tim13

hey buddy , been a while since I played with escorts ........ (well that sentence looks wrong !) , from memory ; firing order is 1 2 4 3 and disy rotates anticlockwise ....... I think / google will know !

a bit more info on make & model might help us help you , have had similar symptoms with crank angle sensors (both stand alone and part of disy) also dodgey wiring or connecters are worth checking for including/especially battery terminals and earths . sounds like you will learn heaps through the process ! good luck

almost worth repeating !

hey buddy , pretty sure it will be the condenser , new ones are often useless , put old one back or try another new one ...... maybe even genuine or different suplier if possible . good luck

40's would be too small for a big cam'd L28, buuuuuuuddy. Not so sure I would trust that piece of info about them. Will be interesting to see how they go but I would say at a guess that they suit your current motor better than an L28 with a cam but even so, they'll need tuned regardless. Fuel & air differences mean you will not get away with leaving them closed if you want any useful performance from them.

na , 40's work great on a cammed L28 , will even run a 3.1 , absolute top end is the only area you would lose on but flexibility , throttle response and mid-range would be better than 45/8's

You can buy the personalized plate that matches your black plates then roll with them, much $$

not strictly legal , but you would be unlucky to get caught .......... I would do it (just wouldn't advise it

wouldn't hurt to have a hard copy of your booking with you , if you wanted to be extra cautious maybe even run it through a wof check first so you have the fail sheet that says cert requires update ........... of course you may pass given the amount of wof inspectors who think if it has a cert for anything it covers everything !

@kiwi808 ; that is a nice looking collection , will show the wife to prove 2 x bmx's and a mountainbike is not excessive ! would be awesome if ya have a post 26.8 is not the most common (can buy new for $40 but bike total is only $130ish so far and aiming for $150-160 finished) thanks for armor comment , figured confidence was worth having but if it feels too bulky ...... some cheapish stuff on trademe so might start there

@Tintin ; thanks for looking , will pass on the bulky armour and keeping the rest for yourself and kids is the smart move

have seen the odd broken engine bearer (alloy bit between engine and mount) on these , was not as obvious as you would expect to look at ....... am wildly stabbing in the dark with these guesses , sooooo many things that fall off mid 90's on beemers

thanks Tintin , so I have assembled most of a bike (older 20" alloy redline) have a hemet , mx pants and shirt . had a tumble last week which got me thinking about body armor ........ I have been riding a heavy freestyle mongoose cause I need a 26.8mm seatpost to finish the redline , but am thinking spares of most things will be handy , what ya got ?

are these dual mass flywheels ? e36's were , can give some odd issues ...... you checked the driveshaft couplings ? those rubber donuts can break up quite spectacularly and still drive ok

hi team , so this year I have decided to have a stab at bmx racing and joined my local club (wainuiomata , seem a friendly bunch) got myself a usable bike (20" cause thats a bmx to me even though a 24"cruiser would be smarter) and basic gear . would like some advice on body armour pros/cons if its really worthwhile for low end club meets etc , also keen to hear if others are into it , amusing stories , useful tips , gear you wish to gift/sell me ......... suggestions that at almost 40 this is probably just a mid-life crisis phase are welcome too ! cheers Tim

thats a tough roll of the health dice ! look after yourself dude ........ some of your symptoms (yours sounds worse !) sound like my medical adventure late last year (viral encephalitus , random viral blood infection which made my brain swell) pretty much back to normal now so hope you get through it quickly too

very cool cars . I may have a guy who could help ya ........ will check if he is keen and pm ya if so , also my old man is in nelson and has a tweeked 2002 172 which he is talking about selling , let me know if you want more info on it ?

metal coathanger ; usefull as exhaust mount , aerial ........ or for holding your coat !

bike brake cable ; can make a accelerator cable or choke cable to get you home .......... permanent fix !

5w40 is too thin for that many kms. Change to some 15w40 and report back.

yeah , 15/40 semi , any 'name' brand will do 245k will burn thin oil but thicker stuff will be fine and cheaper !

EDIT , Ogre , I know that is the theory/science etc but my personal experience has been going up a grade or two in a worn engine helps oil consumption as does avoiding full synthetics , manufacturers recomendations are only really for low km cars , once out of waranty you go with what works and a diy oil change on an outback is less than $100 and 1/2 hour , which is cheaper/easier than most of his other options

glad injector did the trick mine had jamex's and big rear swaybar was really happy with height , feel and handling (they were in it when I got it and had settled till not captive at all fyi) only cars I have ever regreted selling are AE82's

also remember to get good results with any cam (including std) propper timing is vital (not just lining up the dots) vernier gears or offset keys will help you get the strongest results , and you can tame a slightly too agro cam with by advancing it a degree or two or wake up a tamer cam by retarding it a degree or two . personally I am usually happier with a slightly more agressive cam than I actually need , also tappet clearances , carb settings and ignition timing need tweeking to get best results ....... good luck

it does sound like a timing issue , so if you cant program it through the ecu (I am sure its possible but not something I have played with) so a mechanical fix could be worth a try ..... do you have a few sets of sparkplugs (good 2nd hand is fine) on hand ? if the spark isn't doing its thing they get fueled up and wont fire till they dry out , which could be adding to not starting too ?

Ceramic fuses, like these?

if so they are terrible things, quite often the cure to circuits not working is to wiggle the right fuse as the contacts corrode slightly, pop them out and clean up all the contacts, just don't touch them with sandpaper, you don't want to scratch off any plating, I find a dry rag does the trick for 6 months or so

plus one to that ^^^^^^ also a squirt of crc (556) every now and then slows the corrosion quite well

when I lived up that way (3 years ago , so not the freshest info) I had good results from the Firestone at Greenlane (a rather twisted sp250 from work) and the Beaurepairs at Newmarket (my old road/track wrx which I wanted set outside factory spec) neither are very south sorry but both were happy to spend the time and get a result (they charged extra over the usual price , but I was very happy with the jobs)

would be worth grabbing an infrared thermometer (about $120 on trademe) to trace where your fuel is being heated cause its hard to imagine its just heatsoak through rail mounts ?

get the fucker dynoed you tight arse

you say that (and you are probably right) but how cool is what he has achieved with what he has available in both practical and i-t skill and some kiwi ingenuity ? higher trap speed says his method is working and no amount of dyno time would solve his traction issues anyway . also pretty rare and very cool for him to document both his successes an failures as honestly as he does (most dyno shops dont do that either)

disclaimer; I have never met Roman and personaly I prefer points , condensors and carbs

is it a gt6 box ? cause big saloon boxes are different and herald different again , worth confirming before repairing something that wont fit easily !

I have a 4 into 1 headers into 2.5" for about 10-12 inch then a hotdog type then 2.5 for another 2 feet to a turbo muffler then 2.5 over diff and out the side.

Its a 1600 xflow twin sideys.

I rather enjoy the rasp that i hear some of the other escorts on the net and also wish to drive around not setting of car alarms or attracting attention..

Sugestions please

I think the "go to" exhaust for a noiseyish but not ridiculous eskies used to be coby before diff coby after diff