ta63-1uzze

if you pressure/vacuum fill the cooling system then its not normally an issue, an air lock is when you cant get the air out of the cooling system, it gets trapped at the highest point. air is compressible so even when the cooling system gets hot and expands the air stays where it is. this is an issue as it interrupts the flow of coolant. making hot spots in the system where coolant doesn't flow so it sits in the same spot and boils = very bad in every kind of way.

you can get bleeding systems that either pressurize the system or vacuums the system and you fill it using the suction created by the vacuum these work very well , you do need a compressor to use such tools  and a little bit of know how.

bnt sell vacuum bleeders as does most auto parts places. I personally have one cause I have a heater tap that is higher than my radiator. I would recommend them they save a lot of time but you do need a compressor to use it

 how much is it drawing ? does it have coil on plug or something .

so when its faulting have you touched all the wiring by hand? looking for heat in any wire coming from the alternator and any of the engine earths body earths etc. or failing that checking for voltage drop across any connections in the circuit? voltage drop is your best friend in this kind of situation as you can get actual tests done on the working FAULTING circuit. this is important because heat and resistance will change any tests you do on a cold circuit and give you positive false reading , so if you do have a poor earth when you resistance check it cold it will probably test up fine. then when you run it up and everything gets hot it all changes and becomes faulty.

in my mind I can think of 3 things that could be the fault/cause/symptom.

1 poor earth, wiring too small, poor dirty connections, etc.

2 over spun alternator .

3 faulty alternator.

I think it is a wiring fault as you have said that when you made a isolated circuit (jumper cables and new battery) it tested up good

so the question remains was the alternator hot when you isolated the circuit ? because if it wasn't then you have found your fault (the vehicle wiring) if it was extremely hot then there is still something wrong and its probably as mentioned faulty windings

I think you have a loose connection in/to your alarm  and its causing your issues.  I think you should re solder the connections or at least remove it completely and see if the problem goes away.

basically the engine isn't connected to any lights in any kind of way other than the alarm , as for a relay clicking its most likely because it is being turned on and off over and over indicating a loose connection, either way the connections need checking or the alarm needs to be removed so you can rule it out.  

for a quick test, start the car and wiggle the wiring around the column / alarm and see if it makes the relay tick or even cut the engine off, if it does and you can make it do it over and over then you have found your problem and now you can go about fixing it   

hope this helps in some way shape or form

I think its more a question of what is your desired engine. as some manufactures use a second throttle plate as a traction control and some use abs and some use actuators to lift the pedal itself ,  so how to disable them really depends on the particular system you have.

and as said put the engine together and plonk it in the hole. try put as much of it together as possible then decide if its easier to cut the sump to clear or lower the sub frame etc. . . many different ways you can make things fit, all depends on what you can do, like if you don't have a welder then cutting up the sump isn't going to be easy so spacing out the sub frame might be something you can achieve your self

all sorts of good ideas on the forum, many different ways to skin a cat

lol would probably pay to just charge the battery fully and properly first before everyone gets all crazy about testing everything,  trying to analyze any reading/tests with a flat battery is only going to make you scratch your head

if that battery is dead flat chances are the alt hasn't been given enough power to excite it, and that means it isn't going to start charging even if you get it running via jump starting.  

please report back to us after you have given the bat a full charge, and check the water level is good before charging too : )

"bc Cressida mx73" . bolt in rear, weld on front. 1500 bucks from redline performance. they will fit your beast (if I am wrong then someone will pipe up no doubt) .

as for going 40mm low I don't think even adjustable will do that out of the box. 70/80mm is a nice height ,I cant see anyone loving driving on nz roads at 40mm, its a bit on the silly side isn't it ?

I also have the blue one that rookie posted.

I bought mine from machinery house, its great , I have used it allot , they are very good.

www.machineryhouse.co.nz/w1125

they are on special, they have support in new Zealand if you ever need any parts service or help etc..  they even have a dedicated rep that you can call and harass if you need to talk turkey with some one. they guys in high brook drive were very helpful when I bought mine.

if I didn't buy the one I did , I was looking at another unit it was from weld tech it was a "xcel tig 200"  . they are also on high brook drive , they are awesome I cant recommend them enough, even if you just want so help in choosing materials , rods, tungsten's anything to do with welding they always are so helpful

they have very long warranty periods, they offer hugely discounted servicing of the machine if you have bough it from them , they do repairs on site, shit I really couldn't recommend them enough, the only reason I didn't end up buying from them was that the other welder from  machinery house was on special, I got the whole lot for 1800 including gst. was a little while ago now, but I think they are even cheaper now so that is more of a bonus

this thread is ironic as fuck, . it was last year about this time I had the same issue as you and I had all this same shit going through my head about engine swaps etc . . but it turns out that the corolla wagons are still worth good money. I sold my old wagon same as yours with 380 000 kms for just shy of 3 grand !!!

