vivaspeed

A little advice from knowledgeable sorts (or any others with unqualified opinions) please.

The GFs EE90 Corolla has developed a terrible hot idle problem and won't idle at all when hot (revs just drop to 300-400 and it splutters to death) - has been getting slowly worse for a while but because it didn't affect me every day I opted not to look at it until now. I think it's an air valve/idle throttle problem and when you put foot on accelerator it is like it's being suctioned closed and offers heaps of resistance, although once throttle is open its back into life (if you catch it before it stalls). Immediate thought was to check idle screw but that seems okay.

From my limited knowledge of it, and some Haynes manuals for other Toyota cars of mine, it appears to have some sort of hot idle control circuit comprising 23454 miles of vacuum line, tees, one way valves and some temperature type valves on various parts of the engine. Messed around with it today and when I clamped some lines it stalled, when I removed others it ran better. The throttle does not appear to be sitting on any idle adjust screws, and is being held in position (open or closed) by the various diaphragm actuators.

Have spent ages on the interwebs trying to find fuel/vacuum system diagrams but to no avail - it's like people don't care much for the old 2E (and I'm not a member of Corolla/Starlet/Tercel forums). Might have to make a trip to the public library for some more info.

Have made a temporary fix for now by removing a vacuum line off one of the throttle diaphragms which allows it to idle about 1,200 rpm but I'm not happy about it being not right.

Anyone got access to any Factory Service Manuals for a EE90/2E, or have gone through this before?

Would I be right in thinking one of the temperature vacuum valve things (on head / with line in and out) may have died causing incorrect vacuum to a diaphragm when its hot?

I guess just test the vacuum valves for open/closed in both engine cold and hot states?

Can I rip all the vacuum crap off and just have normal carb-ness with a throttle link and auto choke?

CBF trawling through lots of search results, so...

I have bought another Viva 2 door which I received on the weekend and the front seats have a pivot arrangement at the front and just lift up to gain access to the rear (like a Mini IIRC). There is no clamp/restraint on the back so they just sit there on some plates.

The seat has a release lever on the side and a clasp thing underneath, but there is nowhere for it to clasp onto (some had a small bar under the seat). No holes in the carpet, no holes in the floorpan, nothing that gives any hint it should hold on or that there was ever a bar there. Seems odd, seats are original (or original type with front pivot).

WOF book suggest provided the original mountings are no broken it should be okay for WOF, but seems a bit too dodgy for me (car has had WOF in this state before).

Opinions/Experiences??

I can install a small bar using 8-10mm rod under the seat so it has something to clasp onto and be 1,000x more robust, but then that would consitute a modification? Would anyone even notice?

Someone near me has a Fiat 130TC Abarth which appears to be some sort of club race car.

Attention was drawn by crisp sidedraught induction noise and twin cam-ness while going up road. Have seen it a few times going for a strop up the road and back.

May have to go for a walk and find it / say hi / stalk owner

Alex, I'll sell you a set of 13x6" alloys so you can stay legit with your cert at WOF time, then just roll steelies for the rest of the time

I'll wave farewell to my old steels if you sell them served me well but have had a hard life...

I vote 1UZ, they fit well apart from sump location, example below... Had a reasonable tunnel chop though.

Sika (I think) made a product called Carbond which was okay and reasonably easy to get hold of.

Used it on a few projects and turned out okay.

yes please, I'd love to see those tuning pages!!

Tuning pages scanned, from both 1st and 2nd editions of Blydenstein tuning book - will PM you also for emailing address.

Any other interest PM me and I'll include a copy for you too...

I may make a re-appearance. Haven't been to one since January.

Oldschool-ish car has had radiator failure since about then so might just be a daily I arrive in.

Future meet in Petone is super convenient to my place of work

You need this...

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/parts-other-makes/other/auction-484311250.htm

Will scan and send tuning pages at my leisure.

Thanks guys, gives me something to go on with.

Offpeak Automotive have a facebook page which says they do late night WoFs. Will try there if I need it before the weekend.

