Rhyscar

We have a T50 bolted to our 4k in the rally car. Only reasonable to expect t40 to bolt to 4age...

Cold slicks are very slippery. I always do a clutch dump burnout on the way out of the pits to get rid of stones and get a bit of heat into the tyres...

Just vent it to the atmosphere back into the intake is just going to reduce the octane rating of your fuel charge with oil fumes.

It won't spew oil out you might notice a little residue every so often and get the odd wiff of oil vapor while stopping at lights etc but nothing much. Just make sure both vents are well baffled (should be from factory)

The rocker cover and crankcase shouldn't be under pressure at any stage. The oil is forced out the journals etc under pressure and free drains back into the sump. Increased pressure inside cavities will mean more vapor in the blow by and also be less efficient for rotating parts inside the engine at higher revs. Hence why it's a good idea to vent these together.

Running the crankcase at a vacuum is even better.. Although you really need a oil pump rated for sucking out of a vacuum as most pumps don't like to pump from below atmospheric pressure. You can buy ones that will such as a dry sump pump but that's another story

Breathers on the crankcase are awesome. by equalizing the pressure between the crankcase and the rocker cover and venting this to atmosphere will be a massive improvement. Essentially helps keeps pressures in the engine constant so any leaked compression doesn't cause valve stems etc to leak prematurely. Also is essential for high revs..

Look at bike engines they do everything best.. and they have massive crankcase breathers.

if you talk to someone at autolign/racelign they will custom valve your bilsteins for whatever spring rate and damping rates you want.

You pay proper money for this around $700/corner but the results are definately worth while.

^^ exactly. There is no difference in the bottom ends.

In my experience the 16v drives a lot nicer and the 20v is a lot more peaky but of course has more power. If your going itbs and aftermarket ecu on a 16v it will out perform a standard blacktop I'd say.

If itbs can be done for the cost of buying a new 20v engine (which I'd have to add that there aren't many good ones out there anymore) then itbs on the 16v are the way to go..

Awesome! Now drive it daily plz.

try the nitto nt555's I've run them on a couple of my cars now and they are a great price and have heaps of grip. Quite a stiff sidewall similar to a Bridgestone and also has dual compounds with a harder edge for camber wear.

in comparison before the nt555s I had eagle f1s on my daily. They were a lot more compliant with softer sidewalls but overall grip levels are about the same.

How it went to the sandblasters..

How it came back...

Really happy with how the interior came out it's so nice having it tidy and all the same color! A good canvas to start from.

So now I've got a massive job of stripping all the underseal and sealant out of the car in preparation of seam welding the chassis. Main reason is cause I want to do it properly but also cause the chassis was fatiguing in a number of places. Really makes me understand where the strength in the chassis is and where I could cut weight out if it wasn't going to be road legal..

got a few mates around the other night and turned it on its side. The chassis is so light maybe no more than 200kg with nothing attached to it..

This is where I'm up to now - ready to flip back the other way for ultimate working height/comfort..

Heating all the seams to get the sealant out from between them.

Seam welding and cutting lots of holes in panels to come next!

Progress has been made.. been stripping it back to a bare shell so it can be sandblasted. Reason for this is to tidy up the whole body and allow everything to be painted mint.

Rear windows out

Pretty much made a massive mess of my shed pulling everything apart. Need to spend a good day water blasting all the dirty crap that came out

I bought this seat off dad for the passenger seat. It's a racetech 4000 so the ol d 4009.. has been re foamed and covered not long ago so is in brand new condition. Only issue being the blue gel coat.. have stripped the seat so I can paint this black after I get back from holiday.

Got doors and panels sandblasted. Didn't realise how much bog was in the front panels. These ones are rooted so I've sent my spare set down to get blasted which look to be in a bit better condition.

Really happy with how the blasting came out did an awesome job and will def make the painting process easier.

Gutted you've had more issues with your engine.

May I suggest a 2zz or f20c?? Bang for buck cheaper than rotangs, way more reliable and better for all round motoring enjoyability - screw rx7 class were everyone needs massive $$ to be competitive and just do hill climbs and club racing events.. it would be more than capable.

There's nothing wrong with preloaded if you have a shock with adjustable bump and rebound so you can control it properly.

Here's my 2c. Don't worry about the bumpsteer etc it will be fine (travel probably isn't enough to cause an issue).

Preloaded springs aren't ideal I would consider taking a angle grinder to them to achieve the right height. Although keep in mind you'll be increasing your spring rate (less squat off line).

