ta63-1uzze

as always, thank you for your advice. We all here appreciate that your always helping this community out .  i wil be getting stuck into some more plumbing joyfulness today : )

I have just about finished my project’s fabrication work and I am currently doing all the plumbing and routing of hoses, making the brackets and fixtures, so that I don't have to drill into new paint for my p clamps and mounts. This is how I have come about this ask this question. I plan to mount my high pressure power steering hose to my chassis rail.i have a 82 carina, so monocoque chassis system. I would like to use p clamps and I intend on mounting the hose the entire length of the driver’s side chassis rail. I plan on drilling some 2.5mm holes and using sheet metal screws and p clamps about every 200mm.

so my question is ; is this acceptable to drill into the chassis rail for said screws ?  And is the distance apart sound about right, good for certification? , I am not sure if that is enough space or if drilling is acceptable.

Thanks for your help : )

so , here we are again , a new year, and time to get back into the swing of thing, I have been getting side tracked allot . need to get focused  . i went hard out on the mini project, and its so close to being finished, but then i got a bike. . . . 12000 rpm sounds so freeking sweet !!!

so any who, this is what i have been up to on the carina front

sump , its now real , just need to get the walls folded up so I can weld the sucker up. then make some kind of baffling I guess.

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this is the 3rd one of these I have concocted (water bridge) and yeah its not super great, shit as welding, the flat bit to miss the belt didn't go according to plan. it has been a pain in the ass trying to figure out a nice and clean way to plumb the front water bridge, the entire design from factory is very out of the norm. so this has and still is so far my biggest challenge. I may even do this again and try find some oval pipe and pie cut it . my ocd isn't  happy with the out come thus far .

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did some more plumbing, got all the vac lines done, booster done,  here is a pasanger side picture of engine bay

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and started doing some cad . .  but not with a computer, haha,  this intake pipe is a monster, its cause I chose to keep the m112 throttle body . and I couldn't find a 4.5 inch 45 degree bend and a reducer all in one. so I just thought fuck it, just stay at that size , I have the room for it, and hopefully it will make a sweet roar and awesome dort type sounds .  

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this is it in panel steel. I ran out of card board for the day. so tomorrow ill get stuck into it some more.

got some other shit done , finally got some material for my wheels, and I made a sold works design of the wheels I want but cant find. the elusive Riverge . kind of like work equips but with a bit more style . so once I have a bit more things completed I can start milling them . I figure ill get the sump done first other wise I cant stay focused enough to do to big chunks of the project at once . I always end up getting of task and starting some other half pie idea

but yeah I still have completed a few little jobs like making the heater control panel work properly, made a clutch hose up. sold some shit to buy a bike, got a license to drive it, then I got some beer, and I got a new bbq.  . . . shit getting side tracked again . mmmmm bacon .

So what’s the down low on getting fiberglass panels made?  How much does it cost roughly, anyone got any recommendations to places in Auckland ?

I’ve hacked up my bonnet to make it roughly the shape I want , and seeing as its going to need a shit load of work to make it mint now , I was thinking I may as well look into this fiberglass stuff as its going to be way lighter than my hacked up bonnet+filler

And regards to latching, and certification . what's the deal with fiberglass panels namely the bonnet ?  just bonnet pins and all good?

^ overkill for towing a trailer full of green waste to the dump, or a lounge suite home from harvey norman. Good info though

If you are towing a big boat, or a car, or horses then sure get something big and rwd/awd. Otherwise meh, just tow it and increase your braking distances.

i haven't read the whole thread, I just read a little bit and people were talking about transmissions , so that's why I ranted on a bit about that,

your right though a smaller car with a smaller trailer is mostly fine, small trips light as shit loads etc , I didn't read everything, bad habit of mine . But  "just tow it and increase your braking distances" , doesn't work for someone pulling out in front of you , or someone stepping out from behind a car etc.   

