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Posts posted by Adoom
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The Scimitar has swapped places with the Starlet into the garage because I wanted to roll around underneath and gravel floor makes that suck.
The chassis looks good, couldn't find anything but minor surface rust. YAY!
The car is an auto but a manual pedal box came with it.It was gross, so I stripped off the hideous green paint and rust in the sand blaster. Also tried one of the smaller nozzles on the gun. 300% more effective! Wish I'd thought of it ages ago.
Paint it black.
Made a template from the pedal box for the clutch master cylinder hole. The auto/manual pedal box is basically identical, but on the auto, one of the side plates is not there. The auto one does have the clutch hole too, there's just no studs.
Then drilled the extra hole. The fibreglass is about 10mm thick here!
I'll epoxy paint the whole area here to amalgamate any worn... fraying fibreglass.
I had to remove the remote brake servo to get the drill in. I'm going to assume the remote servo wasn't doing much because the diaphragm part was half full of brake fluid. I sand blasted all the oxidation off the aluminium anyway.
AFAIK, the early scimitar used the same size master cylinders for the brake and clutch. So I can probably use the old brake master for the clutch master, assuming it's rebuildable and find an appropriately sized dual circuit brake master(YES, it was SINGLE CIRCUIT BRAKES!) to go in it's place. Possibly using the remote servo on the front circuit(if it can be rebuilt that is).
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Actually, I take that back, the engine front cover doesn't look right.
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I sent in my design approval forms for the LVVTA Technical Advisory Committee in late Dec. Their next meeting wasn't until Jan. Late Jan.
At the end of Jan it was posted back to me and the design was approved.So THE NEXT DAY I went to may certifier's favourite welderm Graeme Kidd in Upper Hutt.
A couple of weeks later, he'd done it.
AS SOON AS I got in the gate at home.
I put them in the lathe and sanded off the burnt sticker and powdercoat.
They still need to get NDT tested in Wingate. Graeme says it's a crack test.
But I could not wait to try fit them.
I had already modified the top plates and the strut towers the previous week.
Using a straight edge and the angle thingy in my phone, it's got 0 deg camber at ride height with plenty of adjustment in both directions.
They ended up 10mm shorter when installed than I'd calculated. So that's a bonus, the adjustment won't be totally bottomed out at ride height.
On it's own wheels and suspension! I can push it around! It's 10mm lower at the front here than the back. I may raise it up that 10mm so there's a bit more travel.
The springs are 6kg I think. I was expecting them to be WAY too hard, but If I bounce on the guard it doesn't feel massively stiff.
The engine needs to come back out now so I can redo the engine mounts on the chassis in thicker steel like the cert man said. And to weld in the lower steering column mount.
I should paint the exhaust manifold while it's out, it's getting surface rust on it.
And one of the front split rims has a leak, so the tyre needs to come off to redo the sealant.
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7 hours ago, VitesseEFI said:
Mate of a local mate has this
It has a “lightly tweaked” 3.2 GM V6 in it with R25-R28 box and is apparently a “bit of an animal”. Possibly the driver is also as he’s already killed two gearboxes…
I believe that may the the same engine series as mine?
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So there's a big oval hole and a small hole covered up?
Over that is a red pair of underpants with a large round hole for a circular metal vent that looks like a radiation symbol?
Covering over all that, sealing the area below the top vents, is a larger purple pair of underpants with a big hole that the access plate(which was in the boot) goes over?
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6 minutes ago, dmulally said:
It's the CWP out of a Jag IRS rather than the Mk2 live axle. It's a cool little setup and seems very kit car like.
Not all of them fit however so a bit of homework is involved if changing the ratios. But with that overdrive box I wouldn't bother and the diff will be fine with the alloytec. I don't recall the brakes being a problem either in that one.
Before I forget I'm pretty sure I hacked the firewall so much there is no heater anymore. Also I recall having dramas with the fuel tank outlet fitting on the bottom. I can't remember exactly what I did but there was something happening down there. Not sure if it split screwing in or I swapped it already. Worth a look anyway. I was looking at doing the return to the filler neck. To test drive I used a jerry on the passenger seat which is always zesty.
I was meaning to ask if you'd actually got the ecotec running as EFI and what you'd done for the fuel. I plan on pulling out the fuel tank eventually to have a clean and inspection under there.
