camo_78

good mate uses this calculator for an approximate e/t etc,seems reasonably accurate when he types in details of some of the top import cars in aussie(PAC performance etc).im working off theoretical weights for my drag project at the moment and with the motor and body combo im using the calculator says it SHOULD run a 13.71@91mph on a 26" tall tyre.obviously thats majorly dependent on final drive ratio too though

http://www.richmondgear.com/112901.html

the wheels dont do anything for me either,but im a big n littles kind of guy when it comes to hot rods .however,he has done one thing that i have always wanted to do,exterior is patina/rough/original,but the underside is immaculate

plans are in motion for my drag car,its a couple of seasons off yet so in the mean time next season im going to throw the sport down the strip for shits and giggles.and PBDRC do still run the twilight meets at the start of a seasons racing,i ran my daily at a couple,cooked the clutch at the 2nd meet but 1st meet it went all good,not fast at all but i was only out to have fun,no break records,lol

Flip the leaves and get air shocks. Iv flipped the leaves in my ute and with air shocks it rides lush compared to other flipped leaf setups I have driven with std gas shocks

would that setup work in a escort van too??

and whats the PCD on these vans??hijets are 4x110

is yours a 4 speed or 5 speed?

I had a super carry, and I would never had changed the diff ratio, it was so sweet, perfect for busting round town in, even batter with the super wide feet, actually like driving a go kart, it felt it was never ever going to tip over.

was the same with my old daihatsu hijet,had 215 50 13 yokos on it,bastard thing used to take corners at 80 that a normal car wouldnt do at 50

long time reader first time poster .its looking good,and on the subject of the transam-esque rear flares,i think you should at least get them painted up to match the car,i think it could pull them off,especially with the nosecone

had to go back 4 bloody pages to find this thread,lol. anyway, still working away on it.these pictures were taken a couple of weeks ago but had'nt got around to putting them on a computer until now.

early stages of a boot install.yes,i know,not exactly oldschool but i like a nice tidy boot and if that means making panels up so be it .i also apologise for the picture size,imageshack is changing and confused me :/

bought this grill for cheap to try,am getting a mint one from Karl(i500gt) so this one will be hung up as its missing a big chunk on the top drivers side.

 

since these pictures were taken ive finished the sub box(under parcel shelf),finished customising the rear flares,and primered a few more repairs.will try get some updated pictures in the next few days

 

tell me im an idiot here: //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?showtopic=32763

 

done my registration,payment to come as Karl knows,possibly a plus 1 to come when the mrs makes her bloody mind up

i got 13x7s with 215/50 13s on the hjiet,but hijets have a bigger guard cut than the suzukis on the front so that is probably too wide to fit :/

if your front brakes are good enough rumor has it that these things can do nose wheelies under heavy braking! haha

 

 

they're not kidding,i rebuilt the front brakes on my old hijet and that thing would touch the front bumper to the ground quite regularly,lmao

damn it,this makes me want to fix up the rusty daihatsu hijet behind my garage .what wheels are you thinking??

im only going on what ive read on the Xfalcon forums in Oz,but i believe if you have the basic 2.77 ratio diff then no other ratio parts are interchangeable with it(i have said diff in my XF :/ ).but apart from that i believe all other ratios are interchangeable axle wise etc.

KK is right though,steelie gears or similar would have the definitive answers for you

youll be pushing it to get the back that low,ive got the back of my van that low by flipping the centre leaf in a pair of sedans springs and theyre arched the wrong way as a result :/.im not saying it cant be done,but i can almost guarantee itll cost you.front wise my van is running compressed springs and EE80 corolla rear inserts which puts the front Xmember just on 100mm from memory.i cant guarantee those inserts are actually whats in there though as it was done before i got the van(a few friends have owned it over the years,im the idiot thats keeping it )

TL;DR:JUST SLAM IT!!!!!

back of the alternator i would assume,ill have a look at the wiring in my van and let you know tomorrow

i like you choice of colour .im eventually going to do the mk5 the original blue(the lighter metallic blue they came in),but with a nod to the ozzy cortinas

im going to take a stab and say its the wire for the battery light on the dash

i can see what you mean by higher now with the flares .and i feel your pain with regards to sanding,just after i got the sport i spraycanned it black,im now paying for it by having to sand it all off again *facepalm* .you sticking with the blue or changing it to another colour entirely??

Karl is a GC of the first degree,have been buying cortina parts off him for years .at this stage it looks like the mrs wants to come with me,so should have 3 spare seats in my mk5 cortina

i have 2 1/4" on the mk5 sport with a single muffler.its not loud but as NZford can tell you,it has a nice note.im far from an expert on exhausts though,i took it to Mark at pitstop hornby(ive known him via friends for a few years),and basically said"i want something more performance orientated but not obnoxiously loud, and NO fart cannons",cost me 425 inc GST all up

the ones im using follow reasonably close,fronts are almost even the whole way round,rears are a little out near the bottom but you have to look closely to notice

IMO keep the flares as bolt ons boss,waaaaay easier to repair if someone rubs something on them(shopping trolleys in the case of my mk5 sport).have you found you need to slightly notch them at the bottom to clear the doors??im running foxton/aerotech ones on the mk5 and ive had to notch them on the bottom as well as smooth them down to match the height of the sheetmetal where it folds into the door shut

for battery bracket in my pudjit I have a 6mm thick bit of flat bar under the floor with 8mm threaded rod that goes upand flat bar over top of one of those euro spec semi sealed lead acid batteries with the breather hose (which goes down through the floor) also have a plastic battery box over top.

mega flat bar under acts as a good earthing point also.

i like this idea,may have to steal it

Been self employed my customers would stress if I take a week day off so would prefer Saturday morning up Sunday arvo down

Although I could always arrive late or leave early if you guys want 2 nights.

id be keen to do it this way,although come home late sunday night so can at least fit in a full day of activities on Sunday

also, when there isnt a spec for something, it doesnt mean its possible to use an old coathanger or a hot glue gun to attach an engine/whatever, there is a requirement that everything has to be done to a tradesmanlike standard and be fit for purpose.

a good point,the amount of people my mate used to have at his old workshop that wanted a wof with a bungy cord holding the battery was ridiculous.im think a 30mm wide aluminium strap with m6 bolts would be sufficient??or would i be better with a steel strap and/or bigger bolts??

and Joker raised a good point,the mk5 has the back seat in,but theres no solid wall as such between the boot and the seat,unless a large sub box counts as a firewall?

I thought Mx5s batteries were already in the boot.

Mk5 cortina sport mate .and cheers Yowzer,thats what i had been told but wasnt 100% sure so figured the wise heads of OS would know