tim13

kevlar lining on sprung drive plate with heavy duty pressure plate should answer your question , pretty sure you can get one built to suit , Hi Tech brake and clutch should be able to make you something in Auckland or MP autoparts in wellington , I have used both over the years and would use either again I havent used Toda stuff but their reputation seems good (although I like having local backup , hence my suggestions)

doubled up , sorry

sounds a little optimistic , worth a try I spose . is the oil level rising ? worth checking fuel pump (engine driven ?) and breather system too because if it is getting alot of fuel in oil it is prob more than mixture being too rich

didyafixitdidyafixitdidyafixit ? always interested to hear results/solutions/tales of woe .........

prob has to stay under radar , all sorts of regulations and insurance issues , would be awesome on lots of levels but do your homework and make sure it wont/cant bite you

I have no diea haha, not sure how one would check that? Measure how much each intake valve spring compresses as the cam cycles through?

yeah , that would give you a pretty good idea (dial guage would be better) remember intake and exhaust may be different , another thing to look at is how much difference there is in tappet adjusters if one is heaps further in/out it may be a clue , also when you set tappets are you batch setting or pairs ? opposing pairs (rocking on 1 set on 4 etc) is better for acuracy . good luck !

are valves all opening a similar amount ? maybe worn a cam lobe ?

can you swap struts left to right and would that give more options and clear steering ?

is it possible to machine just the mounting half of the caliper to create room for an adapter to link it all together ?

straight edge across each tyre , spaced above bulge at bottom , measure at both sides of tyre , will give you a rough idea , should drive ok (check before and after specs when you get proper alignment to see how good you were !)

hq front discs (which are the hubs too) go straight on a triumph 2.5 stub . rears I haven't done but apparently some bmw stuff can work ok

I would be tempted to buy something cheap and customise using whatever I could find in my pile of potentialy usefull stuff (that I never use) maybe even do a time lapse vid from drive in to drive out ........ actually , I probably already have a suitable car , please nobody hold your breath , I shall aim for 7 months due to cat , dog , kids , mortgage . also I am useless with pictures (will start a build thread) but I like the idea of achieving something in a reasonable time/budget

I do like a guessing game , 140hp at wheels

dont get me wrong I actually like them , but ; coroded fuse boxes , body electrics and coding and security modules that need to recognise each other to make the windows work or engine start ........ and I still remember the rows of them with transmissions out under waranty at the local dealer !

its a p38 range rover it will fuck something with or without your assistance !

I have used a few different things over the years , I have not liked any Ebc pad (yellow , green , red) my Hawk hp plus's were not great my Hawk blues were ok but wouldnt buy again . good results from Mintex 1166 and carbon metalics from Les Hunter ...... , call Les Hunter in chch his info and product knowlege have always worked well for me , had some good advice from Racebrakes too

note; most of the cars have been running standard brakes with ducting , race fluid and good pads in front , road legal but driven HARD the right pad will have good pedal no fade and instant bite I am always amazed how much difference a front pad can make a car can go from feeling good to great just by doing a pad change

edit , the ds2500s were good too

helpful tip ; if you wish to do something rough/dodgy/poorly don't publish it on a public forum , don't include pictures or model details

also trackdays seem a huge dissapointment if you have done a midfield start with 30+ cars

at the risk of sounding like a communist ..... regular guys/girls getting payrises , closing the gap between rich and poor has gotta help . also I believe the focus on "our" next big wrc/F1/indy nzer does nothing to encourage people just having a go . fact is you can get on the track pretty cheaply but people wait till they can afford to do it "properly" and that means never for lots of em . intermarque sprints , rs cup , 2k are a step in the right direction , more events for slower cars with current wofs without cages or semi-slicks might drag a few more out , getting towards too little too late if we arent careful ..... trackdays are just so much better value than so many msnz events

it could be excessive toe out on decel at either end (toe out can encourage turn in , so too much can be twitchy) if you have non factory springs bushes etc running factory alignment may not be as good as custom settings to match custom components . good luck ..... sounds scary . also if you have new components it might be worth spanner checking too

it will be interesting to see if highlands remains exclusive long term , I remember hampton saying they were not going to allow drifting ....... that didnt last long . it is also interesting how unfinished both taupo (new bits) and hampton look compared with highlands despite highlands starting (ten years ?) later . it is my personal opinion msnz and this type of circuit development do little to improve/encourage grass roots motorsport , whilst I understand that may not be a priority as part of their respective business plans I cant help but feel this wont end well for us low buck people who enjoy driving an interesting affordable old car faster than is wise !

Man I'd rol lthat legrope wagz errday.

be careful what you wish for .................. I can put you in touch with the owner ....... Al can too

are you sure it was that Allegro estate ? there might be others !

As far as I can tell nothing at all is bent and everything looks sound.

check front too , can transfer diagonally if that makes sense ?

honda city is probably the most common one ?