Ridal

Ok thanks guys. If anyone would like them they are in Christchurch. Free dollars.

I have these old car seats but no idea what they are out of. Does anyone recognise them? They are sprung and made with some kind of organic fibre cushioning. 

Pics are small but will update soon: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1MPmJxIKj_2qaQWv-zKQ6mmIyf4m8fx3F?usp=sharing

I've had a bit of a shocker with the wheel offset that I had my slicks mounted to and they rub on the guards. If anyone in Christchurch is able to swap the tyres from one set of rims to another before travk day on Monday I'd be happy to reimburse you for your service.

027 327 6181

I'm not a big fan of VTNZ either for the same reason. The closest AA is in Rotorua though. Hopefully Mr johnnyfive can help me out.

Yea that's the one. Looking at the AA inspection sheet I'd be happy with something like that. It looked reasonably comprehensive with a compression test, interior/exterior etc. Do you work at a garage? I'll send you a pm.

DB8 Integra

I'm looking at buying a car in Whakatane and would like to have a pre purchase inspection carried out before I make an offer. I'm in the SI so it's not so easy to go and check it out myself. I would have preferred to use AA but they don't have a garage out that way. Can anyone recommend a garage that offers pre purchase inspections?

Thanks,

Ridal

I'm having trouble with getting any signal from the outputs of the amp. It's a Pioneer GM-X84 (4x35w). I couldn't find a wiring diagram/user manual but found the pins were marked on the circuit board. I wired it up using only channel A to power the front two speakers. It has a 12 pin Molex type plug and two rca inputs, one for each channel. It powers up fine, the light comes on and using a test light I found various components in the circuitry are receiving power but nothing comes out of the speakers. I checked the board for dry solder or blow caps but everything looks ok. Does anyone have any suggestions as to what the problem might be? Thanks in advance.

http://i.imgur.com/9EOemXU.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/wwc8NFj.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/XHiIDh3.jpg

If you keep an eye out on trade me youycan get a j160 for < $500. I was the only bidder when I paid $400 so start price is not an indication of what people will pay for them.

You will struggle to get 1k for the box. From what I've seen on trade me over the last 6 months you are lucky to get $500. Cheapest I've seen a box go for on trade me is $350. I bought one for $400. You might be able to get $700 for the engine + loom etc.

Has anyone had experience sending front cuts between islands? What costs are involved etc? Thanks.

Running 10W/40 semi synthetic. The thing that's troubling me is that in the space of two start ups in a short period of time it went from low to normal to low.

To increase pressure. It's just a matter of putting a 3mm washer at one end of the spring to increase the spring force. I think it's unlikely the cause because if it was jammed shut pressure would be high and if it was fully open pressure should still reach high pressure at high rpm and be super low at low rpm.

Toyota 5K. 

I have shimmed the oil pump pressure release valve and all was good, running 1/2 on the standard gauge at max pressure. When cold it would be on max at low rpm as determined by pressure release and come down as oil temp increased as you would expect. Recently it would start low when cold and slowly work its way up to max pressure as the oil warmed up. More recently it has not reached max pressure and only increases slightly with rpm.

I hooked up a mechanical gauge to see what was going on and it was 30-40 psi (low-high). Turned engine off. Started engine 15 mins later and quickly went up to ~70 psi which is what I would expect the release valve value to be. Now it is back to 30-40 psi. I just changed the oil and filter using a genuine filter and engine flush which has made no difference.

I'm thinking a blockage somewhere but I'm not sure. Any ideas? 

If its easy to get a drill square on it you should be able to drill it out enough to start a tap to get the last of the thread. Well that's what I did when a bolt seized and snapped in my bonnet and it worked.

I've got a few spare seats in the wag from the chur if anyone needs a ride.

Good day for it. QCR disappeared from the rear vision pretty quickly on the drive back. Might have been the smoke screen though.

Has anyone given it a go or know what it costs for professional service?

im looking for standard springs for wof etc and my licence, not aftermarket or lowered ones thnx .

Mine cost $100. The certifier didn't mention any need for plug welds.

My brother pranged his Integra on the summit road last night at around 12:30am, about 5km around from the sign on the kiwi heading towards gebbies pass. It was not in a drivable condition so was parked up at a small lookout area. After picking me up we went to check on it at around 3am and it was all still there. On the drive back we noticed a white HiAce oncoming which most likely was the culprit. The van was lowered on aftermarket rims, tinted and had a small bullbar on the front similar to this: http://images.trademe.co.nz/photoserver/full/308863370.jpg. Possibly a slightly later model than the one in the picture. This morning we found it in the same spot minus the following:

Yea I'm putting a 4.8 in my wagon to and calculated new rpm to be just under 3800 at 100 with 185/55/14 - T50. I just calculated percentage change in diff ratio and multiplied by current rpm. About 17% difference between 4.1 and 4.8. Shouldn't be too bad on the street and will help get you in the power band sooner. Going from 13s to 14s took away a bit of the peepyness so I'm hoping to get it back.

I have the same problem. It feels like air in the system and improves if I stamp real hard on the pedal. I've adjusted the rears, bled system multiple times (fixes problem for a short while) and replaced wheel cylinders. Master cylinder isn't very old either. Hoses don't seem to be in bad shape and the calipers don't seem to be leaking. I'm upgrading soon which will replace most parts so I'll see how that goes.

^This is what I thought and tried to convince the retarded office lady at SQA but she wasn't having a bar of it. The certifier is the one who decides if your engineering is up to scratch and the LVVT rules tell you what parts need to be crack tested. I'd agree with Bling and say it's probably something to talk to the certifier directly about. As long as your not trying to fit your LCAs on a trophy truck I don't see why it would be an issue.

Once again my engine is not in my car and I'll miss another meet. Looking forward to Skope though. The gravel car park is mean for skids there.