Adoom

Any suggestions on getting my new engine to start easier? I got home with enough light for a test run, but ran out of sunlight trying to start it.

Ignition is on.

Fuel is on. Big end of triangle.

Choke is closed. Small end of triangle.

A little bit of throttle. Manual says 1/3rd.

My arm feels like it's going to fall off from pulling on the starter cord.

It caught a few times and died after a few seconds. If I tried to reduce the choke. I thought I had it. It was idling with the choke on/closed. I rode it across the road and it died. I couldn't get it to start again and it was almost dark.

I've also tried half choke, no choke, more throttle, no throttle and all combinations of those.

My old tecumseh is much easier to start(once I cleaned up the points).

If I get it started again I'll leave it idling on the choke till it's 'warm', maybe it just needs running in or something. It will fall over when running if I don't hold it...

MSPAINT!!!!!!!!

I also need to move my fuel tank over as the filler is under the frame rail. 

I have a yellow titan brand motor and the tank does not move across as easily as some of the other china copies so i am still battling to fill it....

How does it mount? Mine has two long studs off the tank that bolt to two cast lugs that are part of the engine.. And another bolt on the back that goes into a captive nut on the tank.

I used a bit of allot flat bar and bolted it to the two mounting lugs then drilled new mounting holes further towards the clutch side. The holes are slotted and open towards the front, or I could not get the tank studs in. I used some nuts and washers as spacers on the studs. I ignored the bolt at the back.

I'll take a photo at home tonight.

I made it to Supercheap 2 minutes before closing and got some fuel hose.

I had to take the tank off to get the hose on. Initially it was too long and I realised the hose was touching the flywheel :/

So I shortened it.

Then tried for AGES yanking on the starter cord and it caught a few times and tried to run away from me. I eventually got it running. But it's dark and raining. So I did a little skid in the garage. 

I moved the tank over yesterday. Initially I went into the garage to return my garage chair that the gf borrowed then forgot outside. One hour later....

Everything is mounted but the fuel pipe needs to be ~40mm longer. I need to get at least 200mm of 4mm id fuel hose. Then I can go injure myself!!!!

I need to further modify the chain guard, the hole I made for the crank bolt is not big enough for the washer as well.

Made my tensioner.

I haven't tested it with the engine running yet. Still need to sort the mounts to move the tank over so I can open the filler cap.

Sorted the throttle cable. Realised I had a fitting I could use from the original brakes to hold the cable outer.

Still needs a better return spring.

I had some time in the freezing garage and did some work on the throttle cable linkage for the new motor.

Lighting is bad, so two photos...

The return spring is too weak/loose so I'll need to fit another one in there somewhere.

I have a clutch here for a 3/4" shaft if needed... Doubt I'll use it again...

All good for clutch already.

Mounted the engine today. Had to slot the holes about 15mm. The flywheel cover seems to be a bit more bulky than the Tecumseh, I didn't measure it though.

Ordered the chain tensioning roller wheel thing linked earlier.

I accidentally/on purpose bought a 6.5HP engine off the tard.

It basically fits...

I had to drill a hole in the clutch cover for the clutch mounting bolt to stick through.

I need to slot the mounting holes to move the engine forward a bit because the valve cover hits the mud guard. The guard is too close to the tire to move. So I'll also need a new/longer chain.

I need to make some mounting dealie bits to attach the throttle cable. It has the holes for them...

I need to move the tank a bit to the left, or I cannot open the fuel cap. The mounts are part of the tank, so I think I will make an adapter thingy.

I think that was it...

Mine are not so fancypants as others.

My stop turning you bastard flywheel flywheel turning stopper. One clutch bolt goes in the hole and it rests against one of the locating pins. To remove/tighten flywheel bolts.

My exhaust gasket bolt hole bigger maker destruction stopper.

The exhaust studs on my old engine pulled out and were replaced with much larger ones but the studs did not fit through the holes in the gasket anymore. I use this to sandwich the gasket so I can use a drill to make the holes bigger and not mangle it.

My valve stem seal holder on to..er. The cut off bolt in the other end is just to keep it aligned. I use a large spanner against the through bolt as a lever and rubber hammer handle as a pivot.

Just use a sash clamp to pull the motor forward on the slots and do up the bolts. Then you won't need a tensioner

Unfortunately the center bore for the rear sprocket is off by a tiny bit, maybe only 1mm, so the chain goes tight...loose...tight...loose...