Why I think this will work is that with the preloaded springs the force exerted when weight is transfered to the front is greater (spring rate measured in displacement from resting position ie kg/mm or lb/in etc) essentially the valving on your shocks is not able to control the movement of the car body as it is unloaded and therefore uneven amounts of traction between tyre and road are experienced.

With less preload in the springs it will transfer weight slightly slower and your shock then only needs to worry about the weight transfer of the car, not a preloaded spring also (assuming weight in car will transfer quicker than spring will unload, either way the force will be less)

Also locking diff/plate type diff will make massive difference. Torsions are pretty much shit the way they unload when weight comes off them.

I've got a spare piper cross filter in my shed I'm not using anymore. Pm if you want.

Check your valve clearances. From memory they are .25 and .30mm (someone should correct me if I'm wrong). have had clearances issues before with blacktops. Also I would check head bolts as Dave mentioned.

Although they have many valves there's nothing about blacktops that is rocket science (except for porting heads Fuck that shit) the compression has to be going somewhere. if above doesn't find anything try a leak down test with your compression tester fitting onto a compressor.

It has a lot to do with how much movement there is in the exhaust as well. If it isn't bolted in at least 3-4 locations then it will always split a gasket on heating/cooling/hitting the ground etc.

I never use gaskets anymore for exhausts. Just sealant

Also with the extractors I had similar issues with mine. Best solution I found in the end was to just use some 300 deg silicon and not worry about a gasket.

and when I say some I mean quite a lot... like 1/4 of a tube each time I took it apart with a nice thick bead around the outside.

Starting with a fresh clean face and a bit of warmth in the extractors then layer the stuff on and jam together then run the car at idle for a few mins then leave overnight to cure.

With the oil cooler sandwich plate you'll find if you take off the filter spacer and thread it directly into the block it is long enough.

Hey markku may as well put some times up from the ae82.. 4age power!

Puke new 1.14.8

Hampton downs 1.13.9

taupo track 1 1.41.8

manfield 1.16.7

More to come I'm sure.. molds for carbon doors are finished now

Would really prefer not to make another one jase!!

Yeah true they were just a line. Probably wouldn't look that bad. What about a small pin stripe above the split? I love pin stripes on 2 tone cars..

Yeah you'll need a minimum of a club sport license (apply online and do basic test about flag colours) and get your authority card done before cert as they need to record the authority card details on the cert info.

Haha dw was just joking bout the cert plate was just amusing how similar my car was when I got my cert/cage done.

Thanks guys has been heaps of good suggestions I'll research stepping the rail back and if relocating the linkage will work.

I have a bracket that moves the linkages underneath the manifold rather than on top of it. Don't need it anymore if you are interested in going that way.

Yes could be interested. Do you have any pics of it or when it was installed?

Having long stems on the injectors is Viable.

I looked at spacing the linkages but it needs to go up a good 25mm to clear a fuel rail and it would mean it would work on a funny angle and probably not get the full sweet on the throttle cam. I'll have a look and see if this can be rotated to suit/keep angle right

First issue is they don't make any manual windows Ae101s I know of. Also the motor and cable mechanism isn't actually that heavy maybe 1-2 kg.

This car has to be a daily-able racecar which means wind down windows are a must. Nothing worse than going into a parking building and having to open the door or feed a ticket into the machine through a tiny slot in the window..

I know it's a bit of a compromise but ah well got to have power windows and a heater in my books!

Hey guys. I'm after a bit of problem solving help for my 2zz project. Putting quads via a cnc manifold eke_zetec made for me.

I've got a bit of an issue with the throttle linkage in that it swings through exactly where the rail needs to be. Definately going to machine a rail so not limited on design options but not quite sure how to make it work.

My thoughts were along the lines of splitting the fuel rail so it has a gap in the Centre. Can run a small swagelok hose or similar up and around the linkage to join them if needed.

Other thing which would work is rotating the trumpets 180 deg so linkage on the bottom but this would involve remaking the manifold which I'm not keen on. May be possible to make new throttle housings to relocate linkage (could solve my angle issues too) but wold consider this as one of my last options..

Since I'm running outboard injection also,the fuel will come into the outboard rail first then through the inboard rail.

One of the things I'm wanting to take into consideration is if I need to consider dampening the fluctuations in the rails and if pressure variations are likely as I want it to operate flawlessly When done.

So just throw ideas around and see if we can solve my problem.