tim13
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Posts
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Posts posted by tim13
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not sure if you have tried demontweeks for tyres , their pricing including shipping ended up cheaper for me than direct through toyo nz , worth a quick look , still wont be cheap though surely other brands will do something ?
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not sure about Altezas but some cars have an alternator / charge fuse , worth checking all fuses before you remove the alternator , a bit of a longshot but its a cheap/easy longshot ! good luck and lots of good advice above
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another possible alternative is , some nissans have tps as part of accelerator pedal assembly , might be able to wire in one of those ....... good luck/have fun cheers Tim
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I had this problem with a different odd sized toyo semi slick (ended up going with nitto cause they had them) toyo nz (I called them direct) were helpful but pricey and a long wait , Ewan at Hyatonka could buy direct from a japanese shop and chuck them in his next container which after freight and gst etc ended up quicker and cheaper than toyo nz , but best landed price and also quickest option was bizarely through demontweeks in the Uk ! so could be worth doing some creative internet shopping , good luck
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I would guess condenser , I have had issues with a few of the locally available ones crapping out surprisingly quickly , in my cases always drove fine then felt like fuel starve miss then stopped left for a while checked basics then would start and run for a bit then same drama again , I have had less issues with old used condensors than with brand new bosch ones in the last few years (also took me ages to find fault cause "condenser is new so it wont be that !") , good luck
cheers Tim
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there are a huge number of different/special/odd studs and nuts sold as 'nice products' through most auto supplies places although pretty sure Davie Holden in Auckland is the main/best distributor , probably worth an email or phone call at least
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hey Al ,
3.1 motor was all done by Rodger , I just installed it and got it running , I only ran it once in that form I think I did a 1.24ish in the rain , previously on a std internals L28 with webers , cam , open diff , 195/60/14 semis it used to do 1.24's all day in the dry
I will chat to Pete soon and let him know , guessing you reg drama was with o's and 0's ? (was always my mistake) , have found a picture of it widebodied narrow wheeled which you may not have seen ? , I never flat-shifted ........ but I did get pretty quick at swapping gearboxes , syncros always crunched when you were rough (I may have been a little rough) but that was before redline shockproof which seems to be magic for hard-used boxes .............. hmmm , that sounds wrong doesn't it ?
cheers Tim
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hey Al ,
dont stress too much I can put you directly in touch with previous previous owner , and if he has nothing the builder of cage , and I can probably get hold of the last guy who raced it too ! lemme know when you hit wellie and I will give ya what history I can ! also occurs to me I should be able to find old logbook number if you need !
cheers Tim
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from your description I would guess release bearing ?
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leads are wire core , with suppressors screwed on the ends , you used to be able to buy ends separately and a roll of wire lead to make your own , will still be pricey if you have to do the lot , vacuum leaks are usually pretty easy to find on these most common spot is headlight adjusters , occasionally central locking , only a few vacuum lines to engine itself which can be isolated pretty quickly to help confirm location of fault , cheers Tim
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hey buddy , m104 motors are usually pretty good . oil leak will be headgasket and/or 'c' seal on timing chain cover , should be able to get both done for about $1000-1200 parts and labour friendlyish retail , what is the rough running issue ? what have you tried/checked so far , could be wiring loom insulation breaking up , airflow meter , could be something basic too , is yours coil on plug or distributor on front of engine ? (if dizzy ; cap and rotor will have green stuff growing inside) good luck ! cheers Tim , PS ; all realistic DIY stuff if you are keen/carefull & probably not as expensive as engine conversion/certification
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other 'oldschool' trick was to remove every second impeller blade (only advisable if you have an even number to start with .......) some factory pumps used on a variety of engines are identical except for impeller , theory is you are trying to stop either too much cavitation at high rpm and/or water can pass through radiator before it is cooled properly , as mentioned above changing pulley sizes is a good way to solve lots of these issues if practical/possible/affordable
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accelerator pumps working ? if you look down carbs and open throttle how much fuel comes out ? hope that helps , cheers Tim
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protip- when using a torque wrench, stop leaning on it when it goes 'click'
every tyre shop i go to, the tyre shop monkeys are all OMG MUST USE TORQUE WRENCH OR WHEELS WILL FALL OFF, when it goes click they keep leaning on it/give it another 1/8th of a turn.
if they arent going to pay any attention to the correct torque setting, just use a rattlegun or a powerbar to snap the studs off with.
AMEN
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hey buddy , Elite in chch used to do some good work , reasonably quick turnaround too .... also Arrow in auck are supposed to be pretty good , I just stumbled on my old zed pics will actually get on to sending em to ya !
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have been threatening to do this sorta thing to the missus' tt legacy gt , will prob wait till she wants something else and I make excuses to not sell it though !
pretty much anything would be cool though 4x4 justy , Libero , caldina , rav4
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had a similar problem with my old mk2 was starter in my case but battery terminals and battery le ads can give that sort of symptom , you can use jumperleads to bypass battery leads to help eliminate those quickly , hope it is an easy find/fix
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keep in touch , sure we can sort something , and one side at a time is the way to go , only issues are seized bits and getting torsen indexing correct , gets more camber as you get lower so may tuck in nicely .........
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hi Charlie , to lower the rear move torsen bars one spline they sit nicely and still have reasonable travel , let me know if you need any advice I have done 6 or 7 ! (fronts sit captive and level with 1 1/2 to 2 coils chopped , if you want to go that way)
cheers Tim
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thanks for that , will pass on details , they are looking for a cheapish but sound repair , so sounds like Lewton could be the place to start . cheers Tim
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hi guys and gals , just had a call from some friends who need some structural rust repairs for a wof , sounds like rear suspension pickup points / floorpan areas on a mk2 escort , they are Wellington city but am pretty sure they will travel for the right deal , call or text them on 0274201000 or post here or message me and I will pass it on
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good effort , love a simple fix ! (just goes to show ALWAYS start with the basics)
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Awesome. I will look harder at the coil packs tomorrow then. I should get time to buy some sparkplugs too.
Is there a trick to removal of the three coils? They looked like they just sit there, but there may have been a single, small, brass machine screw holding each one down
just sitting there , central cover holds them down , good luck
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OK. Here is the thing I cleaned. Google says it is an Air Temperature Sensor.
Does that mean I have to go find another sensor? I know what an Air Flow Meter looks like (a big thing the same diameter as the air intake hose after the air filter)... or does the MAF live inside the AFM?
this is the intake air temp sensor , they do crap out but wouldnt give the symptoms you have , the afm and maf sensor is the same thing mounted on intake pipe near air filter , can give your symptoms but unusual to break so soon
What Semi slicks to use
in General Car Chat
Posted
I just bidded on those !