A sprung tensioner would be ideal.

Pulley Tensioner Green Chain Roller ID 10mm For Chinese 50cc-160cc Pit Dirt Bike CRF KLX SDG Go Kart Motorcycle

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Pulley-Tensioner-Green-Chain-Roller-ID-10mm-For-Chinese-50cc-160cc-Pit-Dirt-Bike-CRF-KLX/2051947086.html

Might take a bit of thinking to fit it in. Unless I get a new/longer chain.

I went to see my brother and his two boys. They just built this. Safe as

And then catastrophe!!!!

The trailer flipped upside down when I went over a bump(well, a shitload of bumps).

I'm just gonna glue it and make a metal reinforcing frame thing so it will survive next time. 

Finally had some time to make my trailer and towbar.

Ran out of time for testing. Just went around the lawn. Seems to work.

Dunno how long those wheels will last. 

Probably the only thing TS is good for these days?

Yep. I hardly ever look at it anymore, when I do, there are SFA new posts. Where did everyone go?

Fuck yes.

I always tell the younger guys here that you'll never be upset you took too many pics (of a component before pulling to bits)

I have lots of photos, I forgot I took them. I came across it while looking at my Toyspeed project thread.

SOLVED!

I found this photo I took. Look at that filth!

But #3 has a "P" on it. The other set of caps has a "K". So my guess was wrong.

I think the diff(T-Series) I had shortened 25mm each side was from a corona. The problem with the original axles was that the diameter decreased just after the spline, so if you shortened it and cut more spline further down the shaft, part of the spline "teeth" will not be the full height.

Is that the problem you have?

I managed to find some axles from a different toyota at Pick a Part, that were a few mm larger diameter overall but same bearings, same number of splines and even 10-15mm shorter than my original ones. They machined that old spline diameter down and cut the new spline. 

I can't remember what I got the axles from though, it was 10 years ago. It was a Toyota something Wagon....

According to this:

http://www.toycrazy.net/tech/diffcompare.html

It might have been an E-Series axle. The GX61 wagon looks right.

Phil probably measured it with cheeseburgers. You think this guy has internal mics sitting around? I would say if he did he wouldn't have asked us the question. its going into the machine shop anyway so get it measured, this doesn't seem very hard to me Tom? other option is to buy some gear to measure it properly. By the sounds he is sending it to grotty's so its going to steer him in the right direction.

I don't have any micrometers(or cheeseburgers/bananas/cellphones), it would be nice, but the amount of times I'd use them doesn't really justify buying any. I assume cheap ones are not worth buying.

The most precision measuring tool I have is vernier calipers.

I am taking it to the guys at Custom Works eventually, when I have some money.

But because I have no money yet, I did try installing both #5 caps and they seem to be exactly the same. I cannot see or feel any misalignment where the cap meet the block on either of them, so their machining seems to be pretty consistent.

yes, I meant 8 port.

Absolutely no hurry at all.

 

What car is your engine going into?

If you have a motor that has suffered water damage, then I thought perhaps you might have an "odd" piston that was reusable.

My avatar is a clue

I've had a CA18ET in my starlet since.....2005? 173rwkw. It had a terminal failure last time I went to manfield. Either the head gasket went or the ethanol injection failed, but I ended up with two melted plugs and a whole lot of coolant in two cylinders and some scored bores/pistons, that was the point at which I stopped taking the engine apart and just shoved it under the bench.

The early CA18DET was bought before this as an eventual upgrade. But I was convinced not to use it and to try find a late model CA18DET without the weird inlet manifold.

So now I have this later model CA18DET that I am in the process of rebuilding, as limited funds allow. I've done the head. But all the parts needed for the block add up to quite a lot.

The four port motors only have the injector feeding the "allways open" port. The head of the other valve gets really caked up with shite.

I have a four port head squirreled away for my supercharged CA18 build.

If you had a spare det piston in good order, id be interested if you wanted to part with it.

 

great info thread btw.

I think you meant "the 8 port motors with four always open ports...". And yes, those usually closed ports were clogged to buggery with oily crud on the early motor.

I have THREE sets of det pistons. But I need to decide which set I will be using before I can give any away. Are you in a hurry?

Get that shit skimmed, and do skids all day long.

That's what I needed to hear.