Jump to content

Adoom

Members
  • Posts

    2164
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by Adoom

  1. 1 hour ago, vivaspeed said:

    I can't believe this thread is still going after 6 pages.

    The correct answer to the original question is 'No'.

    It's 70s, British, and Leyland.  That's a trio of trouble...

    I'm pretty sure the answer has devolved into 'Yes'. It can't be much worse than the two mini's I owned, they were 70's, 80's British and Leyland. You forgot Lucas, Prince of Darkness. 

    Oh yeh, I intend to run stock for a while. I won't dive into a conversion right away.

    • Like 1
  2. 2 hours ago, Snoozin said:

    If you're going to put yourself through pain, heartache and bankruptcy at least do it with a decent engine. I'm sure that was an entirely cost effective exercise and provided a sky high dollar per hp ratio.

    The plan is to put myself through pain, heartache and backruptcy installing a 'modern' engine for better fuel economy to save a couple of bucks. And like, reliability and a side effect of much more power for the same engine capacity. Plus, a 1UZFE/RB25/1JZ/something engine in the 2500 would be COOL. I don't know about the euro options, don't they have crazy high prices for general maintenance parts? 

    • Like 1
  3. Pics?

    From your description, it sounds like the problem is with the 'new' gearbox.

    Can you shine a light and look down between the seal and output shaft? Or poke a pokey thing down there to feel for an obstruction?

     

  4. 25 minutes ago, Muncie said:

    Tdo0fzgh.jpg 

    Hq sump and pick up and you can go full retard above is me demonstrating the need for the different sump. RV8 in a triumph are rubbish a 2 litre with a warm cam perform way better with less power been there done that.

     

    More bigger pics please.

    I don't think I want a RV8, not much power out of the box, and so so old.

    I want something relatively modern with EFI in the hope it will be more economical than the Triumph engine while also making quite a bit more power.

    I've been browsing the Tard for possible options and OFMG the RWD manual turbo flat peak tax is so high!!! I was hoping I might find something 120kw+(unmodified) with a manual gearbox for under $2k. Am I dreaming?

    I think I want to get a car first, and run around in it as is while keeping an eye out for a suitable engine/gearbox.

  5. 7 minutes ago, Muncie said:

    Have ideal turbo to bolt onto a Triumph in the roof of my garage if you want ? Rb20 25 26 and 30 have all been done in a triumph in nz. Ls1 into triumph bolt in kit is a thing now why not do that.

    Do you have any details on the RB conversions? Or the LS1 kit. Everything I find is for Stag/spitfire/TR6/GT6, I don't find anything for the 2000/2500.

     

  6. 51 minutes ago, HighLUX said:

    Pretty sure Richy has put a ruler to a JZ and Trump engine bay, shoehorning requires firewall mods.

    Find manual 3.8 VN commy and bang that running gear in for the best of no worlds.

    Then mod rear subframe to fit R200 skyline diff so you can mang and mooooo up a storm

    Dang. I really don't want to fuck around hacking up the firewall.

    33 minutes ago, ThePog said:

    The advice I would give is to make sure the rear halfshafts have cv's or can be converted to cv's. The factory uj/spline setup binds up under load and make for interesting cornering.

    Or put a subframe from something else better in there.

    I was thinking of putting a complete/modified subframe out of something better into it as part of engine/brake upgrade.

    37 minutes ago, Firetruck said:

    A decent V6 could be a great option, YoEddy / Alex has a 2.5 Mazda 6 in his Viva and that hauls along nicely. Slap a bit of boost on there for merry fun times.
    Or a VQ35 if you wanna open a big can of worms. Toyota also has a few but I actually know stuff all about Yota V6s. However a Turbo Beams 3S could do ya good.

    Really though, all you need is a Holden 3.8M8.

    But slapping boost on requires aftermarket ECU's and tuning. Too much extra $$$$.

  7. It's pretty slow at work this week. And I'm bored because my new house and garage isn't started yet. And my toys are in storage. 