Anyone know of a testing station or workshop that does late night WoFs? i.e. after 5 - 6pm.

Might need a WoF before the weekend (on car trailer for up-country trip) and can't do a day trip to WoF due to extreme busy-ness, also logistics of having 5.5m trailer on car when parking at work.

I know in Auckland there used to be a testing station that stayed open until 7/7.30 on a Thursday night - that was awesome.

I have a single phase motor for sale, not sure if it would be suitable?

I think it's 1 hp.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing ... =477333390

Thanks but I really need 1.5hp+, yes your one is a 1hp.

hate to spam your thread,but is that cat in the 2nd pic about to cop a squat and lay cable?

id love to learn how to use a lathe

haha hadn't noticed that but I think the cat was pouncing on something (grey blur under LF paw) he doesn't make a mess on the floor.

Well as a completely unexpected event on the weekend, I managed to obtain a rather large piece of scrap metal, which once went by the name of a Colchester Bantam 2000. I know some people like lathes / tools / workshop stuff so decided to start a (re)build thread.

Went with a mate to buy some Land Rover diffs and the guy selling the diffs had a fire damaged Colchester lathe in the corner of his shed - some quick inspection and discussion and we had a deal for the mighty sum of one Ernest Rutherford. These were made from the 1980s through to the late 90s from what I've read and they are still made as a Harrison M250.

Although the lathe itself hadn't been on fire, the fire had melted the plastic knobs, some guards and a few other bits, but most of the damage came from the water/extinguishers, and the fact it had been stripped down and left sitting for a few years.

It's not complete, the motor is gone (plus is likely to have been 3-phase), the tool post is missing and I have slight concerns about the state of the cross slide.

I inspected the headstock, got it turning and checked all the gear selectors, as well as re-assembing the chuck to see if it was all okay. That part should be good. Sprayed heaps of CRC onto the cross slide and tail stock so will leave for a while to soak in. Some gears are missing from the screw cut drive/autofeed so I don't think I'll bother with that.

Will save the high cost bits (motor, refurb of stand, tool post etc) until the end when I know that the core bits are not too stuffed - corrosion is very light surface rust and cleans up with some oil and a scotch pad.

It will be a reasonable project (to join my other incomplete projects) but if all else fails I should get my money back on TM or from the scrappy (it weighs about 400-500kg).

If it cleans up okay and I can get a cheap 1.5hp motor and some other bits as required I might have a basic lathe for under $500.

Some pics -

Unloading into my garage, weighed heaps (manual later revealed ~500kgs) - engine crane was only just big enough to get it off the trailer.

And this is what a real one looks like...

You can probably buy new too from somewhere like Beattie driveshafts if you feel spendy.

Just went to toyota.co.jp and found some pricing:

http://toyota.jp/86/001_p_001/grade/index.html

GT version is Y2,870,000 = NZD 46,000

RC (steel wheel) version is Y1,990,000 = NZD 32,000

$48-$50k would be a fair market price in NZD I reckon for a GT model.

Also, upside down photos from smartphone = firstworldproblems

Not sure if it's been said here or not yet, but I read something from Subaru the other day saying the first BRZs will be landed here by December '12 and will be under $60k - yeah probably $58,999.

$60k

FFS that's a lot of money for a not that impressive car. I would have thought the FT86/BRZ should be around the $45k-$50k mark. Look at US and JPN prices and covert back to NZD and we'll be getting ripped off. Even the MX-5 has become hugely expensive for what it is.

That said I do want an FT-86. I saw one in the flesh in Tokyo a couple of years back at a show and they are cool.

Anyone else have any pricing info on these?

Awesome that someone from oldschool bought this.

I was watching and very ready to buy but I already have enough Vivas and insufficient garage

There are things that can be done with the 1256 and using the 1159 engine heads, raise compression etc.

There used to be a common conversion to put a 28/36DCD on them (or a DGAV type thing off a Ford), also the over the rocker cover DCOE setup.

I have some books by Coburn and Blydenstein about tuning these engines and apparently with some pissing around with heads and cam you can get an extra 10 bhp out of them - that's like 25% more!! Can scan and email relevant pages?

