vivaspeed

I think doing a decent drive is definitely a good thing. This is a vehicle related event after all, and being Oldschool it may result in cars not reaching their intended destination.

So, a number of things have delayed progress on this but it's now ready to go for a WOF again. Long past the 28 day recheck!

Front wheel bearings (replaced both), radius arm bushes (Torana Nolathanes are exact fit).

Steering rack rebuilt by PG Hydraulics in Auckland, new tie rod ends.

Rebuilt rear brakes, i.e. everything - drums machined, shoes, wheel cylinders, even had to replace solid brake lines as they were stuffed and destroyed themselves undoing the wheel cylinders.

Seat release catch had gone wrong so had to peel the seat and figure out how to make it work again, sorted thanks to Melbar cables and a $25 new cable with a clevis arrangement.

Was a prick of a thing to get the seat vinyl back on nicely - I will never be an auto upholsterer!

And finishing touch, a nice new Ramflo filter on the Weber - just because.

Also had to replace a headlight, adjust lights, and a number of other shitty little jobs. Raided the Viva parts pile for a few bits so no dramas.

Sweet thanks, might be a bit far but will see what I can get in before the weekend, if not will give you a bell.

You don't do Sat mornings do you???

If by some strange combination of me organising shit, and getting a WOF without repairs required, I will have a White Viva at this.

Someone giz WOF plz? Have fixed the 264726 things it failed on but don't want to take it back to the same place.

*waves fist angrily at said place*

Failing that will be in a Toyota based car as always.

Lights out of adjustment is a pain to sort unless you've got their machine. I rock up with the grill off and a screwdriver handy to do it there. Wof guy hates it...

My Lexus has light level adjustment. Is mint when towing so you don't get flashed by everyone thinking you have high beam on.

Really need a few more details to help diagnose, but could be any number of things.

Battery - is it charged and connected - how long has it been sitting, may have gone flat?

Negative lead - connected properly at both ends?

Have you modified the chassis loom, or simply added the 4AGE loom to run ECU/motor?

Does anything else work i.e. radio, lights?

Chuck a multi-meter across the main power feeds at various places and see where you lose voltage.

PM me if you want. I've got one you can borrow for some beers. Might just have to check the WOF.

Single axle, unbraked, but perfect size for 1200.

My ex-Singapore Lexus had a collection of Singaporean "gentleman's club" business cards under the back seat when I pulled it out to fix something.

Also, a mate bought a car which had heaps of gay porno magazines in the back (and I think some underpants) - was removed with gloves...

Too much upholstery in your car... needs to go on a diet. Can sell you a set of fibreglass bumpers and bonnet.

The interwebs say a 12A with gbox is 375 pounds so roughly 170kgs which is quite a bit, I imagine the turbo kit parts would add a few more kilos to it.

At that weight it wouldn't be far off a 2300 slant motor.

IIRC a GT weighs about 950 (claimed) so I would suggest yours would be 900-925kgs. Depends how much gas you've got in it!

Never weighed mine but with plastic glazing and fiberglass I would have thought about 850kgs.

This looks like it's gaining some interest - cool.

Security is a bit of a concern, more so because it's peoples houses, not only the cars/tools side of things.

Maybe do a "register your interest" then get invited if you're a known / GC? No mates on the day spec.

/nobody knows me...

So much vehicle/rego info is out there now in the public domain.

Just today saw a sign on a Castrol stand saying txt your plate and get the oil recommendation for your car, also most car parts places can bring up your details from the plate.

Would only be the personal details i.e. who and where it lives that would be confidential. You can do the opt-out thing on NZTA website to withhold your details.

*applies tin-foil hat*

I last refilled my D in 2010 because I remember having to fill it to weld something for a particular event. Prior to that would have been 2007 when I got the welder. Risk of the bottle going out of test before it's fully consumed.

Hobbyist / need to do more fabrication.

Alex builds cars/houses on wheels so may actually use an F bottle before the bottle is out of test.

I rent an Argoshield bottle from BOC and didn't think it was that much last time I got it filled.

Not sure if it's been said on here, but if you have a rental bottle you rock up and swap them on the day - handy if you run out on a job you want to finish. If you own your bottle it can take a while to get refilled I've heard, and smaller depots may suck at refilling.

This would be sweet, maybe as a OS pre-xmas run thing? Could go through the Hutt on way to Masterton.

Would be okay to open my shed up for a laugh at my projects...

I had thought about going to see Melbar. Could do with replacing the cable too so they seem a logical choice.

Was hoping someone would be instantly "oh go see xyz"...

Borg: tell more about time machine/vauxhall parts dept - sounds awesome!

Was thinking about getting a normal one and welding a washer on the back.

Drill and tap is waaaay to hard.

Tried to make the tilting seats in my Viva work properly and the mechanism in one was no longer attached - pretty much explained why it didn't work.

After peeling back the seat upholstery I see the cable had snapped and was missing a part...

I think it's called a cable barrel. It has a flat on the back of it so it sits in a lever, which is different to most designs I've seen on the internet which don't have the flat - i.e. used in carb throttle linkages etc.

Anyone got any good sources for these types of things? About 5mm diameter (or imperial equivalent)

In position (at the good end, not the difficult inside the seat bit)...

After owning several of these, I would have to say they are the biggest bag of gay in the world.

They detonate, run on, run rich and generally be a big load of carburetted shit. Our's uses loads of oil too... But they are super reliable and quite cheap to run so I'm loathe to sell it.

I have not found a cause for detonating on either the EE80 or the EE90 I've had the misfortune of owning, and also the green valve on the right hand side of the carb shits itself (source: K-Trips, oh wise one). Our one knocks all the time under load, except when you run 95 octane fuel. I think it is carboned up in the engine due to previous old lady owner. It runs on like a mo-fo most times when you turn it off.

I would check the function of the green valve, and make sure everything is connected up in the vacuum line department, most things only fit one place due to length etc.

KK also shared that the slide type carb is poos and you should get a normal type carb from a wrecker/pick a part.

Possibly not helpful, but sharing the pain of owning a 2E...

Far out, that package from Auckland had a few bits in it!!!

Can't you just cut and shut that backwards facing manifold to make it correct?

Also, looking at those heads there are far more valves than you would be used to. In fact valves haven't been the Viva's strong point so far...

I had a similar thing once, double check the earth leads - both battery to chassis and block to chassis had really poor connections where they bolted to the chassis - whipped them off, scuffed up the metal underneath and all good.

May or may not be the same.

Viva's are no longer cheap!

Cheap was $500 for 3 back in the day

I got a pallecon (pallet sized container) full of engines and workshop shit shipped from ChCh to Auckland in 2004 and it was about $175 back then. Might even have been TNL...

Your quotes seem pretty damn awesome.

KK - ta, will make telephonic communication on the day.

Any OS plans for spectating at this?

I'll probably just go on Sunday but keen to catch up with others there.