I then got a Carib black top 6 speed . . . 5 star alarm, lowered, 16 inch  mags, tints, fully serviced and extensive service history,  cam belt with all trimming ie water pump seals coolant etc etc. 190kms on the clock, tow bar, sun roof ,hands free kit, mean sounds with new components,  monsoon shields everything you can think of for a spiffing price of  4800 .

I had to look for about a month to find this gem, but they are out there . much easier then mucking around with engine swaps and all that shit, just buy it get in it and drive ,

I test drove about ten of them and this was the last one i came across no one even bid on the auction so i bartend them down 500 or so and took it away the following weekend  : )

best car decision i have ever made, well its the only one of my cars that is going and has a wof .

you  will need a cert for any engine swap regardless if its bolt in or came factory in any other model etc...  for an upgrade that you could  possibly getting away no cert cause they look almost identical , all I can think of is a 5afe /7afe so a little more "cc's" . it will look the same and have a little more power but its no 4age.

any "afe " you chose will probably have high kms and will have the same valve guide seals gone hard. so all in all I think your best option is to give your engine a bit of love. I also had this exact same wagon for almost 8 years, it went to 380 000 before I sold it and its still driving around now. the guides can be done in place with a home made crank locking tool and a air compressor to fill the cylinder with air (hold the valves in place whilst you change the guide). if you are handy with tools its not hard job to do.

suspension bush's cant look past "sas" in manakau . they will have everything and I don't think you wil find cheaper any where else. they also do fitting if you cant get access to a press .  

that's great news for you cause I have done the seat conversion into a ta63 carina and  corona and I did them the same way.

on each rail there is a roller / lower half and a channel section, the top channel section has 2 or 3 spots where tis either pined/riveted or welded, I cant remember correctly but I know its anchored and needs attacking with a grinder. you grind them off and the lower half of the rail comes away with the roller /channel / forwards and backwards and lock mechanism

next you need to get some steel ,something like 5 x 50 is nice to use. drill holes and attach them to your new seats with bolts and washers. throw the  rails in the car,  and sit the seat on the rails vice grip them in or what ever , test out fitment . sometimes depending on the seat you have you may have to prop up or angle the base of the seat with steel. once you have found the right height and position for you , weld it all up. bit of paint and your done.

they are easy enough if you try separate the lower half as it has everything that you need .  

it doesn't  need cert for a seat change, if you use the original seat mounts and the seatbelt uses the origonal mounts . and also the seat must be able to adjust seat forwards and back for wof

you do need a cert if

*your seat belt buckle ataches to the seat and you have had to modify it to fit your new  seats,

*or if you make new mounting points in your car for your seat

to mount them you need to cut off your old seat rails, then you need some 5mm steel and you need to weld these across from one rail to the next, drill holes in said steel and bolt through the steel into the aftermarket seat. '

by doing it this way you keep your factory rails ( also have to be adjustable for wof) , factory seat anchor points and factory seatbelt anchor points keeping you all legal

it is easy as fuck , you need a welder and some steel and a bit of know how . and your old seat will go in the bin cause they have no rails and you cant easily undo what you have just done

so designing has commenced and I have found that I need some information regarding the centre's flange measurements, its makes life easier if I design the flange to fit basic and common barrels

so done anyone have and bbs, 15s that they can tell me the pcd of the bolts and the id and od of the flange surface ?

I have been scouring over the internet but I haven't found anything just and the search is getting tiresome

oh man, so many feels, that really sucks. : (

is it a write of anyone know yet? I had no idea they came out with irs end too. think I want one more than ever now

worked ford and Mazda for a few years,

bad things are excessive

* tire wear if not rotated every service, they feather badly making lots "NHV" .

* coil packs are shit , got to keep an eye on your plugs if you want o make the coil last,

* seams to be a bit hard on the shocks , but good aftermarket gas shocks sort that out nicely

* hand brake is shit . some have a adjuster behind the 14mm bolt in the calliper itself so you can tickle it up for wof, but not every model has it,

only other thing is if they haven't been well looked after, I say this because there is a metric fuck tone of they that were lease cars and or company cars , not everyone looks after them as well as they say they do, so just be sure to get as much paper work as you can so you can be sure its had all the right things replaced at the right time  

if you ever need to work on the car yourself , they are great, very easy to do just about everything . they are really nice and easy .

other than that all I can say is that I would defiantly own one for the misses, I would even go far enough to say I would quite happily own one for a daily driver. but I prefer the sp23 manual, shit they go well for a little car : )  

tig is great for control and mig is also great each are great which is why I have both, each has there plus's but all I really have to say is "weldingtipsandtricks.com "

has helped so much , I've watched some videos so many times,

yeah I need 15 for the my centres , so far just 4 to 5 inch wide.