Datsun A12/A15 was also transplanted into them with relative ease.

Yeah maybe was the 2 door hc, but yeh it was white with the black strip on the bonnet. def the same one.

That was owned (may still be owned) by a guy Murray - top bloke. The 2.3 in it originated from me about 5 years ago when I wanted cash to buy a house - has got Chev 307 pistons, high comp, angry cam, rare CF electronic ignition and started life on injection but he converted back to carbs. Loads of torque from zero RPM. Had a W50 Toyota box behind it.

The white 2 door wasn't my car originally, but was very tempted to buy it from him for the engine and general awesomeness.

I have a rule though against buying back stuff I've previously sold

I had a place in Gracefield - good facility but a bit run down in places.

originally had about 60 sqm then got a bigger place 85 sqm had water, shared toilet and power/lighting.

http://www.gpi.co.nz/html/Storage.htm

Some others on here also have used / use it.

Yeah the hardening is a bit of a concern. Has only just started so hopefully all is okay but I do have a spare CWP for that ratio but also of unknown condition.

Playing with 35 year old diffs isn't any guarantee things will be mint condition!

Anyone got any recommendations for good places to get a diff overhauled / new bearings / shim and set up backlash etc?

Took it out a while back for some mig-lock action and after a couple of events it's making a "I'm not happy noise" so I suspect I failed to re-assemble properly and it is slowly eating itself. I might just take it out and reset it myself, but needs bearings etc so don't mind sending off to seek professional help - at least that way it's done correctly.

Was thinking about taking/sending to Geartech in Palmy as they are well regarded but maybe someone closer to home?

It's an Escort 'English' diff BTW.

funny engined commy

That would be one of those random "Royale" models they sold for a short while IIRC. Had a different grill and the opel 2.5 as previously confirmed.

Holden VS II Commodore Royale (1998): version of the Holden VS Commodore sedan, built in Australia and sold exclusively in New Zealand. While in similar specification to the Calais also sold in New Zealand, the Royale featured the front-end of the Holden VS Caprice, the alloy wheels from the Holden VS Berlina and 2.5-litre X25XE V6 engine manufactured by Opel. These cars sold in very small numbers through Ebbett Waikato dealerships in 1998 as they were a cancelled Singapore order which could not be sold in Australia but were compliant for sale in New Zealand. Earlier versions of the car were sold in Malaysia and Singapore as the Opel Calais, in both VR and VS series cars, although the VR models featured the 2.6-litre Opel straight-six in lieu of the 2.5.

Holden VT Commodore Royale (1998–2000): version of the Holden VT Berlina sedan, built in Australia and sold exclusively in New Zealand.

Holden VX Commodore Royale (2000–2002): version of the Holden VX Berlina sedan, built in Australia and sold exclusively in New Zealand.

Did anybody ever answer your questions?

If you want some knowledge/advice about electrical stuff / wiring regs / how to do shit I can give you some pointers but I can't legally do work for you (not registered sparky) although can do work if I find a sparky/inspector to sign it off (I'm an elec engineer so can design and specify but not legally install ). Do my own stuff but not for others.

Also have hookups at wholesalers for bits (plus have heaps of 2.5mm TPS cable spare for power points etc).

Don't need carpet Alex - just adds extra weight!

Also, if your HB mate down there needs a bootlid I've got a few spare I think, might need a prep/highfill/paint but they are straight and rust free. Maybe the black one off the yellow beast? got a bit of surface rust but not pitted or bent.

Don't have quick access as they're at the old mans place now but could eventually get one to Welly and then across the drain to the south island.

I am just finishing up renting a lockup at a place in Gracefield, 24/7 access, good place and a few cars guys there. I'd recommend it but could be a bit far away if you live in city.

Not that cheap, but okay overall. It's a workshop type place too so you can work on cars, a lot of storage places don't like that.

http://www.gpi.co.nz/html/Storage.htm

Also, just noted you said you wanted to spend fuck all. Possibly not what you're after.