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vivaspeed

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Posts posted by vivaspeed

  1. Not sure if it's been said here or not yet, but I read something from Subaru the other day saying the first BRZs will be landed here by December '12 and will be under $60k - yeah probably $58,999.

    $60k

    FFS that's a lot of money for a not that impressive car. I would have thought the FT86/BRZ should be around the $45k-$50k mark. Look at US and JPN prices and covert back to NZD and we'll be getting ripped off. Even the MX-5 has become hugely expensive for what it is.

    That said I do want an FT-86. I saw one in the flesh in Tokyo a couple of years back at a show and they are cool.

    Anyone else have any pricing info on these?

  2. Awesome that someone from oldschool bought this.

    I was watching and very ready to buy but I already have enough Vivas and insufficient garage :(

    There are things that can be done with the 1256 and using the 1159 engine heads, raise compression etc.

    There used to be a common conversion to put a 28/36DCD on them (or a DGAV type thing off a Ford), also the over the rocker cover DCOE setup.

    I have some books by Coburn and Blydenstein about tuning these engines and apparently with some pissing around with heads and cam you can get an extra 10 bhp out of them - that's like 25% more!! Can scan and email relevant pages?

    Datsun A12/A15 was also transplanted into them with relative ease.

  3. Yeah maybe was the 2 door hc, but yeh it was white with the black strip on the bonnet. def the same one.

    That was owned (may still be owned) by a guy Murray - top bloke. The 2.3 in it originated from me about 5 years ago when I wanted cash to buy a house - has got Chev 307 pistons, high comp, angry cam, rare CF electronic ignition and started life on injection but he converted back to carbs. Loads of torque from zero RPM. Had a W50 Toyota box behind it.

    The white 2 door wasn't my car originally, but was very tempted to buy it from him for the engine and general awesomeness.

    I have a rule though against buying back stuff I've previously sold :(

  4. Anyone got any recommendations for good places to get a diff overhauled / new bearings / shim and set up backlash etc?

    Took it out a while back for some mig-lock action and after a couple of events it's making a "I'm not happy noise" so I suspect I failed to re-assemble properly and it is slowly eating itself. I might just take it out and reset it myself, but needs bearings etc so don't mind sending off to seek professional help - at least that way it's done correctly.

    Was thinking about taking/sending to Geartech in Palmy as they are well regarded but maybe someone closer to home?

    It's an Escort 'English' diff BTW.

  5. funny engined commy

    That would be one of those random "Royale" models they sold for a short while IIRC. Had a different grill and the opel 2.5 as previously confirmed.

    Holden VS II Commodore Royale (1998): version of the Holden VS Commodore sedan, built in Australia and sold exclusively in New Zealand. While in similar specification to the Calais also sold in New Zealand, the Royale featured the front-end of the Holden VS Caprice, the alloy wheels from the Holden VS Berlina and 2.5-litre X25XE V6 engine manufactured by Opel. These cars sold in very small numbers through Ebbett Waikato dealerships in 1998 as they were a cancelled Singapore order which could not be sold in Australia but were compliant for sale in New Zealand. Earlier versions of the car were sold in Malaysia and Singapore as the Opel Calais, in both VR and VS series cars, although the VR models featured the 2.6-litre Opel straight-six in lieu of the 2.5.

    Holden VT Commodore Royale (1998–2000): version of the Holden VT Berlina sedan, built in Australia and sold exclusively in New Zealand.

    Holden VX Commodore Royale (2000–2002): version of the Holden VX Berlina sedan, built in Australia and sold exclusively in New Zealand.

  6. Did anybody ever answer your questions?

    If you want some knowledge/advice about electrical stuff / wiring regs / how to do shit I can give you some pointers but I can't legally do work for you (not registered sparky) although can do work if I find a sparky/inspector to sign it off (I'm an elec engineer so can design and specify but not legally install :( ). Do my own stuff but not for others.

    Also have hookups at wholesalers for bits (plus have heaps of 2.5mm TPS cable spare for power points etc).

  7. Don't need carpet Alex - just adds extra weight!

    Also, if your HB mate down there needs a bootlid I've got a few spare I think, might need a prep/highfill/paint but they are straight and rust free. Maybe the black one off the yellow beast? got a bit of surface rust but not pitted or bent.

