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Adoom
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Posts posted by Adoom
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I needed to make the strut towers taller so they would work with the coilovers.
Not shown in the photos is how I partially fabricated the new top and held it in place with wooden spacers and tek screws. Once I had it tacked together I could cut the old top off and use the teck screws for alignment.
I welded the joins inside and out with it removed to make it easier on myself.
I left one side off so I could see to do the indie welds joining it to the tower.
Do the inside welds.
Close the hole.
The access to see wtf I was doing was real bad, but I also welded the back of the closing plate.
No pics, but the coilover fits now and I can adjust it so it's at ride height when the spring is compressed. There's plenty more adjustment left to fine tune.
Got to do the other side now.
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2 hours ago, cubastreet said:
Try your weedeater battery. Even though they say 56V they're 14S/52V.
I could give it a go. Won't last long, it's only 2.5Ah I think.
I might just have accidentally on purpose ordered a 52 volt 19 Ah battery on Ali. From a seller recommended for having good quality stuff using legit branded cells.-
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Well damn. I finished charging each parallel set up to 4.2 volts. But they all had voltage drops ranging from 3.98 volts to 4.16 volts. The overall voltage is now 52.3, but it will probably balance out to 51.5 next time I put the pack on the charger.
When I initially tested the cells it was several weeks before I checked them for voltage drop and the ones I kept were all at least 4.16 volts.
So I guess I fucked up when spot welding, or soldering on the sense wires.
In other news, I found out you could bypass the current sensing resistor/shunt in the controller so it doesn't limit the amps.... It seems to be a fairly common thing to do and no one is saying it's just going to burn out right away. So lets see if it eventually lets the smoke out.
It does seem to accelerate faster.
I think I'll just buy a battery eventually, so I can get more range. A 52 volt one, so I get more speed and power and it will/should still work with my 48 volt controller... -
New charger arrived. And dang it, no change.
So now I'm using my iMax lipo battery charger with the crocodile clip connectors hooked onto the nickel strips to charge each 1S 4P separately to see if I can get them all up to 4.2 volts. If I can, maybe that will magically fix it?
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....that gearbox adapter plate. It looks very rectangular.
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Dad's is hub drive.
I'll bring it to Damo's tomorrow.-
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26 minutes ago, cubastreet said:
The cells will last longer if you only charge them to 4V so maybe not a bad thing. Do you know the settings of the bms? Maybe it's cutting off the charge.
The motor will take whatever the controller throws at it, 500W is the continuous rating.
Did you get any air on the Brooklyn rd BMX track?
Settings? It's a 13s 35Amps china one, but I got it on Trademe with 200% markup.
Dad's mtn ebike with 29" wheels gives you a bit of a kick in the pants when you take off. With the little BMX wheels I'd expect similar, but no. Won't do a burnout in the garage with no weight on the bike either...I'm sure I'm not getting the performance I should be.
The BMX track is on my list of places to go.
My test ride was out to Hururua Rd, It was the closest hill I could think of. But the battery indicator was already flashing at me just as I got to the bottom of the hill. -
It doesn't seem to be charging fully. It's 13S, so fully charged would be 54.6 volts.
The charger is 54.6 volts at 3 Amps. I've checked with the multimeter and it does output 54.6 volts.
But left for hours, the pack voltage doesn't get much over 52 volts. The light on the "charger" goes from red to green, which I assume means the pack is not drawing and current.
The average mAh of the cells is 2850, so the 4P pack should be 11.5 Ah
At 48 volts, the 500 watt motor should be drawing 10.4 Amps. So in theory, I should be able to ride flat out for at least an hour, just on the throttle, right?
But I got an underwhelming 17km at ~30kph, mostly flat terrain, on throttle only, before low voltage shut off. Had to pedal 7km home, wasn't terrible. It's low geared, so you are pedaling fast rather than hard.
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41 minutes ago, anglia4 said:
What configuration is your battery?
13S 4P. I've got the cells in one of those plastic grid things so it's a bit more bulky than gluing the cells directly to each other like the 36 volt battery was originally in this case.
I don't have any photos without the case, but the cells are in an 'L' shape. You can see the BMS on the top, there was no room for it inside the case.
I'm going to make the hat for the sunroof from 1mm steel and just silicon it on. If I ever need to open the battery, I can cut the silicon.-
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Progress so far.
