bonkas

At this stage we are thinking a bad valve but given there is also some damage on the other exhaust valves im not so sure. @RUNAMUCK I will see what other pics I have and post them up in here.

These are solid lifters, straight swap from the original Hydraulic. The cam, valves, springs and rocker assembly was assembled by kelford cams so I am sure it's correct.

Have had a catastrophic failure in my new engine build... Seems this happened because of a combination of flat adjusters, stiff springs and high lift cam, it appears the other exhaust valves show damage also (Have not had a chance to check intake side yet) Does anyone know if there are adjusters available locally that will fit straight in? This is a 4g63 by the way. I have been looking at these but reviews say they stuff out quickly... https://www.ebay.com/itm/EMPI-VW-BUG-BUS-HD-SWIVEL-VALVE-ADJUSTERS-VW-Type-1-2-3-Set-of-8-21-2031/330858969379?epid=667297488&hash=item4d08bb3923:g:8C0AAOSwdGFY3vH~ https://www.ebay.com/itm/Crane-99680-16-Rocker-Arm-Adjuster-in-Steel-3-8-Fits-Ford-FE/332880673478?epid=1340857478&hash=item4d813bfac6:g:kMkAAOSwQzJb6xUo Not sure if these would fit... https://www.ebay.com/itm/Camshaft-Rocker-Arm-Adjuster-Screw-for-Mitsubishi-L200-2-5-DiD-2005-2015/182290486900?epid=1716214156&hash=item2a715c1674:g:qJUAAOSwYIxX5Oax

2 steps forward, 10 steps back it seems... After driving home from getting a fresh WOF, it started running a bit rough and got very clickety clackety. Parked it up at my bro's house, pulled rocker cover off and found this...

Some new filters...

Vacuum pump mounted and booster working perfect! Only issue now is the boot lip has rusted out again after a previous repair so keeping it out of the weather for now.

Perfect thanks @Ranter Will keep you all posted on my success/failure.

The part numbers above are direct replacements for the 4g54's also. No I haven't tried the Tridon part yet as I am already in the hole for 4x sender units that do not work already. I will PM you my address.

@Ranter I am keen on oil pressure sender if you still have one, I will pay for postage if your willing for me to test it.

Small update again. Just got it back from having the wiring redone for my stereo, Amp, vacuum pump, fuel pump and radiator fan. Ready to plumb up the vacuum pump to make sure it works with the booster and mount it for real! Then time to get her legal.

Exactly what I would have thought also. @tortron New sender arrived from Rock Auto - Reads the same as all the other, open circuit.... Will see how it behaves when in the car.

Awesome thanks for the info @tortron I am getting no reading at all from mine, just open circuit when not under pressure. I guess I will take the plunge on the rockauto sender unit. I bought my original senders from two different suppliers and used the old and new part number - Still received the same part, I now have 3 units all with the same fault. Well not really a fault if they are switches rather then gauge senders.

Interesting.. It should be a sender unit for the gauge, not a switch. This is the direct replacement part number from the vehicle manual... It's also listed as the direct replacement for a Starion which has a pressure gauge. There is also a Tridon replacement TPS005. Rockauto also has a listing for the guage sending units and switches on the starion, this is the sending unit (or so it seems): https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=44239&cc=1208203&jsn=411 This also cross references the OEM part number. Now I am confused if I have the correct part number or all these listings are wrong, or all my senders are DOA... If anyone can hook me up with the correct part that would be appreciated.

I have 3 out of box dud sensors it seems, all open circuit. I'm finding it hard to believe that 3 brand new sensors would be bad. Does anyone have some sensors they can measure?

Yep single wire, nope no sealant or tape, just screwed straight into the thread.

@Ranter I would be certainly keen on a starion one as they list the same part for the Lancer EX (4g32) and Starion (4g63). This is the factory guage, just new engine.. stupidly gave away my old sender unit with old motor...

What do you know about oil pressure sender units? I am having issues with my brand new ones I just purchased, OEM parts, correct part numbers. I am getting very erratic readings on my guage, just does what it wants. the workshop manual specifies the resistance I should expect at with engine not running and running - I am not getting that at all. The new sender is showing open circuit at 0 PSI but it should be showing somewhere around 250ohms. I can post the part numbers when I get home if needed but I am 100% sure they are correct. The guage appears fine as connecting to ground the guage reads 0 and unplugging the sender wire it maxes out. As per my wanted thread here:

Drove it for about 30min with no faults so far... Regret pulling balance shafts out though... the vibrations are real....

An update for you guys... Just picked the car up from Coby Performance Exhausts and has a brand new 2.25" exhaust now. Timing has been advanced now so it is behaving much better and less backfires and stumbling when accelerating - I had to drill additional holes in the vacum advance unit and lock this into a more advanced position as I was on 0degress before with the distributor maxed out, moving the distributor one tooth was too far. Here is a quick video of where it is at so far: @ToMitz

Even at ~6k rpm I dont feel even the slightest bit of blowby out the breather hose, after two weeks of just having a hose hanging off the breather there isnt even any residue on the hose. The engine is brand new though so Im not sure if this will slowly get worse or how long it will take to worsen.

Hmm there is voltage on the wire to the sense pin... maybe it's a dodgy connection in the plug/alternator.. would this be a fault of no voltage on the sense pin?

I need to find the opposite for these plugs. They are from a vacuum pump and vacuum switch.

Was from a 96 Lancer

Exactly this ^ I am only using the S and L Pins and getting about 15.2v. The alternator was tested and put out ~14.5v which I was happy with but 15 just seems too high. I have had to charge this battery a few times, maybe this is the issue... Maybe if I give it time the voltage will drop as battery charges.. The battery was only at around 12.2 resting voltage when the car was started.