I was worried about shipping because if they ping my for tax and shipping it will probably work out more then if I just buy them locally , remember there is 8 to buy at least 150 to 200 bucks each.  so tax will be fuck loads.

update,

white horse industries , actually very well priced, unknown as to weather or not they are polished etc

15 x 4 = $125 each

14x4.5 =$130 each

15x5.5 =$140 each

this is Au $,which is good at the moment verses NZ$  , but then its plus shipping, and tax, so could end up cheaper. but probably not  .

Looking at doing same thing in next 6 months.

You aware of the % inner and outer lip you can have for certification requirements?

 

Gaz

yup , sir cletus has posted this lovely bit of information .  have had a good read of it, lots of information to sift through .

 

http://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/standards/LVVTA_STD_Wheels_&_Tyres.pdf

Argh, some time out with the OBD unit unveiled a few unexpected clues/issues.

 

Set up some displays for rpm, ignition advance, MAF reading, intake temp, throttle position.

 

For shits and giggles I thought I'd put a OBD unit voltage meter in there as well... 15.3 volts. shit.

 

Get back home and see that my voltage sense wire on the battery terminal had kinda broken.

Stripped it off and connected it back on to test, still reporting 15+ volts.

It showed a peak of 17 volts when driving around, this could be what blew up my speedo sender unit! Lucky no other damage?

A multimeter across the battery terminals and/or from the alternator output to an earth point on the chassis gives about 14.7 volts at idle which is still too high right?

I havent driven it again since reconnecting the voltage sense wire properly.

I hope the voltage regulator in the alternator hasnt crapped itself.

Although given the frayed end on the wire it's probably just an issue with that somewhere. So might have to trace the wire back and check for breaks or whatever.

I'll get some hired help on this one (Dad) as wiring does my head in!

I guess it's a plausible theory that the excessive load from the alternator wringing its guts out was causing the idle to drop off / dunno yet.

 

Although at low load cruising I was still seeing 45 degrees ignition advance which seems way too much.

The echo remains in the 20ish degree advance area under similar load/rpm conditions. So the HKS wizard box might still earn it's keep once I've figured this one out.

14.7 is about the maximum you want to push it to should be allot less at low loads , is the battery good and charged fully ? its odd that after the voltage sens wire was reconnected that it didn't drop down to a more acceptable voltage.  , starting to get to dangerous point where batteries start to explode.

surly getting a 5mm plate tapping a couple threads in it, and welding it to the front of the plenum would solve the issue ?  could even make it thinner and weld some studs to said plate if its really that cramp for space ? heaps of boys here have the skills to help if access to welder and plate isn't easily accessible to you  ??

yeah I think so , I have been asking about 4 inch wide and 5.5 inch wide . its like 10 bucks difference  between the 4 and the 5.5 . also this is per lip. so double it for each wheel for your inners and outers

so a full let will be around the 2000 /2200  mark including gst and freight roughly

ok just for an up date,

arrow want 15 inch halves $210 .with the precaution of inspecting my centres before hand , if he is happy with the quality of the build then ok to buy

41 degrees wheels wants   $195 each half + 40 for powder coating or polishing each , and a cost of 20 for shipping up from well to Auckland.

white horse industries, yet to reply .

I am probably going to try and use arrow as they are in Auckland, as this makes my life easy if I need to actually go in and speak to someone.

if anyone else have any leads to halves please let me know , I don't mind doing the shopping around : )   

Got some front lips done by 41degreewheels. Came out pretty good. I also had him polish the wheels, plus split them and drill the holes so it cost a bit more, but i think the lips were about 150 each by themselves.

choice i have sent them a email too, where are the located?? 

damn they have some sexy wheels, loving the extra deep dish work equips 01s , mmmmmm 

if you email     justin@lvvta.org.nz

he could let you know what you would have to do, ie if your design has to be approved by the TAC, you might not need to if you are using some existing centers and fitting wider bands

as normal cletus you have shone through with some very helpful information, thank you for that, i will be pricing up the halves and once i have a game plan i will get a email away to Justin to make sure my plan is acceptable . 

https://www.facebook.com/whitehorseindustries

 

Apparently cheaper with the current exchange rate then 41 degrees

thank you sr1600 , i have just sent them a email via Facebook, hopefully they can beat the quote i have from arrow wheels, 

Slightly late to this thread and I haven't read it all, but I recall some talk a while back about new outters for simmons 3 piece rims, I want to get some wider outers for mine, but was there some issue about getting them spun up?

not sure, i believe them to be an of the shelf item depending on the actual offset you require. my plan is to mill down some welded wheels, extract the center, mill it so its all tidy, grind it with the procession surface grinder to get it back to super lushness . then throw some halves at it with nice new bolts and that should be me all done and dusted.