I use to work at a dealer, we did everything in house, diffs, transmissions, manual gearboxes, and absolutely everything there was no outwork to speak of. So it has taught me a thing or two about towing so with that said here is some info
For making your transmission last longer. Watch this and then read below

It’s a basic explanation, it doesn’t go into depth about the pressure system or valve body, but something to remember is that the fluid is the life blood of the Transmission; everything is actuated lubricated by the transmission fluid.

1 . get a transmission cooler ,  make sure your fluid stays nice and clean, check smell it for a burning smell , get a transmission flush, dropping the pan is like replacing 35% of the fluid in the system , it’s a half ass way of doing it . Not achieving allot in my opinion.

2 . when going up hills, driving below 50/60 km an hour, turn your overdrive off, it has the weakest clutch pack because it’s got the most load against it , if it slips a little and it will with another couple tone to drag ; this is what kills transmission fluid, it gets burnt it doesn’t lubricate as well, thus cooking the friction plates and bands , the bits of friction material start to float around in the transmission . This all in turn destroys the rest of the friction discs, and hardened surfaces/shafts, it also makes pressure leaks as it gets stuck in seals stuck in the valve body  etc. . So don’t use overdrive when towing unless you are cruising on the motorway nice and flat/ little load on the box.  and if you going up a hill and its dropping down from overdrive for a bit then back into overdrive and you are repeating this cycle all the way up the hill this is exactly what I am talking about, it’s not so bad when you’re not towing but if you dragging extra weight that there my friend is going to end up costing you

3 . Lastly if the engine isn't running, then the fluid is not being pumped around the transmission, it’s not ever recommended to tow a (not running/broken down) automatic transmission car because can cause damage and premature wear . If its got a transmission fault, towing it behind another car isn't doing it any favors. Whilst many have does this, there is a lot of variables to take into account, so whilst people have and will still continue to tow an automatic its nice to know that you shouldn't cause you might just fuck it . 

As for the original post, about tiny car for towing, my 2 cents are :  fwd +  tiny brakes = bad when you want to get out of an impending situation . . . buy a falcon or a commodore , physics will always be the winner at the end of the day

Hey mate cool clubman, they look so good with wide wheels and flares. What did you do with the metro brakes? Use mini hubs or just metro hubs with mk1 metro ball joints? Cheers

Hay matt, sorry I didn’t reply I totally missed this comment, yeah so there is a bit of trickery to get the metro shit to work,

* get the mini disk brake hub keep ball joints, steering arms etc. all mini , this keeps the right suspension angles and keeps you safely on the road.

​*get metro outer cv, the one that goes into the hub . I cant remember if you keep the mini or metro wheel bearing, mmmmm, ill get back to you on that one.

* get the conversion bolts from mini spares, the metro caliper is metric and the mini hub thread is imperial so you need this special caliper bolts to make the to fit correctly and become great friends

* get a brake hose conversion kit, also from mini spares, this makes the standard 2 hose (metro) into a single for mini. It looks funny as but it’s the easiest way to get past this problem.

* You need the metro drive flanges as this sets the offset for the metro brake rotor; this sets the rotor in the right position for the caliper

* depending on your wheels you may need to have the face of the drive flange machined as the metro flange has bumps to locate the wheel that is in the way (wheel won’t sit flush against the flange)

I have been slack over the last month and I haven't finished my mini so I can’t tell yet if I need to much around with the brake bias from front to back, some say I will and some say it will be fine, easy to just go to a local mechanic, throw the car on the brake rollers and let them tell you if they are ok for the road. They will know because they will or won’t pass wof standards

If you are going to do this conversion its actually very easy, sounds like a lot of stuff but it’s very simple once you get all the parts in front of you , makes allot more sense .

