tim13

ok guys and girls , my Au currently has factory manifold no cat and a 21/2 system with a 3" tailpipe factory xr6 centre muffler and a box type resonater at the back , I have rattles from centre muffler and rear res just touches spring at full compression , noise is great at bottom and top ends but too bassey and blah through the mid . so my question is what combo to get noise better thinking of res - flowmaster copy - coby (hotdog) or two flowmaster copies - coby , or other suggestions ? trying to get higher pitch and slightly quieter if poss for $2-300 in parts (may try to add extractors too) , wow that was more writing than I thought ! cheers Tim

has been sitting a while maybe clutch stuck to flywheel ?

hmmm thats unusual , they fitted two because at least one is missing , broken or stuck from new . so yours is unoriginal/modified ...... don't people usually fit toyota boxes .......

I thought the p38 4.6 would be cheaper/easier/better than the old 4.4 these days ?

will be really funny if one of you clowns who doesn't actually want em wins ! smart move is a high auto-bid in last minute (although often countered by pannicing seller pulling the auction)

i would guess internal = combustion chamber/pre-turbo ? and external = post turbo ? baffling ...... maybe b/s I don't think so , makes a lot of sense to me (many years of petrol modding , not much diesel experience)

I think its a nz built thing based on subaru running gear kinda like an evolution of the moke , treka concept ........ but I could be wrong !

not sure if it will help but I recently had a car that with no plates etc just chassis number and they could track through that , it got interesting because we knew the car had been road legal here but the chassis number (as stamped on the car) wasn't on file ! as we eventually found out it was because it had been miss-entered when new (car was a 1999) we got a helpful person a vtnz who figured it out , I have since found I could enter chassis number into carjam and figure it out that way too , carjam as many different variations of chassis number (0 for o , 5 and s i and 1 etc . in my case they had reversed some numbers 123 instead of 231) and see what you find , good luck !

best wishes to threeonthetree , it must be serious to keep you away ! been there myself this year , mend quick mate .

agree with trying a different guage mechanical if possible (infared thermometers are also good for checking which bits are hot where blockages are etc) , if guage is electric can also be voltage related , regulator , alternator etc

too close can mean it reads the troughs as well as the peaks on the trigger wheel (can be an issue with abs) twisting while cranking is good if it is close , but it is worth finding tdc and lining up the trigger wheel gap and sensor , also just a thought as you are using distributor for sender you need to fire 4 times each rotation so wasted spark would be either zero and 180 (2 cyl at a time) or zero , 90 , 180 and 270 (4 at a time) is that all set in your base tune ? when you used points as a trigger that was 4 signals per disy rotation , earlier someone sugested doubling your input but depending on coils maybe quadrupling ? I could be overthinking this , computer based tuning is not somthing I have had much to do with . good luck

hi mate couple of ideas ; is your sensor too close or too far away giving it a confused reading ? have you timed the motor so tdc lines gap (in rotor) and sensor ? sounds like a base timing issue , and just to prove I am not always helpful , points & condensor issues seem easyer to fix ! cheers Tim

have used a teekay additive which could be left in and did a great job on making rust and scale vanish on an old primera , oil is hard to remove quickly but regular flushing gets it eventually , one issue with oil and with nonspecific for job additives is the amount of different materials they contact (copper steel alloy rubber plastic brass) so you want to know what the reactions will be cause you dont want one cure causing the next problem

another thought on your tyre drama , given it is not a common size are they just old and hard ? check date codes on sidewall maybe different factory does tread rubber feel different to your other ones ? this is first bad feedback on T1rs I have heard , I know a few people who have loved them as a combined road/track compromise too

you tried different pressures ? in my experiences with T1rs they liked lots more pressure than some other brands (5-10 psi more , up to max rec on sidewall) cheaper than more tyres nitto do that size in semi-slick which everyone I know who has tried them loves , good luck

plus one I use Hayden too , good guy good pricing good product

ooooohhhhhhhh , do I get a prize ? , glad its sorted buddy

glass that is bonded in is considered structural

Ive been "searching the net" for information in regards to fitting an SRS system to a non equipted SRS vehicle but theres sweet FA information.

Has anyone seen anything like this done befor ? Clint ?

I think the idea of retrofitting an airbag steering wheel and passengers airbag is a great idea.

It may even be something that becomes mandatory with LVV certification on certain vehicles in the future. Scratch builds maybe ? (i hope not)

Electronically its all very possible using OEM parts, but Ideally an electronics manufacturer needs to make an after market module that all the sensors plug into.

Sensors such as speed, ocupency, safety belt etc etc

beecham jags have all the airbags etc fitted , no mention on the cert plate though so I assume its a grey area ? odd though cause no crumple zone which is key to frontal impact regs on later stuff (bullbar or intercoolers etc are often an issue on Srs equiped cars)

hey Al ; is it going ? who was right / best guess ? dont make me come up there !

has spark, so probably rules out crank angle sensor, and caps and rotors

Cracked the fuel lines to the injectors, fuck all coming out

Fuel pumps are working based on the amount of fuel pissing out everywhere before the distributor block

fuel leaks ? or when you loosen ? only ever trickles out of line to injector . pull caps off for a look cause they tend to crossfire on the shit that grows in them resulting in spark but not timed so wont go how does the wiring look ? insulation falls off the wires on them !

hi Al , 9 out of 10 times it is distributor caps & rotors they will be full of green shit , clean em out if it runs ok order new , startech in auckland is your best local option . fuel distributors and injectors are almost never an issue , pumps and relays sometimes are , and vac leaks and wiring looms occasionally too ........ you wait till you get asked to sort the roof !

These ones are automatically adjusting. I think ill pull the left one apart, have a play about, and then bake the shit out of it.

it is always possible to adjust manually , it needs to be cause auto adjusters dont always adjust .... automatically , the 'baking' approach is average at best and is more suited to oil/brakefluid contaminated linings , good luck

pull other drum scuff shoes and drum with emery (sandpaper for engineers) adjust brake to suit and should be sweet

it is good practice to replace shoes and both cylinders , BUT , what you have done/are doing will be fine in most cases (life left in shoes no other leaks or seized parts , both cyls same size)