    I've been thinking that I might want/need a Triumph 2000/2500 with the aim to fit a modern....maybe turbo... 6cyl in it, WITHOUT making it another racecar, so I can daily it.

    Do you think I will be able to fit a 1jzgte, or just a 1jzge without major surgery to the firewall?

    Is this a stupid idea? I'm not going to have a garage until the end of Feb/early March.

    I'd much prefer something that does not need body work or paint. Ideally it would not need much to make it drivable.

    I can't seem to find much on modifying these... do I do the google wrong????

     

     

     

     

  8. So I was on the way home and saw a van at the lights several cars in front.... But it was a truck... van.

    It was like someone took a little box truck and photoshopped the back of a van onto it.

    It had typical big truck type front wheels and duallies on the back.

     

    What was it?

     

  9. Supercheap had a sale on Saturday, so I got 5L of Penrite 85W140 LSD oil.

    I drained out the old stuff. Filled it up with penrite. Then ran it in 5th while on axle stands. Then drained that oil out. It was all foamy, like mixed with water. Then filled it again, ran it in 5th, drained it. It not as foamy. Then filled it again and decided that was enough.

    While running it on the axle stands I could see that the gearbox output shaft seal was leaking and spraying the underside of the car with oil. Yay. Burnt gear oil smells great.

    So I'll need a new seal. I'm sure I've done this before.... I hope its not a problem with a bearing or something that's causing the seal to fail prematurely.

  10. Blasted the hell out of the little filter in the tank with carb cleaner and the compressor. It didn't look dirty. I also stripped the fuel tap and cleaned that too. It didn't look dirty.

    But it goes good now!

    Then I made my "performance" exhaust, out of a chair. I made the curve by making a lot of cuts almost all the way through.

    It's slightly larger diameter than the original.

    IMAG5141.jpg

    IMAG5142.jpg

     

    But fuck me, it's pretty loud! 

  11. I don't think it's kinked, as I said, it has run well before, with the tank in the current location.

    I'll have a go blowing up the fuel hose with the compressor..... I'm sure it won't end badly. Hopefully that's it.

     

    I replaced the plug with an NGK not long after I got it.

    Never touched the coil or flywheel, no reason to think it might be out of spec.

     

    I have the china spec flywheel of random lottery explosions..... can't I just make a scatter shield with some 6mm steel strap for like free? A $100 flywheel is a bit of money, I know, I know, how much are my legs worth to me if/when it explodes.

     

    If I ever upgrade the standard valve springs, I think I will have to also get one of those alloy flywheels.

  12. carb drain plug should have maybe 30ml of fuel in it? but with the fuel tap open, it should empty the tank...

    Sounds like maybe you need to drill out that jet a bit and get some more fuel up in there to get her to run right...?

    I meant with the fuel tap open and the drain plug out, how much should it flow? It will drain the tank, but it could take some time. I was thinking that some gauze/strainer in the tank might be blocked or something..... Should it piss out? Or just kinda dribble?

     

    It used to run alright when I first put it in, but after a while it started to run like it does now. Can't be the jet being too small...

  13. Okay, so I had a fiddle with it today. It's not running right.

    I increased the idle, as per UTERUS. Now it will start and run with the choke on, no touching the throttle.

    But, even when warm, if I turn the choke off, it will die. There is a sweet spot at about 2/3rd choke on where it runs best..... least worst.

    If I lift the wheel off the ground and rev it, it gets to a point then seems to be.... misfiring.. not having power... revs unstable.... like it's running out of fuel. (it's not valve bounce). It was doing this BEFORE I removed the governor. Same deal when I tried to go for a ride up the road.

    I've tried winding the idle mixture screw right out which did help with starting it.

    I removed the jet and emulsion tube and they were clean, but I sprayed them with some carb cleaner anyway.

    I took the plug out, it was quite black with carbon, I gave it a clean with the wire brush.

    I made sure it has new fuel in it and drained what was in the carb and fuel lines.

    Still not right.

     

    How much fuel should come out when I remove the carb drain plug? Just a dribble?

     

    What could the problem be?

×
×
  • Create New...