Let me know if you want more info I can take some pictures or some shit, help you out: P

i typically buy ling long , supercats, kingstar, sunnys  etc. all the budget as fuck cheap tires. and they are fine no issues at all, i have a 97 caldina shit box wagon, i use to drive to work and back, pick up parts, get my shopping etc. its a 800 buck car at best with well over 300 000 on the clock. i always buy the cheapest of everything just to keep it wof compliant and working. and i have no issues at all with traction in wet or dry. I personally treat like its my nanas car, I drive it like it cant get over 3 thousand revs, for me its not meant to have great cournering abilities, go fast, do a skid. etc  cheap tires are fine if ; and this has been said before that you  drive to the conditions, I buy good tires for the cars I'm going to thrash on and I make the daily cost as little as possible and last as long as possible.

#saveasmuchgasasyoucan

#posdaily

#notaracecar

#drivetotheconditions

that is exactly what i designed my loom to be like, but i didnt know about these lovely plugs and labels ,the best I got were some shity trade me specials that are total crap and don't plug togeather nicely.

last night I spent about 2 hour scouring the interwebz to find some conectors like you have uses, 2 pin, 4 pin, 6 and 8 pin. so thanks to some guy in hong kong i will have some soon.

did you get all new pins and plugs that plug onto the sensors ? , I feel that if I'm going to do it right like how you have done them I may as well not solder anything and get all new plugs and pins. it just looks so much tidiyer and far less of a headach later on if I get a dry solder or brokem conection

where do you get these from ?

Shit guys, that’s some quality workman’s ship. I’m going to have to step up my game, I have always made my wiring connectors in a staggered length , then written out a pin out and wire color spread sheet but this is much more user friendly, I think after looking at this thread I am going to re do my connectors . And label them too. Shit that looks good!

i have used them, best to set your gun on low/1, give it some nungas nungas , then set your torque wrench on like 80 nm, check it and wind it up till you find where its actually torqueing the nut to.  and adjust your rattle gun setting to the best position. I did find when I went to a much better quality rattle gun I had to dumb it down to the lowest setting to get the right torque

i went away from using them in the end because for my own peace of mind knowing that you torqued the nuts up helped me to sleep at night. especially on them long as days were your doing 14 jobs and you cant get of to dream land cause you cant remember if you did up the nuts on the last rush wheel bearing job.

thankfully that has never happened to me, but as i said peace of mind knowing its right was worth the extra 2 mins . I do things the same way every time , so if I haven't put the torque wrench back in the draw I know I haven't torqued the nuts, its a good system, same goes for sump plugs, and brake caliper bolts,  all ways put the spanner on the drainer, or ring end on the hub, if the spanner is on the drainer/hub then the plug/bolts aren't tight.  I may be a little ocd but I have never left wheel nuts loose or fucked an engine cause the plug fell out . my 2 cents , got a little of topic sorry

Or get an FM transmitter (get a digital one so channel selection isn't complete magic) and then just connect it to a radio that does have reception and forward it on a different channel. That way you can also connect it to other bits and bobs like PC or phone and can keep using your current ear muffs

ned that looks like what i am after, i will have a look to see if i can get a wall powered one so i don't have to battery power it. 

I'd go with Wifi at the workshop and listen to radio via interwebs. every radio station can be played online AFAIK.

we have wireless but sadly its capped ,and its mainly used for our phone system. so i cam not allowed to stream anything . 

i have tried to get away from using my phone as it get hot and uncomfortable after a few hours of cranking music. its a bit old and when its in continuous use it heats up . not burning hot but it is noticeable and annoying.

We had this problem. Get mega long wire and form into a t shape. Google it

Works wonders

have extended the aerial for the workshop radio and its working now, but to my understanding the mp3 player and phone uses the headphone cable for its aerial so here in lies the problem .

Got 3 CNC mills and 2 lathes, but we just turn it up, don't care what the boss says..... Oops that's me.......

we only cut tool steel , and when we have both machines cranking 40mm sandvic r390's the noise is so loud you cant even hear the radio when its on max. hahah, fuck i love making chips but its so much better when you got some slayer to back it up with .

External roof mount directional aerial (old wide band VHF TV aerial potentially) coaxial cable to an internal omni-directional or directional antenna pointing to where reception is needed.

