's, year old paint job, 1983 gl for $6-7000

i thought she was dreaming asking for that much, but it sold pretty quickly.

Some people have to much money.

yea figured that, must have misread what ever i saw.

ok, sounds good, i swear i read recently it was something like 25mm off the mounting face.

but i cant seem to find that now. 

plus both of your answers are much better in the real world.

cheers

Am i right in thinking that legally there is a specified length for how long wheel studs need to be?

(usable thread length)

would be good to know if i am buying some more.

Cheers

sweet. was thinking that too, as there would not be much jb-weld in there either.

Cheers  

I asked to see if anybody had any better ideas, or any solid reasons not to tack weld them.

After a bit of research, apparently JB-Weld, epoxy glue is what others have used, and can be purchased from jaycar by the looks.

will check out Repco this afternoon though and see if they have anything with a bigger splines.

That's why I want to weld them. So they don't ever spin. Some of them are ok. But I bet if somebody ever used a rattle gun on them in it would spin them and never get the nut off.

Where do you buy studs? pretty certain Autolign was fairly useless last time I tried there. Same with repco.

Not so keen on spending another $80 to buy another set of studs.

They are the right studs, just the 0.01mm diference in them and the original ones is to much.

Will check with the engineer tomorrow anyway.

Cheers Guys.

the splines would break free with just a breaker bar, let alone a rattle gun haha.

i brought some longer studs for my volvo diff in my ke70.

The Splines are not the best though, so they spin.

Would there be any problem with putting a small weld on the back of the stud to keep it in place?

A grinder would be enough to remove the weld incase they ever needed to be removed.

Cheers, Brennan

Looks like the corolla won't be done in time

thats the plan, the 3sge should have more than enough power for me anyhow, so the power lost from a quiet exhaust shouldn't be a problem.

Coilovers are all in,

Two piece Drive Shaft also fitted,

will be pulling it all out tomorrow, and doing some painting.

Get the brakes rebuilt and bleed as well hopefully.

And take the driveshaft to be balanced on monday.

good reasoning for the electric windows. But you must be able to get NEW winders. yours will be breaking as plastic gets brittle with age.

as for the alarm, i have not heard of that brand, but i would say a shit alarm/immobiliser, will definitely be a lot worse than having nothing.

Not being able to open or start your car due to a dodgy setup is never fun.

If you must have electric windows, i would be looking at these. They also do a switch that keeps the existing window crank, so it doesn't appear that you have electric windows.

http://www.autoloc.com/catalog/Power-Window-Kits/Universal-Curved-Window/PW4600/2-Door-Uwire-Universal-Power-Window-Kit-with-No-Switches

They also do a switch that keeps the existing window crank, so it doesn't appear that you have electric windows.

Cost a fair few $$ though.

I wouldnt bother with the electric windows (i prefer manual ones)

If you looking at central locking, i would get an alarm at the same time, would go have a talk to SSS on Tremaine Ave.

you are looking at $500-$600 though from memory.

Very tempting!

Will see if pro parts can do a 60 series or a super 50 and get back to you.