187inc

Yeah I'm just exploring my options at the moment, and pretty glad I asked! I'm not a fan of doing things cheaply (twice) so will see what I can come up with 

1 hour ago, cletus said:

Is it for an escort?

Have had many of those be a problem.  Pedal construction, and the strength of the box itself are the main issues. Often the cheap ones are made of quite light weight steel that flexes, which you cant really see until its bolted in the car and bled and you can get some force on the pedal

Yeah Escort. Do you know which brand ones have been weak? Ideally would like one designed to bolt straight into escort and for the most part they look quite similar. I might email BP and ask what thickness they make theirs out of. 

6 hours ago, cletus said:

And don't buy a cheap shit one. There's a lot of rubbish available 

Tilton, wilwood, ap racing etc are usually good.

 

What should I look out for? Decent cylinders or do you mean the actual structural integrity of the thing? (was looking at Burtonpower, as they are pretty cheap and a couple of others things I've seen them make look pretty good (and you can opt to upgrade the cylinders to girling). Most of the available options would be from overseas so I can only gauge quality from mostly rubbish photos.

14 minutes ago, antz said:

Hey man, the VIRM doesnt have it as an exclusion: https://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/virms/in-service-wof-and-cof/general/brakes/service-brake-and-parking-brake (see table 8-1-1) which means it'll have to be certed.

Looking at LVV standards: https://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/standards/LVVTA_STD_Braking_Systems.pdf , section 2.2 verse 23/24:
A low volume vehicle may be fitted with one or more proportioning valves which are purposely designed for automotive applications.
A proportioning valve which is adjustable from inside a vehicle must have the facility to be temporarily disabled or locked into a position of normal operation to prevent unintended changes in front to rear brake balance occurring whilst the vehicle is being operated on public roads.

Based on this it looks like it can be done if certed. I think? Hopefully someone else will be able to confirm.

 

Yeah this was basically what I had gathered. Needing certification doesnt phase me, just keen to get a bit more clarification before biting the bullet only to find out it can't be legal. 

Hey guys is it legal to use an adjustable bias pedal box in a road car? Not one with an "on the fly" adjuster, just one which can be adjusted until a good balance is reached and forgotten? 

Edit- found in LVVTA 35-00(02)(Braking systems) - still unsure. 

"An adjustable balance-bar assembly which actuates twin master cylinders 
must:
(a) be capable of being securely locked into position to prevent 
unintended changes in front-to-rear brake balance; and
(b) in the case of balance bar rods within a custom-built balance-bar 
assembly, be manufactured from a material of:
(i) appropriate strength; and
(ii) suitable diameter;"

I would also be of the opinion that in that 3-400hp in an escort is maybe over the top, and that it would be far more drivable (and fun) with money spent on suspension/brakes than massive power. I would rather hoon around than vapourise Tyres any day. 

Personally I'd try find a motor you like the sound of and tune accordingly, as with any old car they are not very good at keeping noise out. Whether this is a monster port rotang or big cam piston or whatever really depends on your taste. 

Obviously this is all subjective so feel free to completely ignore my opinion. (heck I do that pretty often too). 

2 hours ago, Kiwibirdman said:

Diff specs in pukekohe or diffs r us in otahuhu. I've used both and been happy.

Thanks! I shall check them out.

Hey Guys/gals

I'm looking to get a diff rebuilt for my Escort, and am looking for a specialist to do it for me. 

Can anyone recommend someone in the greater Auckland region?

ch-chur.

Jeremy

4 hours ago, nzed said:

u can toss it any way u want, but they're still ugly as fuck and an utter waste of cash spending money on. 

I'm sure you spend money on things some of us would consider a waste, leave him be. 

Would also +1 wheelfixit, delt with them a bunch of times through work and they do a good job. 

