Adoom

2 hours ago, sheepers said:

no, it was 4.1 a per stock GTR but i changed it to 3.6.

How do you find that ratio for revs in 5th at 100kph?

I plan on putting a 1UZ and W57 into my Triumph 2500. <-- I have all these bits already. With my 195/60/14" tires I worked out I'd need something like 3.3 to 3.5:1 to have 2600-2750rpm at 100kph.

I'm exploring options for the rear end because the existing semi trailing arm setup is said to be craptastic.  To put an S13(same as R32, I think) rear end in I'd have to narrow it about the same as you have.

I'll drop the existing rear suspension some time and offer up an S13 subframe I have access to, to see if it's remotely feasible. I suspect the front upper arm mounts will require far too much hacking of the floor.

What ratio is the diff, I couldn't find it? Is it the standard ratio for an R32 GTR R200 LSD?

12 hours ago, evil_si said:

i have various diagrams, 

have a 1990 ls400 diagram, which the AFM pin 3 goes to 8/22, pin 1 18/22, pin 2 16/22, pin 4 11/22

flick me an email maxfab@xtra.co.nz

I think the 93 diagram i have is turning out right. So far I have traced the AFM and Igniter wires and they all go where the diagram says, right colours too.

Upon further investigation, this 93 diagram might be correct. Need to trace some more wires to confirm.

5 hours ago, downtrail said:

Pull the lid off the ecu. A lot of Toyota Ecu's have printed on the pcb what each pin is assigned to. 

Aaaaand that would be a negative on that one. Possibly because there are 100 pins and even the codes wouldn't fit and still make sense. On the plus side, it's looks good inside, no dodgy capacitors.

Removing one of the ecu brackets revealed a date stamp. 20th Aug 93. Might help with finding the right diagram.

7 minutes ago, igor said:

Can't find it now.

Found it. Not much detail on how he fit it... "Here is the engine on the floor". "Look, now it's in the car".

Just now, downtrail said:

Pull the lid off the ecu. A lot of Toyota Ecu's have printed on the pcb what each pin is assigned to. 

Fuck, I hope so. I'll look tonight.

I'm trying to find a wiring diagram that matches my ECU/Loom.

I've got Nigel Wade's instructions and downloaded all the diagrams he had links to(I even found the ones where the links were broken).

I've looked at all the diagrams I could find on Lextreme and trawling google image search.  I've found some that kind of match(Lextreme 93 LS400, right colours), but looking closer, don't really(most pins wrong).

I notice a lot of the diagrams I have found say Canda and USA. Maybe I need to find a JDM diagram.

It's a 1UZ-FE from a 1994 LS400. Without VVTi. With TRC. The ECU number is 89661-50170. The plugs are 34, 22, 16 and 28 pin. (Which I think is called T8-a)

So far I've tried tracing the MAF wires on my loom. Most diagrams I found, nearly all of the MAF pins go to the 22 pin plug.

But on my loom(using the multimeter),

MAF pin 3 goes to pin 8 of 22 (Other diagrams have pin 2 go to pin 8 of 22, and pin 3 go to pin 18 of 22)

MAF pin 5 or 1 goes to pin 16 of 16

MAF pin 1 or 5 goes to pin 32 of 34

Does anyone have something that matches these pins?

4 hours ago, Snoozin said:

Also the IRS is not good it's flappy chicken wing semi trailing arm insta-toe camber gang garbage. But it's sweet for fitting wide wheels. Doing away with the shitty rear hub arangement would be dreamy to boot. But fitting another subframe is gonna be a massive dick of a job. Time is free I guess.

I have an acceptable center console you can have. It isn't cracked near the choke but does have a mangled hole for oem demister switch and the holed for the gear boot clips have done their usual shit themselves thing.

Look forward to seeing a UZ in the hole. It's my ideal swap too.

I have a good center console on the way, thanks anyway.

31 minutes ago, Threeonthetree said:

Have you done any final drive calculations with wheel/tyre size and your ideal engine rpm at particular speeds?
Because your range of suitable ratios is quite broad due to the difficulty of finding a suitable diff which offers a low 3 ratio.
You might find that around 3.5 is actually suitable.

Or you could find any other IRS diff head and axles (BMW, Holden, Toyota etc) that is relatively easy to obtain and look at fitting it, if it comes in the ratio you desire.
I wouldn't bother fitting another IRS rear subframe or rear end into your car because the one you have will be more than adequate for a 1UZ.

Just done some quick spreadsheeting. Ideal ratio are between 3.3 and 3.5. This gives me 100kph at 2600 - 2750rpm in 5th. Internet seems to think the 1UZ likes this rev range at 100kph.

39 minutes ago, Muncie said:

Lexus v8 is a bitch to fit in one of these i sunk one into my mk1 back in  2003 custom sump headers everything is tight and in the way. Ls1 with a camaro sump would be way easier Commodore headers would fit with a few pipes tickled. 

Do you have any photos? I feel some dejavu... I might have asked in a previous thread.

Which sump did you use? My engine is a front sump, but I managed to source a Soarer 'rear' sump out of 'Murica. Initial measurements make it too close to be sure(current engine is in the way of measuring). So it will either just fit behind the cross member, or the crossmember/sump pan might require some modifications.

41 minutes ago, Threeonthetree said:

The IRS in these is actually pretty good. And good idea with the 1UZ, that would be a great combination.
The rear ends are already alloy trailing arm and quite well designed but the diff is the weak link when upgrading the power output of the engine or replacing it with something better (and more powerful). The diffs also use universal joints to transmit the power to the axles, CV joints are much better in every way.

