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Posts posted by Adoom
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the early ca18et blocks had no crank girdle too.
True, I have one of those too. But it's still shaped like a long block and I cbf getting it out from under the bench and stripping it. It's fucked though, the late engine is my upgrade.
I forgot about the crank girdle. This early CA18DET did not have a girdle. The late engine did have a girdle. They both have oil squirters. The CA18ET does not have squirters.
There doesn't seem to be an easy way to tell if an early engine will have a girdle. Probably not, but some early(DET) engines apparently do have them.
Best way to tell is remove the sump.
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Does the engine number have any meaning, or is it just like a unique identifier?
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I had them both to hand and wondered if there was any differences between the blocks, I thought I'd share.
The early one is one of the first CA18DET, with the cross over manifold and no intercooler, from a bluebird afaik. It has an 8 port manifold, at low revs, every 2nd intake port is blocked, so it only has one functioning inlet valve. It seems in better condition than the later one, but I think it sat for a long time with water in the block that evaporated and left crusty varnish stuff behind. The water pump would not turn and the water galleries were full of shit.
The late one is from a S13 silvia. It has the 4 port head. It has bigger inlet valves. It was cheap because it had a knock. I found that it had spun one of the big end bearings. Probably because it had NEVER HAD AN OIL CHANGE EVER!!!!!!!! The oil was like tar. Everything was caked in it. Half the lifters were seized. Poor engine.
One rod and crank journal were toast, but I have spares.
But enough waffling, here are some photos.
The casting around the crank bearings seems to be thicker.
Black = Late
Brown = early
Casting for that oil drain has sharper corners but not so rough.
The late one doesn't have the ball valve thing in the filter housing.
The casting around the crank bearing seemed thicker in the late one.
Again, it looks a bit thicker to me.
The later one has two extra bolt holes on either side of the engine mount.
The black paint on the early one seems to have held up a lot better than the later one....
Late
Early
The late one has a water jacket hole missing between 2 and 3.
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come spend more money with us!
That's the eventual plan
Just as soon as I have some.
I finally got my head all together because gf was overseas for work for 2 weeks. I only had to install the valve springs 3 times! The initial install. The, FUCK, how did I forget the valve stem seals, reinstall. And the, WTF do you mean the springs only go one way around reinstall.
I should have read the manual. HAHA
Now I'm pretty good at installing valve spring collets though.
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how worried are you about the motor?
Enough that I don't want it to fail prematurely.
Mixed up caps is a recipe for disaster, get them measured up properly when you get the machine work done. Then get them honed or align bored as needed.
I thought as much.
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Due to the passing of time and a lack of labeling...
I have a CA18DET block I intend to use. The only machining I think it needs is to surface the deck and hone the bores.
But I have two sets of main caps.... one set is from an earlier block that I am not using.
I am 100% sure which caps belong in which set, and I know what order they go in since their numbers are cast in.
Buuuuut, I don't know which set of mains caps belong to the block I am using :/
Is there a way to work this out by measuring? Both sets are standard size.
Or will I be in for a line bore and over size bearings?
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So I finally got around to working on this little trailer.
I have some rimu planks, but they are rough as and much too thick. so I asked the "builder" at work if he could put them through his thicknesser to make them 15mm.
My wood working skills are weak.
I ended up with this.
I had already oiled one of the planks, to see how it looked.
It turned out much better than I expected. SO PROUD
The box is not attached yet, I need to oil it more.
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my guess is older than new
So some time between yesterday, and dinosaurs?
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I got this beast at the British car day on Sunday. $5 from an old lady.
Reckon I can put it behind the mini bike I'll make up a shallow box on it with some rimu I have. Otherwise, I'll keep it just as it is and make a removable tow hitch on the back of the bike.
Anyone have any idea how old it might be? I can't find any markings on the frame/tires/wheels....
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I use to ride at karapodi in upperhut, the track was quite good in alot of places I was riding a XR650, I am not sure how a mini bike would handle, but I think the flat places would be fun.
Yeh, I was trying to recall how much flat there was. It starts off quite flat I think.
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Hey all mini bike riders of the Hutt.
Where do you ride?
I want to avoid riding on any roads with traffic.
I've just been riding on the Hutt River trail because I have easy access from my house in Totara Park.
I've gone as far south as Silverstream and North up to Harcourt park.
The response has been mostly positive, with looks of LOLZ and/or jealousy. I get the occasional laser eyes from grumpy looking fuckers.
I've been thinking Karapoti might be good. AFAIK you can ride dirt bikes there. I just need to finish my towbar carrier monstrosity of heavy.
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off to the warehouse for gloves and pads?
I had already been to the warehouse(you can see it written on my hand) to buy a skateboard style helmet as I thought my mountainbike helmet didn't look right.
I think knee pads, gloves and longer sleeves at least.
I did about 22km on that ride and crashed just before the half way point. I intended to go all the way to Avalon.
I also bought a 750ml aluminium drink bottle from the warehouse for $5 as an additional fuel tank. I duct taped it to the front forks and took the tape with me so I could replace it. The lid is plastic and I don't think the seal likes petrol too much, but it wasn't leaking. Hopefully it's a standard thread and I can get a brass/steel blanking plug with the right thread and a proper o-ring.
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Spent some time picking all the little stones out of my skin. Then trying to find plasters big enough to stop me from making a mess on the furniture.
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I got a couple of tyres from Rex. They looked a bit too big in diameter....
It was a real bastard to loosen the bead to get the old tyre off the split rims. It took me over an hour to get the old one off and put the new one on. Once the new tyre is on you can see that it's the right size.
It stops a lot better now.
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Used Racechrono on my phone and went for a 17km ride after steak.
I can just get to 50kph on the seal I think it's running out of revs. Just over 40 on gravel.
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170kw.
I am running rose joints with parallel arms and a panhard rod. I did it because I had problems with axle tramp and wheel alignment with the factory arms/bushes.
I also tried poly bushes at both ends(I thought the rose joints were shagged, but it was diff noise), then it was pointed out that they were so stiff, the diff could only go up and down but not twist, so I went back to rose joints.
I like the direct feel.
No problems with mounts cracking.
Noisy as in a stripped car though. I get a lot of noise transmission from the LSD. But racecar, so who cares.
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I got some slicks from Rex, and normal ones from the US. Never ran the slicks on the bike, just the chilly bin. US was pretty cheap in the end. Also got new wheels, sprockets and brake as the original plastic wheels were terrible and broke. Got some aluminium ones and were the bees knees
The tyres from 'Murica are cheap. But I only need the tyres, so the $60 freight kills it. I'll try Rex on my lunch break tomorrow.
Corrosion.... can I still use this block?
in Tech Talk
Posted
The liner comment confused me for a bit. It doesn't have a liner, it's a CA18 block. The "pitting" around the "liner" is old gasket residue. I probably could have done a better job of cleaning it up before taking the photo. As far as I can tell, there is no pitting apart from how the hole is bigger.
I was planning on getting the deck resurfaced.