39 minutes ago, scooters said:

do I use a flexi long block on gay ass roof/bonnet shapes (think vee dub) 

Yeah can do, or just a smaller block. The idea being you want to sand a bigger area, feathering out the sanded area (wherever your bubbly paint/whatever is) so it creates a smooth transition between layers. If you are taking the whole thing back to bare metal a DA would be faster, but too much sanding in one area can create a surprising amount of heat and warp your panels. Really depends how bad the existing paintwork is, and how far you want to go with it. 

I would also avoid paint stripper, unless it's on removable parts/panels so you can control where it end up easier. 

Would recommend getting a long block and some P120 velcro strips, itll hoon through whatever paint you have on there, and won't give you rippley panels which is real easy to do when just using a DA/orbital. 

is there any reason the lining cant wait till the car is moving?

The hoodlining wraps around the edges of the windscreen & side window apertures, so cant put the glass in until it is in place.

Think Greg comes up relatively often if it's not urgent it would be worth waiting for. Shoot him a PM.

Whats his username?

Lol, yeah If I have to get it towed I will most likely have a go at it myself but trying to find an alternative.

Location in the title, Auckland. Hillsborough to be specific.

I'm trying to track down an auto upholsterer to install a hoodlining in my escort. The hoodlining ost quite a bit to get made so don't want to try myself & stuff it up.. Also want to avoid having to tow the car to an upholsterer and back.

Anyone know someone they recommend?

Cheers

Ordered some last night from:

http://danstengineering.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&path=59_61&product_id=176

Got the last set in stock of that size.

Only other places I could find that had the hose only wanted to sell large lengths.

Anyone know where to buy fluoro lined silicone hose in small quantities here in NZ?

Or know of another fuel resistant hose as an alternative? Need some for carb/intaje joiners. 44mm ID.

Just downloaded the trailforks app (free) havn't used it yet but from what I've heard its pretty sweet.

reverse psychology and judgement call both hard slogs back up! glad i'm not on a downhill bike heh. I tried release valve when it first opened and the start was good but mid/end had no features to play on.

I'm hoping to get more rides on the old trails before they disappear. not sure how much are open during the week though with the logging?

this a good site for checking out trails

http://www.trailforks.com/trails/1-night-stand/

Yeah my last advice to my flatty was to do exactly that, sit down & test each wire/plug individually.

The bike fires up sweet first time, runs for about 2mins and then cuts out instantly. Will crank over and spark but won't start again for ~20 mins.

We initially thought it was the ignitor box giving up, sourced a 2nd hand one and it hasnt made a difference.

Doh, sorry were In Auckland. Yeah I'm pretty convinced its a loom issue, although still seems unusual. Dont think finding a FZ750 loom would be that easy, and if found would still be 30 years old.. Might have to remake from scratch.

My flatmate has a Fz750 which is having electrical issues, and were looking for a good bike shop to take it to. Has anyone got any good suggestions?

Just seen this thread, been getting back into riding in the last ~9 months or so. All my old riding mates live overseas now though so keen to J.I with some group rides if there's any takers.. Have been at Woodhill recently but done a lot of riding in Vegas. Did the Dawn2Dusk there a couple of weekends ago which was cool, had never done the skyline trails before. Took a few deeeeep breaths to hit The Fuzz haha. Used to ride at Riverhead a bit but it'll be slops at this time of year I imagine. I like to ride anything & everything, prefer down like everyone else but havnt got a DH bike, ride an "Enduro" bike if that's what they're called this week..

For those still wondering about guns, I have a couple a Devilbiss GTi Pri-Pro (great for priming obviously as 1.8 setup) a GTi Pro Clear (1.4) which is sweet for 2K or clear coats and a couple of w400 Iwatas that I use for all basecoats -by far the best of the above for laying down metallics/pearls and clear coats where tighter areas could easily lead to runs if you aren't careful. 

Take off the door trim and have a look at the door skin from the inside?

If that doesn't reveal the culprit then you havnt got much choice but to keep digging.. Who knows whats under there, may even find MH370

At least being a removable panel it would be piss easy to strip/dip/blast should you need to. Whatever is going on under there will need sorted before any repair/paint happens anyway so might as well have at her.

My 2c.