As long as the cable isn't too long and losses in the cable don't outweigh the antenna gains it should improve the indoor FM signal

 

Just make sure both antenna's are useful at the NZ FM broadcast frequencies ~85-110MHz

"internal omni-directional or directional antenna" this sounds like what i need , is this the device ned is talking aobut ?    

by the sounds of it i just need to find a fm transmitter , the search will commence , hahah

thanks guys. any other bright ideas please let me know . much appreciated 

shit its been a mega busy day today, only just got home from work .

I haven't had time to read all the messages. I will have a good read tomorrow.

so got shit as FM reception in the workshop, its loud as fuck when both the cncs are going so external radio is a no go.

so I have a mp3/radio player and earmuff/headphones that I use , problem is that there is dead spots al over the workshop , so unless you are in the right shape, facing the right way, the sun is at tdc,you have blue undies on and your head is at an 6* bend , you cant listen to the radio via phone or mp3 player . . . .

so question is , what kind of magic box can I get to make the signal stronger and broadcast it in the workshop ?

we have a radio with a long bit of wire for the antenna that is next to a power supply that could be a base for said bit of equipment if at all needed ??? 

I am keen on any electronic soldering projects, I have done some in the past and made a potato powered metal detector or some shit, probably threw it out now . but anyway  . . . .   I could blunder my way through making one it if needed. or is there something I can just buy and apply power job done??

and

go

The BMC cancer is spreading. Awesome _b

good work. we are an ever-expanding group.

but in reality we are actually crazy, they don't build them like they use to . . . .  but that's for a good reason.

but I still love them . tiny we little lovable guys .aw 

so I just used a standard puller and went and bought some long unf bolts. put some large thick washers on the heads and use a dead blow hammer to shock the flywheel whilst the puller is tight, get someone to hold a pry bar on the flywheel teeth through the starter hole so you can wrench on the puller with out the lot spinning. has worked every time I have had to work on a series gearboxes/engines  .

everywhere sells pullers, they typically cost about 100 bucks for a set. and the bolts I got were very  high grade from a local fasteners supplier , not shitty bolts from bunnings etc.  

I used valve grinding kit from bnt ,it had course and soft paste , best to lap the shit out of it whilst its apart and you can stand the engine up on its end. makes it easy as to lap .

and this guy sells new lock washers etc for cheap and hes in nz so its fast to get here.

www.classicminispares.co.nz

Re tyres; http://www.avonmotorsport.com/road-legal/performance/cr500

fuck yeah !! now these are some sizes i can work with. i had not come across these in my search's . far more realistic . 245/40R15 

they even have a importer in h town, 

thank you  spiderwebfx , just what i have been looking for. ! 

 

 

ie before i just used to look at the bead area of the tyre, and if it was still touching the rim flange,  and it didnt look stupid, then i would pass it. Not very consistent because it came down to my opinion.

 

 

this is what i was talking about. there is no need for everyone to persecute me for my opinion , i am not looking to get a tiny 195 stretched onto a 10 inch rim  . but i don't want drag spec huge sidewall tires either, i don't know why this is so hard to understand . 

and yes i agree with mostly everyone regarding the camber laws, i have positive front camber from factory, and single trailing arm in the rear also, so no camber front and too much rear . hard to get away from .not everyone has the capabilities to customize sub frames or custom build arms .2 to 3- degrees sounds more than fair compromise   

its quite disappointing to read through this thread, quite allot of closed minded people looking to just ridicule others. hardly helpfully in any respect.  i though we were a much friendlier bunch then this . is a shame that I've been proven wrong. 

machine part welding? get it welded with heat treatable filler wire and get that shit treated afterwards so it wont wear out again .

roman , in short;  yes ! , I agree with allot of what you are saying , and Im by no means saying that I know how best to tackle the tire issue , but I am saying that how it currently is doesn't work for allot of people.

the reason I feel its a cop out to look to the manufactures is because they test tires on the rims that they specify for that tire, they don't say they wont work on "xyz size", or give any other data other than that. there is no threshold or maximum sizing, effectively they are specifications for standard fitment and that is it.