    Don't have quick access as they're at the old mans place now but could eventually get one to Welly and then across the drain to the south island.

  8. I am just finishing up renting a lockup at a place in Gracefield, 24/7 access, good place and a few cars guys there. I'd recommend it but could be a bit far away if you live in city.

    Not that cheap, but okay overall. It's a workshop type place too so you can work on cars, a lot of storage places don't like that.

    http://www.gpi.co.nz/html/Storage.htm

    Also, just noted you said you wanted to spend fuck all. Possibly not what you're after.

  9. The old chestnut that is Class A reg...

    A car is, and will not be an ATV. However, there used to be a way to put a passenger car on exempt class A without re-registering it as a different category of vehicle.

    Had my Viva on it for a while until I put it on hold. It is registered as a car, but was under exempt A licensing not the standard one (G, I think).

    Got a letter from LTNZ earlier in the year saying they were changing rules and only an ATV or certain earthmoving equipment/off road equipment could be licensed under A and that at the next time I bought a license it would need to be back on G. They made it quite clear that it was not suitable for passenger cars.

    Heaps of guys used to put class A reg on their race cars and A frame them around / dodgy drive. There was a clause in the conditions of the licensing rules that said the vehicle could be used on the road under class A "for purpose of inspection or repair" - I kept that page in my glovebox! You just had to know a mate with a workshop in each corner of the city to say that's where you were going for "repair".

    A little older and wiser I realised that the fines and consequences could be $400-$600 plus insurance hassles so I bought a better insurance policy - a car transport trailer - sorted.

    The amount I now spend keeping everything WOF'd/REG'd for only a few days driving per year makes me cringe.

    There should be a special "low use" license category.

  10. Great progress. It's looking good.

    The photo of the gearstick/handbrake closeness reminded me of mine - I cut the length of the handbrake down - from the 4 ribs on the rubber bit to 3. Just have to open it up and pull the actuating rod out and shorten by same length. Pretty quick fix if you've got a mig at home. Although how often does the handbrake need to be applied when you're in 2nd or 4th?

    Are you going to run a standard dizzy or a -GZE CAS and coil pack? Look pretty tight for a full dizzy near the turbo (or could just be angle of the pic).

  11. Harliquang ride on mower?

    Develop into ride on mower racing? Use the velodrome NASCAR style with mowers (sans blades)...

    The old man's ride on recently ran a bearing and he bought a new one, old one is knocking around and would be an excellent chassis for some conversion.

    What kind of vertical shaft small engines can you get / modify? Turbo a Briggs and Stratton?

  12. Well done on Cert.

    RE: Bushes - I have posted part numbers for someone else on here once,

    The superflex/superpro ones are awesome - got some from Stocks when they were the agent. Cost arm, leg, and other minor body parts but so easy.

    Part number cross references to something from the British Leyland stable from memory, maybe Triumph?

    Other thing you can do and I tried this once was find someone that sells rubber/nolathane/urethane rod - there was a place in ChCh that I got some from possibly Mulford Plastics, or Ludowici - and you can turn it up to suit, but its terrible to machine. Just pop your old crush tubes back in.

  13. Good luck with the cert Alex - should all be sweet with the quality of workmanship you've put in.

    Because they have 185/65 tyres I have had to do the clearance mods to my footwells as per the DTV sports part manual. It involves very careful, controlled swinging of a large hammer.

    I like your references - is that the book Tuning Vivas and Firenzas by Coburn and Blydenstein? Also tells you where to gusset everything on the chassis so it doesn't put apart due to the sheer power produced. Wheel clearance is an essential mod, mid sized club hammer works well. No fancy cut and weld necessary - just bash it until required clearance is acheived! It's always more than you think becuase if you turn in under brakes more clearance is required.

  14. 6088937010_4e6df87b35_b.jpg

    Awesome pic, thanks Truenotch. Are there event pics up somewhere?

    I think that was when I stuffed up my entry to the corner, was in the wrong place, turned in too sharp and the back came around... good fun :D

    Nicely shows new DTV door decals, drivers side one I lined up on the top line of the door, not the bottom line so it looks a bit skewed. Passenger side is better though. Vinyl transfers are really crap to put on a car.

    New 4AGE went well apart from gremlins that crept in and loosened the exhaust manifold bolts during my runs :oops:

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