A sensible upgrade would be to fit a Nissan R180 or R200 longnose diff into it. It has been done many times before, especially here and in Australia.
I doubt you'll get a ratio as tall as you want in one of these (but Nissan/Datsun foamers will know more about them than I do) but a Nissan diff head and axles will give you strength, CV joints and less weight. Plus there are many LSD options that can be fitted to them and a broken diff for mocking up purposes can be had for pretty much nothing.

Yeh, I've heard the Nissan diff is a common upgrade. But I don't know if I will find a suitable ratio without having to find some rare as obscure model.

So, putting a 1 UZ and a W57 in this....eventually.

I'm not sure what I want to do with the rear end.

I've got to upgrade the diff, cause it will break from all the torques. 

Without breaking out spreadsheets, I think the ratio needs to be around 3.0 to 3.5 to avoid too high revs at cruising speed.

I could just replace the diff with something bigger and keep the existing suspension. But the rear suspension is supposed to be quite shit.

I have the whole IRS from the LS400, but it's crazy heavy and 200mm too wide. I don't think I could make it fit easily. I could just use the diff from it, but it seems huge and heavy. The brakes are also giant and I'd need 16" wheels.

The IRS from a commodore looks like it could be made to fit with less effort than the LS400 and they have the right ratios available....

If I am going to fit the rear IRS suspension from something else, I would prefer to modify the subframe to fit the car, rather than modify the car to fit the subframe.

Comments....?

12 minutes ago, ~Slideways~ said:

 

 

Fuck! my eyes!! That's RED!

33 minutes ago, kicker said:

Cool. Yeah, thought about gutting it, probably would if I was doing it myself but just gonna get a shop to do it.

Are cats still worth a bit at the metal recyclers because of the platinum in them....?

2 hours ago, PHLEX said:

 

From here my plan is to get the driveshaft extended by 20-30mm and balanced and that should solve my problems once and for all.

 

I had Howatt Engineering in Wingate, shorten and balance my propshaft, by 20mm last week. I just rocked up on my lunch break "hey, can you shorten this?", it was ready two days later.

He also checks for play in the universal joints, in my case, they were still okay.

Was $203

Washer jet wasn't working. How did it get a wof...?

There was power at the motor without pressing the button on the stalk to make it go. Took the button apart and a plastic pin that holds a brass cone in place was missing causing it to be always on. Dang!

But then I found it under the carpet!!! Button works as it is supposed to now.

I took the motor apart and it was well burnt out from being on for ages. I'll find a suitable replacement at pickapart

Did I just pass a bunch of you guys in carterton?

I found an old icecream wrapper in one of the backseat ash trays. I think it's 80s or 90s.

I ripped and hacked the foam rubber mat off the firewall because I knew there was run under there.

It all looks fairly simple to repair with the engine out(and the mat/stuff under the dash). Anyone got a good firewall they can cut out and send me to make patches with?

So I found this bag in one of the rear guards behind some trim...

It's like wool, or batts or something. It's about 40cm long...

Um, wtf? Some kind of anti vibration?

And the glass and chrome parts from the interior boot light.

And the brake pressure differential switch, the terminal has snapped off mine.

I replaced the broken speed cable with one I bought from witors.

I replaced the wiper blades and cleaned the inside and outside of the windscreen.

I made a shopping list of parts I need or want:

Steering wheel

Number plate lights for bootlid

Set of front window winders

One of the screws that holds the wooden dash panel.

Sun visors

A center console that is not cracked.

Seatbelt hook from B-pillar

The vinyl part of the dash with no/less cracks, if such a thing exists.

I bought an oil seal the "same" size and got Brian at howatt to shorten my propshaft. I went to go install them this morning and the seal is not a friction fit, it goes in easily and can move around. Damn. It must be only 0.1mm smaller than the original. So, do I just silicon it in, or do I go to Nissan to get the oem seal and hope it's a tighter fit?

So I FINALLY got around to removing the badly leaking gearbox tailshaft oil seal.

It was a bit of a bitch to lever out with the flat head screw driver.

It turns out the propshaft is too long, so at some points in the suspension travel, the shaft of the yoke is thrust, right to its base where it is has more girth, and this has reamed out the seal in the gearboxes tail end. The weld at the base of the yoke shaft has also 'machined' a bit of a step where the seal goes in.

The alloy casting will need to be cleaned up a bit and a new seal should go in fine.

I'll get the propshaft shortened. It was probably borderline too long since I had it made and since then it's been reshelled, had a new gearbox mount and adjustable trailing arms installed. 

I could probably get myself a bit more clearance using the adjustable arms, but I'd rather shorten it to be safe.

A well reamed seal.

Second night of literally living in my shed. Last night was quite warm. But it's been raining since this afternoon with a southerly, so 14 degrees. Upside is my cars and tools are in my bedroom I fixed the horn, it worked when I picked it up but then never again. Someone had spliced in their own separate wire and online fuse from the horn relay to the horn and unplugged the original wires... their splicing/ soldering was so shit. I ripped all the extra crap out and proceeded to trace the wires back to find why the original wiring wasn't working. Pretty sure it was just a spade connector that needed cleaning up. Horn works now, "parp parp".

I tried to remove my center console to glue up the cracks, but couldn't work out how to remove the choke, fan, cig knobs. I can unscrew the... bezel nuts? but the knob is too big for the hole and I don't think lube will help in this case.