we have all seen the capabilities of stretch tires, and whilst I don't condone 45 degree angle side walls I feel ballooning tires is a not any good either.  

as for asking the certifier , well its a good start, they get to see the car, they have much more of an idea if something is going to be doggy because they have the car right in front of them. it doesn't take a genius to see that a 165 isn't going to be any good on a 10 inch rim etc. . . some common sense is defiantly required

at some point something has to be done, this problem isn't going to go away all on its own. it seams now is a good time for these discussions seeing as there is a internal reform currently happening.

Im really am not in the mood, and i don't know why you are attacking me on my professional level  because i am trained ,and i am more than qualified to talk about tire sizes .so lay off , you haven't even listened to why i think the rules need to change. 

i have 9.5 inch and 10.5 inch by 15 diameter . so i get something like 295/60/15 . and 345/55/15 . (55% of 345 is 190.00mm sidewall height and 80mm wider then the rim its self)  from the current chart. 

but if i got to a huge rim like 19 inch diameter i get  285//30/19 and 305/25/19 . (25% of 305 is 76mm sidewall and only 34mm wider than the rim)

here is the real chart , http://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/standards/LVVTA_STD_Wheels_&_Tyres.pdf 

so the bigger rim is less than half of sidewall height, and all that has changed is rim diameter, this is not logical, why cant i then have a smaller sidewall on the 15 ? as long as i don't lose to much in overall height so that the rolling circumference doesn't change to adversely what other issue is there?   

fitting almost 200mm of tire that is also 80mm wider than the rim diameter is silly on an old japa , its not a open body t bucket there physically isn't room to do it. 

its not logical , and placing all the responsibilities on the manufactures is a cop out considering we are paying for certification of a modified vehicle meaning that its not a standard vehicle , being it for performance driving or scratch built it makes no difference. standard tire fitment rules go out the window same as minimum height rules go out the window , and allot of other standard WOF rules also go out the window because we a have got a modified vehicle 

what i am saying is it needs to change because its not reasonable, i want to drive around legally, and i am paying for this inspection and paying to be on the roads, what is the point in paying for the modifications to be made legal if i get stuck with "standard" tire fitment rules. the rest of the car isn't standard so why do these standard rules apply ?  

i have filled out the questionnaire, i don't know if others feel the same about the tire issues ,but i added what i could in the survey 

 

The tyre rules are based on the most common fitment guidelines from tyre manufacturers. 

 

http://www.yokohamatire.com/tires_101/customizing/rim_wheel_width/

 

Basically the tyre manufacturer decides what is an appropriate range of rim widths for a given tyre size.  

yes i know all about this, what i am saying is it isn't logical and it needs a shake up. 

they have taken no responsibility and placed it all on Tyre manufactures . 

my point is what you are doing with the car is just as important as what rules apply to the type of build you are doing. drag spec hoosiers don't mix well with old low jappas 

I agree with roman, whilst I like the fact there is rules, the way they are applied to every "modified" vehicle is not reasonable. I feel its a little out dated and perhaps needs to be more in touch with what the vehicle is being used for.

whilst I don't want it to be like the uk or Australia there does need to be some change to allow for the different styles of cars that are modified.

the tire issue for me is something that is a huge problem , the way that just by changing the diameter of the rim some how magically makes the width of the tire safe is beyond my comprehension . its something that isn't going to go away. I just don't see the rules as being far and it doesn't follow any logical formula. they need a shake up

just cause it only takes a few minutes to happen doesn't prove anything . try disconnecting the amp completely and see if the fault still happens .

even if I am wrong, now you know its not the amp. this is a logical first place to start because other than the starter motor and the cigarette lighter the amp is going to be one of the next highest current drawing devices , and in a old car not designed for high current loads its defiantly the first place I would start looking .  

save yourself the heart ache and stick a fuse in it, car fires are almost impossible to put out .