tim13

you been to see an engineering shop ? looks like the sort of thing they could knock up ? time frame might still be an issue if they are anything like the guy I use in wellie !

stirling brake and clutch in onehunga will probably have something

Flicks lights on and off...

Is no-one with me on this c-mon

https://touch.trademe.co.nz/motors/listing/view/931718773

best used with a company fuel card ....... but best option so far.

teritory is a great idea , except ford dropped the ball . some friends have one dealer serviced/wofed since new about ten years old hosed underneath if its been near salt no towbar last wof failed on 6 grands worth of rust around trans tunnel !

back to thread - they also have a similar age higher k less loved (until now !) CRV no issues

Have you thought about a Ford Territory? 2wd or 4wd models and 4.0dohc goodness.

what about the rust ? may ? be better with the newer ones but the earlier ones are scary even compared with equivalent falcons

from a wof point of view you are supposed to go off the the ltnz vin plate if fitted or the pressed in number if not , so shouldnt be an issue ... but missing tags is not a great look !

if you hadnt noticed you would have been fine ! now you have so hit up the AA if you have a free tow why not ? or chuck on stands get wheels to tyre shop get car back for alignment asap , side note ; euros can be "interesting" to align so make sure wherever you go actually knows the cars , they ALL say they can do it but ......... good luck !

ummm , may have missed something in my quick read , but ; if you are getting fluid into the booster it is the hydaulic side leaking NOT the vacuum side , with a remote booster you in essence have two m/cyls one on the pedal one on the remote booster so its the 2nd one that has the issue and you should be able to hone/sleeve and match up seals .... appologies again if you had that figured and I missed it !

the man may be right vac hose issue is a possibility . if that doesn't solve it ; i have had similar symptoms on other things which have been caused by leaking fuel pressure reg diaphragms , can be hard to find if they are only leaking under vacuum . really liking your systematic approach and full disclosure of findings (so many of these threads stop without people explaining what they found) keep up the good work

Yeah, have spoken to Don in person before, he's had yarns to tenfive too. Really nice guy, has all the info on badass L6 building as he's got the race 240K and a race 240Z, does neat things with them. Zoom.

he sold the 240k and his racecar is a 260z but all true otherwise

theres a few Don Mcleans aye? or same on that spreads fert now in DVKE

just to clarify ; the Wellington based Don McLean that many would associate with racing Datsuns

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yeah , Lesters old car , used to race against him occasionally , he was a really nice guy , car was built on a budget but important stuff was done well , pretty sure Don Mclean was a mate/involved too , I know Lester was unwell (he may have since died ?) a mate of his purchased the car and stored it for a while , it may not have been raced since ..... was tempted to buy it myself a few times ! I may even have a picture of it from when I was racing what is now goats 'Z' , will post it here if I can find it

I love my au wagon cause it drives well and it was cheeeeep ......... 5800 is great money for a cortina that isnt a mk1 , 2 or 3 , if you shop around you could get an xr6 and have 3-4 grand for a decent classic too

that looked a handful/fun , couple of things to think about/try 1; thumbs up (not through spokes) I am told thumb and wrist injuries hurt like hell ! 2; if you run a little toe-out at the front the locked diff should be more driver friendly and sorting the ratio will help too . cheers Tim

really he told me $150 each rim and they don't widen they just buy center less rims and swap the center over

that is probably worth the extra ! it is a much neater/straighter/air-tight result

ratios were designed around high speed autobahn touring the motors like revs and economy doesn't suffer too badly on nz roads

diff out of a 6 cyl w126 is a better ratio and same size , little to no chance of lsd with any merc diff though but no fabrication/cert required transforms the car even behind the auto

there are at least 4 or 5 different redline gear oils , soooo many people say ; use/dont use redline like there is only one type ! I have always been happy with the ones (different types in different applications) I have used . I have been told that the thought with race type oils is they only do one event and dont like sitting or constant use which kinda makes sense

efi is great and has some advantages BUT carbs don't just fall out of tune and any form of fuel management set up for power will have economy issues , a well set up points distributor can give excellent results and has potential for get you home repairs ..... electronic distributors have great consistency but are not without their faults . as someone said earlier go with the system your tuner/engine builder feel they can get the best results from and you will be happy and have better options should any issues arise

ummmm ..... its an e30 ! if you really want one 2 grand or less should buy you a decent car with clear title and the option of test driving to make sure its ok , this exercise would be way more worthwhile if the car was more desirable . in saying that you would be doing the owner a favour cause parking tickets , towing , storage , de-reg will all go back to him (if you get , it change the locks cause owner will have the key)

na , I know the guy you bought your Herald estate from and I got the wtscc email about the PI for sale .... assuming rumours are true it looks amazing

it was for sale , someone told me today it is the one you bought. small world !

solenoid separate from starter ? if you have checked EVERYTHING else it might be the issue , easy way to test is bypass (carefully) using jumper-leads , can also test earths same way

did you buy the brown one thats been in storage for years ?

rivnuts have their place .... not sure it should be holding in your trans crossmember though ! I would look at drilling and tapping a suitable piece of flat bar