mfordy
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Posts
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Posts posted by mfordy
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Sold my one for $10500 15 years ago - still kicking myself. I'd say $20K assuming it's not rotten or some barn yard find.
Not to many unrestored ones around now.
If its a UK variant then add a few more $k to that.
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Bet you can't wait to drive her... How far away is the motive power?
Busting to get out there but as you no doubt know, it's serious coin to build a quick pushrod these days so will be a few months yet
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A bit more progress.
Interior now finished
Exterior complete except stripe kit
ACME Electroplaters
Just need to fill this space now...
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3 weeks is time to bolt some wheels on?
Be good to catch up.
Haha.. Missing the bit that drives the wheels unfortunately. Still a few months away yet.
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Gutted my car is not ready to go..
Might come down and watch thou
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Looking good mate. Keep at it.
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Gotta love those rusty escort A-Pillars!..
Keep up the good work.
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If you don't mind me asking, how much did the respray cost?
PM sent
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Seems like a very short list on entries for their recent events.
Yeah numbers were down for the first round compared to last year. Not sure if weather put a lot a people off because it was crap.
Are you intending to run your Mk1?
If so, I think you might have some eligiblity problems as cars are intended to have period mods only. I think they might frown upon v6 power, toyota 5 speed and hilux lsd but you never know.. Good luck
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Thanks M_C. Busting to get it finished but unfortunately still got to fund a motor/diff etc.
Who runs the Classic Trials?Check out the link below.
Works like dial your own at drag racing where you pick a lap time and your penalised if you go slower/faster.
http://www.clublotus.org.nz/classictrial/
I was a bit dubious when I first heard about it but it's still competitive and the guys racing don't like getting passed.
Was the bolt in half cage to make it easier to comply for the road?Cheers
Yip. Will be out when I get the car certified but still easy enough to bolt in for race days.
Hoop and stays all built to current MNZ standard so can add rest of cage later if I want to get serious
Thanks
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Good video. Gutted my car is not ready yet.
What class are you running in?
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Looking good keep at it did you find decals I know a guy that has factory spec ones
The contact two_days_late gave me worked out - good guy to deal with.
He also makes a heater surround transfer for a reasonable price
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are you going to paint behind the grille satin black too? As per the factory?
Yeah, you're not the first person to spot that. Still undecided kinda like seeing the colour behind the grill.
Thanks for the positive comments though
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Looking good man - reeeeal good.
Super tidy and I'm jealous of your ability to make it look a piece of cake.
Damn this is tidy!!Will you race this in Tracer Historics?
Thanks guys.. Unfortunately funds are a bit limited to sort out motor and diff before next season but we'll see
Not sure what Tracer Historics are but intending to do a few Classic Trials meets at Hampton and Pukekohe as well as a few club meets.
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Few more pics. Coming together slowly...
Waiting on heater parts to finish off dash re-assembly
Not looking forward to finishing off the hood lining...
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im no expert but...
the welds/screws on the roof surround hold the bars in place.
Azzurro,
Thanks for the advice.
There doesn't appear to be any method for holding the bars in place which kinda surprises me - just a choice of 3 holes at each bar location. (Apparently the Mk1's had a plastic bush as well but not sure if this is the case for the Mk2's)
I guess when the lining is all tensioned up, the bars don't move.
Talking to a guy last night that reckons use 10mm sticky back foam rather than underfelt to stop the rattling.
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Before I attempt to refit my hood lining, got a couple of questions for any experts out there!..
- Do you need the underfelt glued to the roof to support the metal cross bars? Was told by somebody else they help the bars to stay in position and help reduce noise.
- Do you overlap and glue the material right around the front/back windscreen lip? Does this effect the rubber seal?
The hood lining is not that old and still reasonably flexible.
Any other advice appreciated.
Thanks
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Where did you get the tail light assemblies from and how much?
Like rocking horse shit these day to find good ones second hand.
Thanks
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To be honest I don't think that is a bad price IMO.
I converted some Mk1 Capri struts to coilovers using George Stock components c/w adjustable camber plates, adjustable gas inserts etc and that came to just under $1k by the time they were finished.
I welded gussets in after the photo was taken - essential if you are doing any track work with decent tyres
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Hey mate,
I think you are going to have the same prob as me when fitting your M16 calipers to older style imperial (Cortina/early Capri) struts which have 7/16" mounting holes.
Not sure how to solve.
Either:
1. Use 7/16" bolts and shim the holes
2. Drill/Tap struts to 12mm - not sure there's enought material to do that
3. Saw in another forum that you can buy 7/16" bolts with a 12mm shoulder. Do these exist?
hi any one know where in aust i might be able to get the correct bolts for fitting m16 calipers onto capri struts they are 7/16 threads and have got a 12mm shoulderAny problems dealing with Burtons? There's another crowd in the UK called GSEscorts which seem a little bit cheaper than Burtons but don't know too much about them.
Ya Tinas looking good by the way.
Mike
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Painting complete
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Looking good bro. I got my stripe kit from the TradeMe guy and it looks great. I'll PM you his email addy
Cheers for that. PM received
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First colour coats going on..
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Anybody know where to buy a complete Escort 1600 Sport graphics kit?
There was a guy advertising on Tardme but hasn't for a few months now.
Goodmans 69 Mk2 Cortina
in Project Discussion
Posted
Hey Goodman, these are the bolts you need for mounting M16 calipers
http://www.ebay.co.u...=item2ec42f0777
Cheers
PS They are 18 pounds not 999.99 as listed. He's temporarily out of stock but should be available end next week.