Esky_addict

I put a msd dizzy in my holden, not sure if EH are wired the same but I just ran a wire from the back of an accessory fuse to the coil for when  it's running and kept the original ballast wire hooked up to power coil while cranking. I used a msd blaster aswell but any non ballast coil should be sweet.

Has it definatly got the right coil in it? Using a non ballast coil in a ballast ignition can cause problems

Yup fairly recently the text number stopped working. Sucks cos it was quite handy..

And since you all care so much I still have the surf and its 3.8 liters of manging fury.

If I have a current wof, then go for a cert do I need another wof check?

Only asking because local certifier likes to see a wof check sheet passed on everything except the fact that car has no cert.

Not sure if this is just the way he does things or not.

On 24/09/2018 at 14:39, kws said:

Slowly working on getting the Mini registered. Been calling around, and have determined the vtnz is the way to go, and Vinz are rip off cunts.

Vinz trying to charge twice as much as vtnz, and take twice as long. 

100% opposite down south. VTNZ were cunts and the VINZ joker was mint to deal with. Was just a good wof check for me, which is all a rerego is supposed to be (a side from the extra admin side of things).

Vtnz basically said that if the car wasn't completely restored minter then it would be a fail. What's the difference their names only going to be on it for 6 months lol.

Any of you guys know what these heads are? Thinking they are possibly 882s

2l time. Had similar issues on my holden turned out it was the wrong coil. Maybe ballast wire breaking down, what if you try a 12v jumper straight onto coil and see if it makes any difference

Haven't load tested battery in car but starts 173 and was starting xr6t fine, the ups battery was tested when they were taken out and all the rooted ones were turfed.

Lol yea I was oblivious to the whole impedance thing when i had the stuff in other cars I just thought that the juice couldnt keep up. Problem looks to be semi solved just buy wiring the dual voice coils in series instead of parallel.

5 hours ago, Leon said:

You're not imagining it.

 

Vehicles where there is a separate chassis with its own identifier on it, you go to VTNZ / VINZ etc (compliance place) with the vehicle, and proof that you own both identities.  They then link your body / chassis mismatch together.   They select one identity (I don't know if they use body or chassis identity) which becomes The Vehicle.  They then make behind the scenes computer notes, to ensure that the same vehicle doesn't get registered twice (so if you're using the body, they then ensure that the chassis identity isn't re-registered by somebody else using that same chassis/vin number.

I don't know how every scenario works, as I don't know everything about it.

For the Escort question which sparked the discussion:  no, you can't legally pull the identifiers off another shell.  Identifiers, plates, and chunk of metal with wheels all need to be from the same vehicle.  Otherwise stolen and re-identified cars would be even more common than they currently are.

Some good info there, Yeah I realise about the hole PNT situation, car in question is a hq holden very similar to my DP pic actually... it is going for a rerego in the new year anyway but just had me thinking about the loopholes.

I'l probably get crucified for saying this but IMO there's certain situations where pnting a car isn' such a biggie, If I know a car is legally owned as has been pntd as a means to get a old smoothie back out cruising on the road i would sleep fine at night. Victimless crime unless your a dirty theiving mongrol prick then you shouldn' be allowed to share our oxygen, I am not and am more interested in the cars than the politics. ✌

Was thinking about people for example rolling a hilux and chucking a good body on then back on the road again as the same vehicle... which I see no problem with anyway just like changing a body panel panels except they change ALL of them lol.

Or replacing a rusty chassis with a good one keeping the body's plates. Do that to a vehicle a couple times and it turns a bit like granddads axe lol

another "hypothetical" situation is someone having a dead reg car, some live plates and a subframe which may or may not have a chassis number stamped into it which matchs the also hypothetical live plates. 

yeah thats what I thought bit of a grey area aye. 

so when there is a chassis swap done on the vehicle its still identified by the body?  not the new chassis

What does a cars plates need to match upto? like would it be legal/possible to wof a derego car with live plates and matching chassis or subframe?

And its pretty simple really only need to add another earth to setup. Cheap alternative to a capacitor.

They were cutting out but after some googling last night that may be because they are DVC subs wired up to 1ohm and this amp is 2ohm stable. 

Oh yep sounds good. Anyone know of a good site to get some info on wiring subs up to an amp properly, I've dragged my old subs and amp out to chuck in hq, I haven't had them in a car for a few years and am not sure I had them wired up correctly, they are rockford P2D4-12 subs and a PRS-d1100m pioneer amp.

I'e just been having a look on the net about the different ways of wiring them 1ohm 4ohm etc

that' not a bad idea. would it kind of defy the point of a 2nd battery though as it would isolate the batterys when you need it like when the bass hits or am I missing something (VSR That is)

sweet I'll give it a go, I just take the existing positive from battery to amps and connect it up to new battery and earth the negative aye

Is there a car audio thread? anywho i scored a old ups battery from work this be allright for a second battery in the boot?

Sweet so I should be able to put a 12v jumper on there to sort it temporarily aye. Car didnt come with original coil someone had BIG plans for it years ago and striped the thing bare so was missing the odd bit.

Bump. These coils get me every time i need a new one. 

Holden still has factory resistor wire, went into BNT to get a new coil there options were C-80 or C-80r, I grabbed a C-80 thinking oh well if its not the right one ill just get a resistor to chuck in there but....

Does the R mean they are internally resisted or they require an external resistor?

I'm thinking now I'm running a 12v coil with reduced voltage hopefully causing my miss under load/acceleration 

Edit. lol just reread thread so yeah basically what threeontree said but opposite.

you beauty I tried everything even had plugs out for a look and a clean as they were a bit fouled, after reading that I cleaned them with wire brush and she's purring again now bloody rapt. 

stale fuel must of sat on top and only gave issues after using up the fresh stuff. It was fine then It was away for a few days while getting rooflining done and got it back running like poo basically.

Had me guessing i wouldn't think baked up plugs would cause a backfire like that it was backfiring at both ends under load. and would run then just drop and die randomly,

I put the original back in it loom in and it had never been modified. So still has resistor wire fitted coil is a "C80 COIL 12V NON BALLAST COIL 4 6 CYL" so looks like the wrong one aye did run mint for a while, buggered the points? 

wrong coil maybe should it be ballast or non ballast