Yeh, there's not much left of the heater box thingy. I want to do something there to make it look less like there's a big bit missing. I think I might actually have the room to reinstate it, if I can figure out what it's meant to be like. I suspect there's supposed to be two kinda chambers or something? And a kind of rotating circular vent that's gone now? I've not had much luck finding any pictures or photos of the area that aren't obscured by an engine. -
20 minutes ago, locost_bryan said:
I'd be more concerned about the chassis, brakes, and diff handling more power than an Essex V6.
It's a separate chassis with a fibreglass body. The chassis is pretty substantial. The diff is a Salisbury which I understand is.... big? Like a Jaaaaaaaag? I dunno, maybe okay.
The brakes are a question mark. They are 10.5", but solid. The calipers are weird, two small pistons inboard and one large outboard. Maybe I can get away with better larger calipers and good pads. The front suspension is mostly Triumph TR6 so I guess brake upgrades that go on a TR6 will work.
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21 minutes ago, Honda Ass Dragger said:
Excited for this LFX engine seem to make good numbers with a tune 200kw can be achieved with basic intake, headers exhaust
This is the early poverty spec LE0 that only has VVT on the intake.. The fancy 195kw one also has VVT on the exhaust cam.
But hopefully with a better flowing headers, exhaust and intake I'll get more than factory 175kw. I'll have to make headers they need to route over the chassis rails not between them.
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@dmulally twisted my arm... not very hard. But this is mine now.
I had to build a lean-to for it to live in because my garage is full.Needs and engine and gearbox. I figured a 175kw Holden 3.6 Alloytec with a 6spd manual should be the business. Damo had a V6 Ecotec in it previously so I assumed there was a fairly good chance it will fit.
These engines have issues with the breathers blocking up if you don't change the oil when you are supposed to. The breather is hilariously tiny and so are passages in the baffles in the cam cover, so it's REAL EASY for it to block up. Then the heads start filling with gunge that causes issues with oiling and timing chain wear. The engine I got has this issue so it may be stuffed... but it was cheap. soooo.
I got a gearbox from an importer in Auckland as well as a used aftermarket Exedy one piece flywheel and clutch(OEM is a dual mass flywheel).
I'll have to run an aftermarket ECU. I looked into using the factory ECU but as far as I can tell, you cannot easily get it to work without also having the matching body ECU.
A brake light lens is broken but they are available from UK. The "SCIMITAR" badge letters and the emblems are missing. Damo thought he had the letters, so maybe they will turn up. If not, they are also available from UK.
The door is apart because I was trying to get the electric windows to work. ELECTRIC WINDOWS!!! Turns out it was a bad earth under the bonnet. Being a fibreglass body, everything had it's own earth wire and they all run back to the same spot under the bonnet. I also fixed the horns, just chucked them in the ultrasonic cleaner and they started working again.
NEWS FLASH, the engine didn't fit. But I did some sump surgery and now it does.
Only a oil level sensor is in the front portion, so no need to move the pick up pipe.
I'll make up the missing capacity in the rear section.There is a big bracket for the alternator and some coolant pipes on the right side that I'll need to relocate to center the engine.
The alternator may need mount backwards out the front of the engine. Otherwise, it seems to fit without issue.
Oh and FUCK ME, the front pulley is on TIGHT! You have to pull from the center hub because the outer is rubber mounted. My big puller would not fit so I got a smaller 100mm one. It was not happy. I don't expect it to be able to remove that pulley more than 3 or 4 times before the threads are destroyed. I left it off because I'll need to inspect the timing chain at some point.- 26
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Oh, yeh... Z! I meant Z axis! Still on my first coffee.
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57 minutes ago, nzstato said:
Spindle is MT2 so will look for a cheap ER collet adapter.
