andy

I'd be happy with 10k to proceed the build on my spinner. 20k painted and road legal.

Im keen to see some before and after pics of how this turns out and also a ball park on what it costs. Im gonna need my coupe painted sooner or later and its a grey area as to what you get for your money. My wifes car needs some work also.

Cheers.

Our speedshop does Quickcar gauges and inserts if they are of interest? I dont know what style/period of car you are building but engine turned steel always looks good.

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/show ... p?t=364114

Yeah they do stretch the steel a little but I've actually found that after tig welding the new patch in place it shrinks back perfect so that's a bonus.

Alot of people seem to use cutting disks for removing panel steel and I do in tight/heavy areas but of late ive had good/better success using a good pair of tin snips.

Cheap MIGs are worst that cheap TIGs due to all the moving parts. In my experience its generally the wire feed system that plays up. I put down some company coin on a Kempi 180 mig and came away highly disappointed to the extent after it failed for the third time we returned it. Also of interst, I was talking to the Lincon sales rep a few months back and they have recently introduced a lower end chinese TIG to compete with the lower end of the market.

Those first three look to be the same machine in different packaging? They must be alright as they have been selling them for a long time. Probably the biggest question is how much use it is going to get and how good at welding are you? I used an Xcelarc $1200 machine professionally for three years and it never missed a beat.

I use a product called keyphos on my coupe. Wipe it on with a rag and its good for 8-12 months. Its also sold under the name "paint stick" or something like that. Prep wise I would use a rust kill product like Jenolite first applied with wire wool until you have a clean base then work/coat from there.

You will probably get enough heat with a heat gun. You are only trying to expand the nut pint fuck all of a mm. If this fails split the nut with a cut off disc. I'm assuming it's not a left hand thread and that you are cranking the right direction.

not sure on the chassis but it looks to have a cortina front end (and no major rust)

the body is steel and has no rust its got all the steering and brake booster and pedals still in it

and it does look to have been uses at some point.

im wanting to build a rat/hot rod kinda like this

That car probably has about 30 k in it. Would be good to see more of this type of build. However a note of caution. Some guys will be highly offended if you call their "traditional rod" a ratrod. In hot rod circles ratrod is often used as an insult.

What do you want to build? A bucket? What is the chassis you have and is the body glass or steel?

Sport will have a tachometer and sport interior. Engine will have a 32 dgv weber carb and headers. I think they all had 3.54 diff heads to.

Far out.... Nice paint! I looked at having decals made for my mongoose Cali. 12 individual decals ran at around $300. Too rich for my blood.

Cheers for the tips. I'll try with the Sika.

Thanks. Yeah he's cut it for clearance on the engine sump even though he could have just changed the engine mounts... Kinda like digging a hole under you wheel to change a flat tyre.

You're on a roll Clint! One for my coupe. The previous owner made a mod to a fixed chassis cross member with a gas axe. There is still a lot of meat in it but is this Likely to be a major? Does this fall under your cert or the repair cert?

Cheers.

Andy

I had a simular issue with a 1600 x-flow running a 28/36 weber. It was to do with the float according to Murray at weber specs and happened during acceleration and even if idling on a hill. There was also issues with a badly ground cam. Sorted it with a pair of DCOEs and a new cam. DCOEs fix everything. I can sort you out with Aeromotive fuel pumps and regs if you have the need.

Can someone in the know recommend a good quality body seam sealer for the floors on my project car? I used Sikaflex many years ago but I can't remember which one. Is the sealer best applied to bare metal or primered surfaces?

Cheers

Andy

I hope he gets it back be to be honest dont fancy his chances. Problem is, when the heat comes on they will probably destroy it. Years ago there was a Mk 1 RS2000 stolen from Browns Bay. It was a prominent, immaculate well known car. Last seen doing skids in Warkworth then gone. The burnt and cut up shell turned up many months later further north.

Any old bike shop decals? Love old decals!

Factory blue for sure. I have old pics of a blue 327 car from bitd I will post. I

IMO these are one of the best looking cars ever built. Love that you are doing it right.

So I'm looking at starting the cert process, both repair and mod. I've spoken with a repair cert guy and he quoted $100 to get started. Once I start with this guy am I stuck with him? If he is a douce or kells over etc what can I do? Hypothetical of coarse!

Who is it?

Sounds like that clint fella.

He will get a call soon as well! No questions on his (or his bosses) integrity.

Local guy from over here on the shore. I'm not questioning his reliability or skills but more just interested in what governing body he would answer too. Ive been burnt too many times on this project so like some idea of costs up front where possible.

Buzz buzz spelling bee

So I'm looking at starting the cert process, both repair and mod. I've spoken with a repair cert guy and he quoted $100 to get started. Once I start with this guy am I stuck with him? If he is a douce or kells over etc what can I do? Hypothetical of coarse!