M_C

On 23/12/2020 at 10:26, davidian said:

I'd love 2 of them if you have  name your price bud

How many do you need? I have one spare you can have. Freebie to get another escort working. 

Should be able to sort more if you need them. 

I have a spare nut if you still need one.

Insert engine tab A into slot B...

W50 on the back of a pinto made a bit of a juggle to fit in one piece, but GoldMember is home (again). Hopefully not too many more months to be lost before driving her at last. Gearbox sits further back than it did on the V6 so new cross member and a shortening of the driveshaft is needed, and perhaps trim on the tunnel as well.

I had bought a steel steering knuckle from Rally Design to replace my tired doughnut one. But then found I needed the short one. Sourced the correct one, cheers Pete. Looking at how rotten the old one was I pretty happy to have replaced it.

Very excited to have Felicity back in my own garage after far too long (again...)

Kids are now a whole lot older than when I first dragged her home way back in 2011! Comes in handy for steering her back into the garage.  

Will have to go back and reload some of the early pics in this thread I think.

Safely settled back at home at last.

While she was a garage ornament at a mates place for over a year I got them to do a little fabrication on their racing off season.

Worldcup cross member turned out to be a little twisted to go with the flogged out mounting holes so two was made into one good one.

lightweight cross member mounting nuts were ditched and tubes welded through the chassis rails so they are now through bolted.

Firewall to chassis rails gussets were welded in.

Heater bowl lip removed and welded up so the pinto has a bit of clearance. 

Yay! Almost ready for engine.

Just now, Yowzer said:

There's a solar panel on that tractor...

Just now, igor said:

Trickle charging the battery? Looks like it gets used at least occasionally.

Well spotted, yes tractor runs well and is used semi regularly.

Red XW is fibreglass mold, originally for bbq?

105E was rescued for rusty awesome garden art.

Green rounded ford something was dragged home for box of beers...

6 hours ago, Kiwibirdman said:

For the cam timing, the method of both valves open the same amount on TDC is the tried and true way of doing cams of unknown origin.

It should be close enough to get you running, you can always play round with the cam timing once it is going. Pretty easy to do on a Pinto and no chance of bouncing valves off pistons.

Thanks!

I put this up in the tech talk as well

and kpr suggested slightly more lift on the inlet at TDC. 3.86mm inlet lift is 3.45 exhaust lift and 103 degrees advanced. This is pretty close to same lift which is 105 degrees.

The head has been shaved a small amount and there is more lift than standard so possibly interference now. I don’t want to find out the hard way...

Thanks guys!

21 hours ago, Valiant said:

You can't time it correctly without a spec card.

I think the cam places like Kelford etc can measure it and make you a new spec card.

Or line the marks up and call it good.

The cam keyway is well out compared to a standard cam so the factory settings don’t work.
 

20 hours ago, Yowzer said:

Mark where the valves hit the pistons, then play around with it on a dyno?

 

Yeah, definitely trying not to get an interference fit with the valves...

18 hours ago, kpr said:

^  This.     very good chance you will end up with better results, than if you had the cam card and used recommended settings

otherwise i would go slightly more lift on intake than exhaust at tdc

Thanks, slightly more lift on the I left at TDC sounds reasonable.

3.86mm lift on the inlet is 3.45mm lift on the exhaust as it closes and 103 degrees advanced. Is this the sort of figures your are thinking?
 

11 hours ago, locost_bryan said:

There's a spreadsheet of Pinto cams here https://www.classic-ford.org/cfp/tm.aspx?m=20701

There are only two cams listed with 308D inlet and exhaust (neither match your other codes), but could give you some ideas for timing.

Thanks, I had found this spreadsheet, however my cam has more lift on the inlet than the exhaust and I couldn’t find many like that. Most have the same lift, and a few have more lift on the exhaust?

Wondering how I can work out the correct cam timing for an unknown specification cam?
Cam was in the mystery package 2.0L SOHC Ford Pinto I bought a while ago. It’s had a bit of head work done with some porting and larger valves. Had 48 Delorto sidies and sexy looking banananana extractors. I plan to start running it on the 40DFAV V6 carb off the old 3L Essex as I know it’s good, rather than rebuild the old Delortos first up.

