Adoom

Sooo when I was chasing out all the threads I managed to put the wrong pitch M10 tap through one of the bellhousing mount holes.

So had to invest in some thread repair kits.

OUCH! My wallet.

I got an M6 at the same time because there are some stripped threads on the gearbox. ...the gear lever retention plate thing is held down by four M6 bolts and all the holes are stripped. 

28 minutes ago, oldrx7 said:

cheers all, welder is at the in-laws so that’s next weekends job now.

Who needs a welder?

Sorry, couldn't find it in English.

Weld a handle on it.

WTF is an axle cross supposed to be? Do they mean the trailing arms??? They are more of an "L".

How is it for rust...

Battery fallen through the battery box and dangling?

Rear subframe mounting points loose/broken?

Broken exhaust mounts? Probably this one I reckon.

Not much else under there that could make a knocking like that.

4 hours ago, yoeddynz said:

Cool saw. Would be so handy.  What's for me curious is how big is the top drum/wheel? From what I can tell it must have two wheels on top and the blade must be far more flexible then a normal wood bandsaw... 

 

 

You got it. The top wheels are a little smaller that you have drawn. The bottom wheel is about right.

I think the blade is 0.6mm

I gave the welder assembly a clean with compressed air. It had loads of metal 'dust' all over it. Which I assume was conductive! I should probably try make some kind of plastic dust cover for it.

I traced the wires... Round thing at the top is the grinder motor. 2,3,6 are joined together, which looks original.

As far as I can tell, the welder and annealer should have been working, it was only the grinder motor that was no longer connected.

AFAIK, if I add in the wires I've drawn in thin lines, the motor should work.

So next thing to do is pull out the multimeter and check the switches all work and there is continuity in the transformer coils.

So I bought a metal cutting vertical bandsaw. It's single phase.

I picked it up on the weekend. It belonged to a fabrication shop called Metalmorphic. They bought it new ~35 years ago(the plate on the motor says 1982) and stopped using it about 5 years ago because laser cutting exists.

All I've had time to do is take the blade guides to bits and clean them. Looking at the photos I realised I put part of the top support in backwards, so the locking screws face the wrong way.

I knew the blade welder wasn't working when I bought it, he said it had been "fixed" some years ago, but it's not working.

Here is the photo from trademe, it's much cleaner now. Looking on google, it seems like many saw brands use "identical' blade welders.

I'll probably never use the blade welder and just buy ready made blades. But I thought I'd take it apart and see if I could find what was wrong with it. "How complicated could it possibly be?".

Someone has been in here before me... That switch with all the cut wires is to turn on the little grinder. I assume the red cable originally came here rather than the terminal block? And then yellow wires from here to the terminal block? The grinder motor also has a loose red wire with a spade connector on it that has nowhere to connect to.

I assume the two wires coming from the saw are phase and neutral, and it earths through the casing?

Does anyone else have a blade welder like this and can take some photos for me?

Sorted out the bore size so it's the same as the disc bore.

Then I made a mandrel to stack the disc and the sandwich plate and the old disc, so I  could use the holes in the old disc as a drilling guide.

After properly measuring the thickness of the lugs on the old calipers, I could use the 50mm facing mill thing to take the bracket down to final thickness of 18mm(not 15mm).

I also machined the other bracket to final thickness.

I really need to sort out some parallels for the milling vice. I've been using my lathe tools as parallels :/ because they were the only things I had that were a suitable size and uniform thickness. 

Here's the 3rd blank which I hopefully won't need. Also the blanks for the sandwich plates for the discs. So glad I got them to plasma the 50mm hole in the middle, I would have taken forever to whittle out on my little lathe.

So despite bolting it to a big bit of metal, the shrinking from the welded patch has lifted the front of the sump up about 1-2mm. Pretty sure if it was not clamped down at all I would have ended up with a pringle.

Not sure what I should do.

Bolt it to the engine and hope for the best?

Bolt it to the the jig and heat it up? With...?

Found some guy on Youtube showing how to take a bow out of an aluminium cylinder head by clamping it to a plate with some shims so the clamping reverses the bow, then stick it in a 260 Celsius oven for 5-6 hours. This seems like the go, but no idea who could do this and how much it would cost.

Just dropped the sump off with Brian Howat to TIG the patch in.

I cut a hole in this sump I paid lots of money for.

I need to get some 4-5mm sheet to fill the hole.

I want to make up a jig/brace/plate I can bolt it to so there is no warping when it gets welded. 

Used some 6mm flat bar to work out the dimensions and hole spacing of the caliper brackets.

The caliper mount is not sitting perfectly parallel to the disc, there is a ~1mm difference between the leading and trailing end. I hope this is not because of triumph manufacturing tolerances, but by a bit of wiggle in the spacers and will be resolved with the final 18mm thick brackets.

The caliper fits with heaps of room to spare. I took them off so I can use the pads for alignment.

12 hours ago, gavinnz said:

I have a couple of bunny cert questions.... I have bought a copy of the Car Constructors Manual which I am currently reading and I am trying to get me head around some of the details as they relate to my build.  The car I am building is a 1990 MX5, with body mods smoothing out the body and getting rid of lots of body lines, lowered a small amount on coil overs, fully open Speedster with a 3.0, 12 valve Alfa Romeo V6 driving the rear wheels through a MX5 .

1. Is there any leeway with the minimum height for rear reflectors on a car?   I read in a couple of places that 250mm off the ground was a min, but I would like to go lower.... 

2. With a fully open car (Speedster with not even a soft top) with a good central mirror do I still need a side mirror on the drivers side? 

3. I have headlights (pop up) and one pair of front indicator lights.  Can those indicator lights double as park/position lights?  Normal indicators when the lights are off. Both on when position lights are needed then changing to one side off and one side flashing when indicating??

1 and 3 are probably in here: https://www.nzta.govt.nz/resources/rules/vehicle-lighting-2004/

2. My Starlet hasn't had any side mirrors for years. Hasn't been mentioned in two certs and numerous WOFs. It's kind of annoying not having one when changing lanes. 

I've had it done. They put it on a wheel alignment machine, then use a gas welder to heat spots along the back or front of the axle tube. AFAIK, heating the front of the tube then letting it cool makes that side shrink the tiniest amount and gives you toe-in. It takes only a tiny bit of shrinking to change the toe angle.

I don't know who might do it. Ron Scanlan did mine years ago, but he is not with us anymore.

I'm looking at a tow bar on the tard for my 2001 corolla/allex/runx/thing. I suspect it's aftermarket.

https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/toyota/accessories/listing-2198789113.htm

Is it typical for a tow bar to be mounted using long bolts and big washers, from the boot, through the chassis rails, with no crush tube?

It seems like a good way to crush the chassis rail....

I haven't found a picture of what an original toyota one looks like. I'd assume they would attach it using the bolt holes for the tow hooks.

lightning mcqueen