187inc

Love your perseverance man! A lot of love and learnings going on. One tip for the spot putty (pinholes/chips/whatever) is to buy a pack of single sided razor blades, and holding perpendicular to the panel, scrape the excess putty away (once its hard) The less you have to sand the flatter it will be come clear-coat time.

1 hour ago, cletus said:

Not usually something that can be certified 

 

Because of the extra leverage on the mount points they often end up cracking the arm 

Ages ago I did a cert on a lifted Colorado that had spacers, I put a gopro on the top suspension arm and it flexed an alarming amount with a ball joint spacer fitted 

Thanks that's exactly the clarification I was looking for. Definitely doesn't sound worthwhile.

Ball joint spacers.. looking at replacing the rear leaves in the Hilux with some slightly higher heavy duty ones (40 or 50mm max-more for load capability than lift). If the front end is drastically lower once this is done I was thinking about winding the torsion bars up to get the front end closer to the rear height. I've read ball joint spacers are popular to correct the angles which winding the T-bars up will create, and prevent the ride from becoming harsh. Are they legal? They would only be maybe 25mm. 

Edit: 2003 4WD Hilux if that matters.

Are they currently painted/powdercoated/raw? Pics may help.

+1 for blast then paint.

Could paint strip them if on a budget, but would be time consuming and messy, and need precise prep before painting.

Blasted & painted the below some years ago, still look mint.

Wasn't someone on here making these? Would rather support an oldschooler than kiwiplates.

Trying to find a supply of vehicles that are destined to be turned into fridges. Dead rego, crash damaged, basically anything. Want them for training purposes for the Fire Service. If anyone works in the wrecking industry and might be able to help please get in touch!

9 hours ago, Pelo. said:

TX3 on ROH what a combo!

Snapped! Did you do the race also?

9 minutes ago, NickJ said:

Is it cost effective testing old standard injectors or just replace with new?

Seen a couple of prices around 150 for clean/test/orings etc, new seem to be nearly 100 each.. will have another search around but not all too familiar with what I'm looking for and there's a myriad of options out there. 

Hey guys, this is very much below the scope of this thread, but thought it would be a good place to ask..

I'm thinking about getting the injectors in my daily cleaned & tested, there's nothing wrong with the way it runs but it's getting on now and has likely never been done.

Is there anything else I should look at doing at the same time? (Done plugs leads etc)

Just want to keep the old girl happy.

'91 Laser Tx3, 1.8 dohc.

Just did a trip Akl -> Hawkes Bay & back in our '05 v6 Highlander, managed to get down to 10.1 L/10km which I was pretty happy about, 4wd/AT Tyres, 2x people 2x mountainbikes & tonnes of gear. Was being mindful of the right foot though, minimal overtaking etc. Went up once we were there, gravel road adventures etc

First Gen Highlander, 05,06,07 with the 3.3 V6 and 5speed auto. Not the most economical but go hard for what they are. 4wd but drives like a car.

1 hour ago, igor said:

Pretty sure it is possible to buy new Escort shells now. No idea how good they are. Reports vary.

https://mst-cars.com/models/

Pricey but they look pretty sweet. Would grab a whole fleet for da bois if I won lotto.

Just binge-read through pretty much your whole build, very jealous of your skills! looks like its going to be awesome once its done. Keep it up!

6 hours ago, 63Ragtop said:

Not chrome bumber oldschool, but so much 90s nostalgia.

 

Reserve met for max nostalgia.. 

https://www.trademe.co.nz/3012016182

I've been seeing these little fuckers everywhere since stumbling into this thread the other day.. 

Was a 2 door with different colour panels/spoiler/rims parked on my road the other day, no pic cos walking dog with no phone... 

... Fml

Hey Team, I'm down in Rotorua for the next few weeks at least, and just realized my WOF is a week overdue.. Doh! Anyone got any suggestions? 

I think that if the other party is trying to do something dodgey (or even contemplating how they're gonna do so later on) getting the cops involved is a good way of making them drop their sacks, so is worthwhile. Also why people think they can drive around without insurance (or with circumstances that void it, Wof, reg, boozed) grinds my gears. Compulsory 3rd party should be a thing. 

In terms of the "fixing if the repair is up to 100% of the value", this is new to me (I'm working in the industry) as far as I'm aware 75% is the general limit they go to before it's a write off, there may be some special circumstances that change that slightly, but not to anywhere near 100%..

8 minutes ago, HighLUX said:

Yeah 2nd moreys diesel additive as actually working. My 2LT surf was way happier running it and could actually get up the Kaimais without dropping out of 3rd gear

Also Proma MBL8 works magic for a bit of bearing rattle or mitsi lifter tick

Have also used MBL8 in an old Audi Coupe with good results. Was very sceptical considering the price tag.. But hey, sorted out those little men with hammers under the bonnet in no time. 

Roadtrippin in the mighty Laser and this beast parked next to me, absolutely mint, can't believe they took it on a gravel road. 

16 minutes ago, xsspeed said:

/EB falcon wag slammed on turbos

Nothing about that even resembles a crisis.. 

15 minutes ago, xsspeed said:

S4

C55/63

VE ss wagon

I'm biased but a vw r36 is a lot of car for the money

E55's are getting cheap and will get that hairpiece airborne in no time! 

Just at Wattle Bay and saw 3 older dudes rock up in 3 sequential generations of MR2.. The supercharged Aw11 was sick, the second gen was.. Tidy, the third gen... Yuck. Anyway they looked like they were having a good time. No pics cos beach. 

Hey guys, I apologise if this has been asked/answered a million times.. Asking on behalf of a friend who has just bought a car. Its certed for lowering and larger than factory wheels, the wheels are munted and he's thinking about buying some of the factory wheels as they are cheap and plentiful. Will this be an issue cone Wof time? Can you prove that they are factory diameter/width/offset and avoid having to re-plate? Thanks in advance.