CorollaGT

2 hours ago, cletus said:

Cert plate would need updating to match the mods to the car.

Does that mean a full recert or just a minor paperwork update? If thats such a thing

A car that's got a LVV cert for aftermarket seats (reclinable) and rails. Also was 5 seater at time of cert. Does the cert become invalid if the car gets a MSNZ roll cage and is fitted with fixed back seats/harnesses with authority card etc?

On a macpherson strut type suspenion - is there a minimum amount of thread that needs to extend past the end of a nut on the two bolts securing the shock to the hub(knuckle/carrier)?

EDIT: 'Two threads clear'

Brought a newer daily recently, $4K for a Toyota Aurion. Big heavy car but they have a 3.5L v6 with 200kw @ crank so they actually move when you give them all of the gas.

Now have a daily that is faster than the "racecar"

A cousin of mine brought one of these just before he turned 21 (would've been 15 years ago) and my oldman as a bit of a joke gave him gloves and an umbrella for his 21st. Said he'd be needing both of those with how unreliable the car would be. I believe both came in quite handy as it turned out.

Car looked sweet on similar mesh rims to that one in here.

What are people using for epoxy to bond fibreglass and alloy?

I have a spoiler that has no mounting hardware to allow it to be bolted to my boot. Thought is to glue an alloy plate with a some rivnuts underneath the spoiler to give a solid base to bolt to the boot. Not keen on using self tappers like what was done previously by the looks of it.

3 hours ago, Beaver said:

@mjrstar how valuable is your time and effort? https://www.speedscience.co.nz/product/passwordjdm-carbon-fiber-headlight-block-off-plate-honda-civic-eg/

Unfortunately they will not fit a EK Civic

Thank you sir.

Also tidying up a battery relocation. I had run the power cable along the sill underneath the plastic trims as it was an easy path / plastic trim has a perfect shape to it. Have made sure I keep it away from sharp edges etc - would you expect this to raise an eye brow come cert? Just need to secure it using some p-clips 300mm between each? Rivnuts to the sill so I can bolt/unbolt the clips would be sweet?

Whats the general rules around securing ABS wiring to struts? Fitted a set of Fortune Auto coilovers and the rear struts don't have the tabs to click the loom on. I ended up using a couple of cable ties to secure it for now.

Would this be ok? Or will I need to make a proper bracket?

1 hour ago, ajg193 said:

That's a bugger, it must have been recent.

 

Is this the part number you tried? 31340-19185

 

That's the one

On 5/20/2017 at 00:06, Roman said:

One solution is to use springs inserted behind the pistons that pushes them back out. 

Causes a tiny amount of drag but makes life less scary.

Sounds like an absolute bastard to change the pads though haha.

Or just give the pedal a couple of taps mid straight to make sure this doesn't happen. Don't know if you noticed me doing that at Taupo in January when you came for a ride. Also you can get an idea of pedal firmness.

On Tuesday, March 07, 2017 at 21:16, kpr said:

run biggest vents /lines you can.   less velocity in the pipes will drag out less oil, to start with

 

I got a weird response from the local Enzed dude when looking for -12 stuff to do breather setup. Was confused why I would want to go so big and that -6 is more than enough even for a v8

I used fuel cell foam as the media inside my catch can. Just cut a piece to the right size and gave it a thorough clean before installing. Have had the catch can apart a couple of times and the foam is holding up nicely.

Also have some of this inside the valve cover in the baffles - when looking into breather setups I found this is part of what RB guys (think Mines, HiOctane Racing Australia etc) were doing so figured if its good enough for 500+hp RB's it's good enough for a little 4AGE.

Also look at the timing belt arrangement, silvertop has a spring on the tensioner - blacktop has a hydro tensioner. Oil pumps are different between the two so unless someone has gone though the effort of swapping all of that stuff it could help ID it.

That stuff is available from Repco etc. Made by ACL.

Looks good Blake, will have to try and scrounge another ride when it's running again!

Man I would be happy as to see 110 degrees oil temp in January at Taupo. I saw 120 degrees (doing 10minute sessions in October) and that's with a 16 row Mocal oil cooler sitting in direct cold airflow and ducting.

I want to have two temperature sensors fitted to some dash 10 lines. 

 

So I've got some fittings that have a 1/8 NPT fitting in the side.

 

However the temperature sensors that I have, are too long so they bottom out before the threads get tight. 

 

Does anyone know of an AN fitting that would have a larger diameter housing than normal to fit a longer sensor?

Or otherwise does anyone know of any 1/8 NPT thread temp sensors that only have a very short nose on them?

 

I am wondering how much of the nose of the temp sensor I could actually grind off, I am assuming it's just a casing that has a resistor or something inside it.

Anyone done that before? 

How about a spacer? https://www.aeroflowperformance.com/fittings/npt-fittings/npt-male-female-extension

Engine masters on header size

Treat the 6 speed nicely by showing some mechanical sympathy and they last. A buddy has run one for years in his AE82 club car doing sealed sprints. I still have the original 160k old C160 in mine and it's done a tonne of trackdays.

Definitely replace the steering wheel. If there's no light that comes up the inspector has no way of knowing it ever had one. Maybe check for a fuse/relay and remove that too for the same reason

Being a mechanical airbag there's no electrical side - no fuses, lights etc. Basically apart from the wheel there will be no evidence anywhere else in the car it has/had an airbag.

Often these are an option too when the car was manufactured so there will be two steering wheels applicable to the chassis number

For anyone elses reference - I tested the Defi sensors and they're 5v so piggybacking them will be the way to go.

Also found someone had spent the time to collect data on the Defi sensors so should make calibration in the Link easy

http://bbs.22b.com/forums/showthread.php?8223-Defi-Sensor-Calibration-Curves

Whoops - left out oil temp / pressure!

Pretty sure the pressure sensor on Defi stuff is 5v (3pin - positive, earth and return) so I should be able to tap into that one ok. Its more the wiring of the oil temp that I'm unsure of

My car has defi gauges and a Link G4 Storm - been thinking about the possibility of incorporating the oil temp and pressure to work together so that I can do logging and maybe lower rev limit temp dependent.

Ideally the plan would be to piggyback off the Defi sensor wiring and tie it into the ECU inputs. Has anyone done this before? / have any pointers?

I don't really have the ability to easily add more sensors to the motor unfortunately

Yup it does that but I thought it's weird that number has changed from showing 7.5 to sometimes showing 7.8