Markings on the nose of the cam appear to be “308D   308D   06    9341    JG”

I have no idea whose cam it is and can’t find any references to any of these numbers.

looking at specifications for pinto cams the timing for full lift on number one intake varies from 113 degrees for mild to 104 race cams, but do not follow a linear progression. Different makes and cams tend to move around a bit.

The valve  lift is 11.13mm inlet and 10.19mm outlet at the valve with std clearance so more than standard, but not wild.
Some posts on the UK sites suggest timing it with equal lift for inlet and exhaust at TDC on #1 like this post. #http://www.turbosport.co.uk/showthread.php?t=836432
This would equate to 105 degrees which seems pretty advanced?

Here is a graph of the lift I made from measuring the valve lift. Degrees is crank not cam degrees. Lift is in thou and measured off the valve retains with standard clearance to cam.

Any thoughts or tips on where I should put the cam timing to start with?

Wondering how I can work out the correct cam timing for an unknown specification cam?

Markings on the nose of the cam appear to be “308D   308D   06    9341    JG”

I have no idea whose cam it is and can’t find any references to any of these numbers.

looking at specifications for pinto cams the timing for full lift on number one intake varies from 113 degrees for mild to 104 race cams, but do not follow a linear progression. Different makes and cams tend to move around a bit.

The valve  lift is 11.13mm inlet and 10.19mm outlet at the valve with std clearance. 
Some posts on the UK sites suggest timing it with equal lift for inlet and exhaust at TDC on #1 like this post. #http://www.turbosport.co.uk/showthread.php?t=836432
This would equate to 105 degrees which seems pretty advanced?

Here is a graph of the lift I made from measuring the valve lift. Degrees is crank not cam degrees. Lift is in thou and measured off the valve retains with standard clearance to cam.

Any thoughts or tips on where I should put the cam timing to start with?

Yay! I got some more work done and and update before another year passed! Still not flash when the update at the top of this page (6) is from 5 years and 4 houses ago. Not too bad though when one of those houses was a 2 year sabbatical on a boat with my family and we moved to a new city. Latest house does not have room for Felicity so she is stored at a friends house and it’s been far too long since I have seen her.  Thankfully the engine is home so I can make a little progress.

Have done some really important things like painting.

Then tried to remember how this lot went back together after pulled it apart over a year ago...

Bit of beer assisted head scratching and it was easier that I thought. Looks sexy front and centre and has new electronic points. Just hope it works as well as it looks? Had the genius idea of gutting an old worn dizzy and pulling the drive gear off so I can pump up oil pressure without turning the engine Resulting shell on the right.

ARP just look so good.

looks like someone has given this a bit of love? Valves look a bit larger than standard and maybe some smoothing been done?

I was happily surprised that my genius gutted dizzy easily pumped up enough oil by hand to pour out the oil spray bay! I thought I may need to get a drill on the end of it.

Perhaps an Accusump may work better?

link it into a warning/shutdown if it is triggered?

I managed to kill the Escort engine on the Hampton sweeper with lack of oil and a mate did the same thing, same corner, same day. To be fair mine probably had more to do my lack of talent flogging and old inappropriate engine (the mighty Essex V6) while he lost a sump baffle trapdoor. I didn’t even notice my BIG red LED oil warning light on the dash. Expensive day and double shuffle on my trailer to get both cars home.

https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/knowledge_base_articles/view/accusump-oil-accumulators-how-do-they-work-281
https://cardwells.co.nz/oil-systems-2/accusumps/canton-accusump.html

Hopefully above ones just out for a wash or supermarket run? 

Thin pickings on lockdown walkies earlier in the week. 

Today's rambling ride uncovered a few. 

Teddy bear sized cars

If this is outside, I wonder what is inside? 

Serial offender with a white one further in the garage. 

Favourite of the day. '46 the guy had restored 8 years ago.