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felixx

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Posts posted by felixx

  1. it has elliptical front gears for some reason.

    you mean ovalised front sprockets? I think that was popular for 5 minutes in the 80's, the theory (as I understand it anyway) was more teeth/lower gearing at the top and bottom of your leg stroke where you leverage is at it weakest... but I could be totally wrong

    Cool.. a useful piece of info.. I thought it might have been to help with gear changes.

    I will deffo pick this bike up, just need a nice 1980s chrome carrier for it. Also some nice chrome pedals as the bike has no pedals atm.

    Looks like I will begin riding a bike again. All i need is a 'stackhat' and I will be sorted.

  2. I came across a Healing Super City (1986 -87) I think it was the 2nd mountain bike on the market here in NZ (It even has curved forks). Basically a factory 10speed with fat wheels and standard bars.

    Is this cool enough for this thread (I have no pics so have a link to a pic of one the same)

    Mine is blue all over and has no carrier.

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/41954956@N02/3869730268/sizes/m/in/photostream/

    edit: It has these handlebars (non index gears too)

  3. did a bench bleed.

    Still no joy. I dunno if any of the cylinders are sticking because I cannot get any pressure in the system to get them to move.

    Hahaha the car has had more brake fluid go thru it than petrol over the last 5 years!

  4. yeah I think it is attached to sequioa 88. Thats where I will be going. Shame about the weather. I will be there in a blue subaru brighton wagon. (Cannot resolve the brakes issuein the box , time to pay someone I thinks).

  5. Hi UJ,

    Good point about checking the shoes, i will check that tomorrow, but I assume they are as the brakes were fine until the master cylinder went.

    And the Handbrake is off.

    Cheers for the pointer

  6. Hi Prozac, 1967 anglia.

    She has a hose leaving the master to a 4 way splitter. Each front wheel gets a hose and then one goes to the rear and is split to the rear drums.

    I do not believe there is a bias valve in the system.

    A Vacuum bleeder sounds interesting. I just want to get her on the road to go to the chch OS meet tomorrow.

    Have run outa brake fluid now.. Will see what comes up tonight on here.

  7. OK carrring on from my brakes issue thread.

    How much brakefluid should I need to use to bleed my brakes after replacing my master cylinder?

    I put in a NEW master cylinder.

    Began to bleed the brakes. Got thru 750ml of brakefluid so far, trying to bleed the inevitable air bubble in the system. I cannot get ANY resistance in the brake pedal.

    Doing it all the right way, starting at the left rear, right rear, left front , right front, rubber hose going into a beer bottle with an inch of fluid in it and pumping brakes till no air bubbles visible in the line. Then tightening up the nipple.

    What have I missed? Sorry to be such a noob!

    PS I took off all four drums and hit the brakes with brake cleaner and there does not appear to be any leaks at the drums.. (I took the drums off today to check)

  8. OK, does someone want to swing by my place (1km from the redwood pub) tomorrow a bit earlier to help me bleed my brakes. I cannot get any pressure in my pedal even after going thru 750ml of fluid trying to flush out any air bubbles. (the brake lines were bled dry in the past and I just fitted a new master cylinder).

    Then I can bring my anglebox to the meet.

    Drop me a text 0275 BOAT ED

    Glenn

  9. Also applying water wetting agent to the water afterwards can only help.

    I dunno the science behind it (I should I am a science teacher) but it allows the water to get even closer to the metal and increase the ability of the water to take heat away from the engine.

    Found an explanaition here:

    http://stason.org/TULARC/vehicles/vw-performance/24-How-can-I-improve-heat-transfer-what-are-alternative-cool.html

    Interesting to note that it may help displace fine sediment in the engine as well

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