Adoom

I'm sure your tie down to key via spanner idea worked great but what I would do it connect a wire to the starter solenoid and touch the other end to battery positive to crank to engine.

The Link has an input from the ignition "start" position that needs to be live before it will do its thing, like make the sparkle plugs sparkle. Your idea would probably work on something with carbs.

IT LIVES!!!!

So I got it to start and sorted the timing. I used an SR20 base maps, link forums suggested that.

Trying to get all the air out of the cooling system. No oil or water leaks so far.

It runs rough as. Like it's running on 3. I'll pull the plugs and see what they are like.

IC pipe is still not done, I need to modify the bit of pipe that has the BOV, IAC take-off and IAT sensor so it will fit.

My turbo oil line still needs shortening, it's 4 or 5 times too long.

Messing around with the plumbing/hoses. I have a shitload of hose clips and about 8 90deg elbows to get some hoses to where they need to go. :/

Got my intercooler back from being modified.

Picking up a timing light tonight to have a go setting the base timing/calibrating the triggers. Not sure how I can crank the engine and look at the front pulley timing marks at the same time.... might have to get the gf to assist.

I went to Howat Engineering because it's only a 3 minute drive from work. Dropped it off Monday lunch, asked for it by the weekend, got a call this morning that it was done. I also got them to roll a bead on the ends of two bits of alloy pipe.

The work looks good.

I made the assumption that they would have eftpos. I was wrong. But Brian just said to pay online.

$57.50

Would trade again. 

I cant, but try Graham (runs his own shop in behind the Yamaha motorbike dealer) on Goodshed road, did a nice job on some of my stuff and at a fair rate. he is there some Saturday mornings as well

Cheers. I'll swing by there on the way home if I can get away from work early.

I would pay you, I'm not asking for it to be free.

Is there anyone available in the next week or so to do some tig welding? Welding new end pipes on my intercooler...

I've done most of the prep, maybe still need to do a bit more cleaning or something.

I'm in Upper Hutt, I would bring it to you.

I bought a cheap windows tablet to run pclink on so i can have custom gauges that are in my face.

And so i can do logging.

I need to make a sturdy but easily removable mount. with velcro straps or something.

Coooooool.

How big is it? Can you show us a floor plan?

Is it a kit of some kind, or have you done all the design/plans yourself?

If you plumb it back into pre-throttle body somewhere, when it makes boost the pressure on both side is balanced so no leak.

Depends on the ISCV unit I guess but not plumbing back to pipe and you'll have air blowing back out through it.

Ah, I see the boost leaks out. spose I need that long ugly pipe.

Itll leak plumb it in before throttle plate also if you have afm it will not meter that air at idle so itll be all out of wak

I should have mentioned that the engine has a link ecu and is using a MAP, not an AFM. So if it leaks, it should make no difference if it leaks through its own filter or via the main intake pipe, right?

FYI: Idle Speed Control/Idle Air Control...

On my CA18DET I need some crazy snake hose to plump the IAC valve to the intake pipe. Can I just stick a little filter directly onto the valve and not have to have the long hose? I can't think why it would not work. It's not like it needs boost pressure... it only opens when the engine is idling.

I had to remove the fuel tank to replace a fuel hose that had gone hard.

The tank still had about 30L of BP98 from 2 years ago so it fairly heavy.

I ended up pouring it out the filler pipe into a 20L drum for the mower... then that was full, I filled my 5L bottle a few times and transferred it to the corolla. It will be fine.

I also took the opportunity to remove the battery tray, fuel pump and surge tank so I could clean it up and paint it. It was a horrible mess from my old battery that seemed to spew a bit of acid and ate the paint.

I also made the access hole for the hoses about twice the size it was before, should be able to change stuff without removing the tank now. The paint is not quite dry yet, so I have not put the rubber bead around the edge of the hole.

I've ordered some 2" alloy pipe to replace the IC inlet/outlet. They are currently 1 7/8" or something. I've been meaning to do that for ages, and the hose should clamp down much better once that's done.

I don't want to be Captain Pessimism, but don't underestimate how much all the little bits and pieces will add up to.

Things like silicone joiners, fasteners, belts, hoses, clutch, etc...

Can lend you a usb p touch printer if you want? industry recognized for electrical stuff they never fade. Depends where you are of course.

Thanks, I'm far away from you. But the jaycar ones I got seem to be suitable.

I got the Jaycar ones. Will see how they work. $4.50 for 20 is cheap enough for a trial.

Ned did his recently, I have linked the post below:

//oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/36476-neds-7k-drop-hatch-starlet/page-2#entry1623013

What he used.

http://www.labelcity.com/DYMO-RHINO-4200-LABEL-PRINTER-1801611.html

 

It does look really nice, but I would need to remove the pins from the connectors to get the sleeve on. And some of the pins are sufficiently stubborn that I would rather not.

These could do the job. http://www.jaycar.co.nz/Wire%2C-Cable-%26-Accessories/Cable-Accessories/Cable-Glands%2C-Grommets-%26-Ties/100mm-Label-Cable-Ties-Pk-20/p/HP1244

I'll have to go look, it's not obvious if you write directly on them or if you stick a label to it.

Does anyone have an inexpensive but durable solution for labeling the connectors/wires on my engine loom?

It would have to be something that does not require the connector to be removed to get the label on. I've tried removing the pins from my connectors(to fit the loom through a grommet) and it took me about 2 hours to do only half of them, some of the pins were very stubborn and I gave up and just split the grommet.

Trying to work out if I have the CAS plug wired correctly. I'm fairly sure I have the power and ground right. And 75% sure I've got Trig 1 and 2 the right way around. It seems to work occasionally, like sometimes it displays the revs momentarily in the Link software, but most times it does not. I'm just turning the engine over on the starter.

Could it be from voltage drop? It's dropping down to 9 volts when it's cranking. It's the same 360 degree Nissan Opto type as the old engine.

Maybe I'll take it off and turn it with the drill, so there is no voltage drop from the starter.

Also found that the fuel hose for the overflow from the surge tank to fuel tank has gone hard. It can't be much more than 3 years old :/ I blame supercheap efi hose Which was actually quite expensive.

Of course it's the most awkward one to remove, all the other hoses have to be removed so the fuel tank can come out.

More recently. I had to pull the gearbox out because the plate thingy that goes behind the flywheel didn't have holes in the right places for the L-brackets that brace between the block and the lower bellhousing.

So convenient that I got a power file for xmas to make some notches in the edge of the plate.

I've also just put the radiator and intercooler back in....

The radiator top hose needs to make some bends like a snake practicing yoga... I might have to make it out of metal I think.

I also had to cut some of the electric fan shroud off so it clears the front pulley. 3mm is heaps!

Build Thread: //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/51322-adooms-1982-kp60-starvia/

*rebuilds engine* over REALLY long time. Thanks CAM.

Making new engine mounts. Old ones were a bit not right.

Then on the first or 2nd run at Manfield. BHG

Bores were fucked

#1 and #3 spark plugs had melted electrodes.

So I did this

It's the 4 port head

It needed a rebuild though