I blew up one of those cheap battery spot welders. Apparently when it says "6-12 volts. Can be used with car battery", does not include fully charged 13.9 volt car batteries, because it blew up a mosfet and another component first use.
Then I found some that were 9-16 volts, and they had copper rod soldered to the board to increase the current carrying capacity. I got two, just in case. First one worked great.... but it got REAL hot during use and ended up blowing out one of the high power circuit traces and locking the mosfets closed circuit.
So I swapped to the spare and restricted myself to 8 welds before leaving it to cool for 10 minutes. That worked, but it took ages to finish the battery.
AS SOON as it was functional I had to test it! Unfortunately I must have pinched the inner tube trying to get the tire on the super narrow rim and it goes flat within a minute. But I did a quick zoom and got up to >30 kph easy as.
I've checked the config on the controller does not restrict the speed, and the wheel size is correct.
No issues with the battery getting in the way.
Looking forward to seeing what range I have with the 12Ah battery.
I still need to make a cover for the sunroof I cut in the battery case to fit all the cells in.And the PAS sensor I got was too small for the crank so I need a different one, but it works on the thumb throttle.
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4 minutes ago, kws said:
Give these guys a bell, https://www.mpautoparts.co.nz/
Plus one for these guys. Greg is a good guy and has made me a couple of clutches. I have one of their hybrid puk clutches in my Starlet behind the CA18DET, organic on one side and ceramic(?) on the other, so you get some clutch feel but it can take more power than a fully organic clutch.
It must have been at least 7 years ago though. Might have been around $600 back then. -
33 minutes ago, tortron said:
They are still made, gargoyle was a mobiloil brand name
The heavy oil is easy. I'll just use way oil, the stuff I have is super tacky.
But I've not been able to fin out what is the difference between 'grease BB'(apparently a bearing grease) and 'grease cn medium'.
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The knee is REAL heavy.
I wonder what the equivalent oils/greases for these are.
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I've got most of a full sheet of 0.8 cold rolled, but seems more like 0.7 to me. If that's a suitable thickness, let me know and I'll give you some.
Adam
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11 hours ago, BiTurbo228 said:
I'm guessing the strut tower has captive studs pointing down towards the wheel-well and is bolted on from underneath?
Rather than whittling up a new set, could you get a plate plasma cut? I've used sites like xometry before who do automated quoting for simple parts (which this would be). Not sure if they cater to the antipodes, but I'm sure there's local companies who can help out.
Nice work on the steering tie rods. I'm looking at a mill this weekend as I sense a similar thing in my future...
The whittling option was referring to making a steel version of the cast lower cup thing with integral side flanges. That would be a lot of work.
But the plate option welded directly to the coil over strut tube is what I will likely go for, if I get technical approval. I do know a guy who can plasma/flame/laser cut stuff, but it's only 12mm, so I'd likely just use my bandsaw.
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4 minutes ago, ajg193 said:
Link to ali listing?
The 4KW version of this listing https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002372694953.html?spm=a2g0o.order_detail.order_detail_item.2.3e74f19cj6D7dT
When I got the one for the lathe, it said to get one size bigger than the motor, I think because there's a big load on it when it starts.
I did the same for the mill, the motor on that is 1.8kw.
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I guess I'll run the single phase earth to the heatsink and the 3 phase cable earth wire from the heatsink to the mill body
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Jeez, this thing turned up in 11 days! I wasn't expecting it until the end of July.
But unlike the 7.5KW model I have, this 4KW one has no ground terminal. The manual doesn't show a ground connection in the circuit diagram for the smaller models.
Do I connect the heat sink to ground? Does it not need to be grounded?!?
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I've been taking it to bits to clean.
The overarm support is really bloody hard to move, I've been using the sledge with a block of wood, then once it was forward enough, there are some holes I can get the prybar in. The part of the gib strip I can see looks suspiciously like aluminium flatbar..... Hopefully it's not.
Just because they look like grease nipples on your mill or lathe, doesn't mean they are used for grease. OIL! OIL! OIL OIL OIL OIL !!!!!!!!!!
No wonder it took so much effort to turn the wheels.
I cleaned up the top surface and it's real dark, like black, but I can't feel obvious scoring, so I'm hoping it's okay.
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With the motor out, it was less hard to clean out the sump sludge.
I filled two icecream tubs with all the sludge I could reach. But I think there may be a cavity at the back I don't have enough elbows for, as well as the area in front of the column.
