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DrSassafrass

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Posts posted by DrSassafrass

  1. 1 hour ago, cletus said:

    Also, better having a bonnet and engine in front as a crumple zone, instead of your legs. 

    The nissan I had got written off by a drunk driver, if he was 500mm over I reckon my legs would have been mush  

    This sort of thing has had me worried for quite a while

  2. 2 hours ago, UTERUS said:

    Have an auto 2014 ILoad work van, goes pretty good and has an auto locking diff which has been handy for impromptu donuts.

    Like all common rail diesels, maaaaaassive flat spot off boost which I assume can be fixed with an iDrive throttle controller.

     

    The boss and I are hard on them, full throttle everywhere and towing heavy shit around.

     

    Things that have been issues:

    Boss had hisvan replaced under warranty because hyundai are fucking idiots and didn't know how to diagnose faulty diff carrier bearings, mine are getting noisy now too.

    Warps brake rotors every 10k.

    Something in the egr comes loose and you get an exhaust leak

    The contact for the sliding doors isn't very good and the doors often don't lock

    The battery in mine would discharge if not used for 4 days, again hyundai are punishing and don't know how batteries work so refused to replace it

     

    so, would trade again?

  3. 16 hours ago, piazzanoob said:

    well

    number one 

    stick with a Japanese car none of that euro crap

    me personally as a car mechanic get something that has the bare minimal extras on it for your liking of course.

    The more extra stuff they put on cars is more that can go wrong.

    i would recommend any 2000 plus toyota and preferably nz new. i would however stay away from any D4 high pressure injection engines that some corolla's and fielders have. much like a Mitsubishi GDI engine so you get the picture.

    here's a list i would recomend.

    Suzuki swifts

    honda fits/jazz WITHOUT CVT TRANS  accord's civic's 

    toyota corolla's funcargo's yaris altezza camry blade vitz

    nissan march tiida pulsar primera

    mazda 3 2 6 demio axela atenza  

    Hyundai getz i30 

    pretty much just post up what your interested in.

    and MOST DEFINITIVELY get the car a pre purchase insection done but not from VTNZ AA OR ANY OTHER TESTING STATION. i see enough stuff they miss on wofs 

    any MTA approved shop will be fine. 

      

    Suzuki SX4?

  4. 1 hour ago, Ranter said:

    I believe the Blade is no dearer than an Auris going by the yearly running costs, because no effort needed to move it I guess, some are oil burners though.

    All cars mentioned are good, I always suggest a Hyundai Getz because five grand gets the youngest car. I've always disliked them but the 1.6 ones are like a different car to the 1.4, we have both and service a fleet of them, reliable as.

    hyundai getz is tiny though?

  5. bear in mind that I am in trouble already because I said she couldn't just walk in and pick the one she liked the most. Apparently the guy working there said they were all great cars and I'm an asshole for suggesting some extra research.

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  6. So a nose to tail killed wifey's car so looking. Budget 5-7k, Mainly for commuting 100ks a day Tuakau - Auckland and back. As usual super reliable, safe economical. Thinking 1500cc 1o 1800cc would probably be ok. Looked at a few Nissan Tiida, Honda Fit, Toyota Ractus?? Answers and opinions welcome. Thanks all in advance!!!!

  7. ya checked all that. at 360k I was overcommited.  Bought that blue caldina in the end, paid $2100. Had heaps of service records and the like. Slight steering shudder but will get that sorted. Looked at s few Accords but I use it to carry my tools and timber for odd jobs so they would have been ruined pretty quick. Anyone know if my towbar from the 93 caldina will just bolt off and straight on the newer one?

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