So glad it doesn't smell...
Since I can't reach all of it, I've emptied about 3 litres of undiluted ExOff degreaser into it and I'll leave it for a few days. It seems to break it up quite well scrubbing with a brush, the brush doesn't become instantly packed with grease(it's possibly more like oily mud?).
I'm thinking I can maybe suck it all up using some hose attached to a bucket and have the shop vac sucking the air out of the bucket. There is a drain plug on the side, but that's totally just going to make a big mess on the floor.
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Stuff going through Skylark always seems to go for lots, whenever I've followed any of their auctions.
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BEST!
GATEPOSTS!
EVER!
I'd love to make giant gateposts like that on my residential section.-
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I just picked this up last weekend from one photo on Trademe from a guy who took 9 days to respond to my emails.
It seems to be in okay condition. But there seems to be grease where I would expect oil, so the wheels are a work out to turn. And all the oiling nipples have been painted over. The inside is full of old oil and grease and dirt.
So I guess I'll pull it apart enough to clean the grease out.
First step. Get the motor out to find the info plate so I know what VFD to get.
The motor is mounted to a rocking mount.
That's bolted to this cover with a couple of threaded adjusters to adjust the tension on the drive chain. Yeh, CHAIN...
The chain going off to the left is for the axis power feed gearbox. The motor BARELY fits through that hole, and it has to be at the right angle too.
That big gear then goes into the column to some flat belt pulleys. I assume Everything has to come out of here to replace that flat belt.
NFI how this is supposed to come apart, the manual I have is for the MK2 and 3, which are quite a bit different to my MK1. They changed to V pulleys instead of chain, and a gearbox instead of those flat belts.
But I managed to get the motor out. It seems real big for 2.5HP. But it's short maybe?
And after cleaning the filth off the info plate. I'll need a 400V 3 Phase VFD, it can't be wired to use 230v 3 Phase.
Because the motor doesn't have separate terminals for the coils.
It does have these cool looking BEES bolts.
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Collected the milling machine today.
It's a MK1 UO (Universal, Size 0) Victoria Mill. I think it might be late 40's. There is a serial number, but I've not found any information about dates of manufacture.
The vertical spindle attachment is MT3, so I can use the tooling I already have for my RF30 clone.
It doesn't feel like there's much play so far. Unfortunately it looks like grease has been used instead of oil, so it's quite hard work turning the wheels. I'll have to pull it all apart and clean it.
Close up, the paint job is not so great, they've painted over most of the oiling nipples. So I probably need to replace all those too.
It's 3 phase. I think it's 2.5hp. I cannot see any motor id plate, so I don't know if it's star or delta at 415v and I don't know what VFD I'll need yet. I might have to remove the motor which looks like it will be fun... It's LARGE. The coolant pump is ALSO 3 phase, like 0.3 hp.
It was going great right up until dad drove the trailer out from under it and I realised one leg was starting to bend, which quickly broke the wheel, and it unloaded itself.
Only casualty was my blasting cabinet.... again. It's gonna need a bit more panel beating now as well as a new window from dropping a beam on it a week ago.
I guess I should have reinforced the legs after all.
With a pry bar and some 25mm round bar as rollers, I was easily pushed into it's new hole. I think I'll move it a bit further left, it's taking up more space than I imagined it would.
It will probably take me a while to 'commission' it.
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Adoom's 1972 Triumph 2000
in Projects and Build Ups
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And the other side is done.
I took it down off the axle stands to see how it looked. The subframe MIGHT, be 5-10mm closer to the left side..... or it's a 70's British car and it's not symmetrical. I have allowed for some misalignment by not welding the mounting studs in, they are just clamped by those two cap screws. So they can be moved around a bit when it's on a wheel alignment machine, then they can be welded solid.
The front is supported by the jack, no springs or coilovers up there yet.
The front arches are just SO ENORMOUS. I've measured the ground clearance of the front cross member and it's 180mm........ factory height.. .. But the sump is another 50mm lower. I'm not worried about the sump since it's it's in line with the wheels.
The gearbox cross member has 130mm clearance, I'm a little concerned that it might catch on those really tall speed bumps like they have in Upper Hutt. I could probably trim it down by 20mm, but the only way to make it any lower profile is replace it with a heavy bit of 10mm flar bar which just seems so crude.