My little victoria mill is the same style as yours. Mine has very little height on the Y axis so I am limited what I can fit in it. With the ER collet adapters you lose a bunch of that Y axis height. But I've seen that you can get Morse Taper collets so you don't lose any of that height. Only place I've seen them is AliExpress but I plan on getting some for mine.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001290084904.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.15.a5ab65adLHdY2M&algo_pvid=613f5e49-b71c-4338-a4a3-fcef7f044b58&algo_exp_id=613f5e49-b71c-4338-a4a3-fcef7f044b58-7&pdp_npi=4%40dis!NZD!28.79!13.52!!!17.35!8.15!%402101fb0f17070787860652967e24f3!12000015596385030!sea!NZ!2759864156!&curPageLogUid=63pmDu0HRsUW&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch|query_from%3A -
So I was using my big german lathe(which is metric) yesterday and finally got around to having a closer look at the dial on the cross slide. Up till now I'd just been eyeballing and checking with the vernier. It's a 3mm pitch screw, but the dial goes up to 125.... ?! I got out the calculator and realised that the dial is measuring in thousandths of an inch. So if I want to use the dial, I have to mentally convert 20thou = about 0.5mm. ACCURATE!
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43 minutes ago, ~Slideways~ said:
Turbo is smaller than a td04, could be good on a turbo Nissan mini thing.
20 minutes ago, ~Slideways~ said:Yep tiny wee thing, tf035 I think...wait here you go:
LOL! I just got a tf035 from a 1500 Mivec Colt at pickapart yesterday for my 1300 nissan engine mini thing.
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Oh and alternator will be high mounted behind the oil filler cap, that seems to be a std solution in other K11 minis.
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The engine is pretty much in the only place it fits. With more trimming around the back of the subframe I might get another 10mm before the gearbox meets the steering rack.
I'm going to step the top/front corner of the inner wing into the guard to get a little more clearance off the corner of the head.
I threw some "stunt parts" in the hole to see if there is any chance this is going to work.Mounting the turbo at the front will have almost all of it in front of the grill.... But if I put it over the gearbox... There might be enough room to run the manifold under the engine, then up the back to the turbo then back down for the dump pipe.
Loads of room if I top mount the IC.... interwarmer styles. Gonna need a powerful fan and vents...Only done the lower control arm mounts so far. Still got to make a bridge under the top arm mount.
I trimmed the inner guards and hammered some new flanges to put some stiffness back in them. Turned out quite good!
There will be a CV and driveshaft here to try get an up and down pipe around.
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Sounds like the same as mine?
There is a lot of business going on in mine that is in the way, but hopefully you can see what is going on here. The bracket also supports the indicator.
This is the right side mount.
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I thought I'd do some work on the poor neglected mini.
I took out the subframe and welded a jig for it on my steel bench so I could cut it up and weld new bits in and have it still bolt into the car.
I used the plasma cutter for the first time in years and years.
After cutting it up I realised that I'd mounted it too low to fit the engine in the subframe while it's in the jig. Le Sigh. I guess I can work around that by fitting the engine in the car to ballpark where stuff needs to go then use the jig for the welding.
I've since added some tabs to the jig to prevent the front mounts from turning on the bolt.
Right now, the big bit of the subframe is in the paddling pool full of citric acid to clean it up a bit.- 14
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So I mentioned at work that I wanted an lpg weed burner, but didn't want one $300 much.
Work comrade suggested I could make a forge burner for under $100. The 'jet' is a mig tip and yes, I have used soapy water to check for any leaks.
Progress so far of forge burner on a stick.
Yes, I am the shittest cameraman. I was concentrating more on not setting myself on fire than aiming the phone.
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Making a jig to align the flange on the coil over tube. Fortunately the left and right sides are the same, so I only need one jig.
I'm hoping I can stand the jig on it's end in the mill and use a hole saw that is the same diameter as the tube to cut the middle out of the flange.
The flange still needs milling flat, and it's 2mm too thick.
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And the other side is done.
I took it down off the axle stands to see how it looked. The subframe MIGHT, be 5-10mm closer to the left side..... or it's a 70's British car and it's not symmetrical. I have allowed for some misalignment by not welding the mounting studs in, they are just clamped by those two cap screws. So they can be moved around a bit when it's on a wheel alignment machine, then they can be welded solid.
The front is supported by the jack, no springs or coilovers up there yet.
The front arches are just SO ENORMOUS. I've measured the ground clearance of the front cross member and it's 180mm........ factory height.. .. But the sump is another 50mm lower. I'm not worried about the sump since it's it's in line with the wheels.
The gearbox cross member has 130mm clearance, I'm a little concerned that it might catch on those really tall speed bumps like they have in Upper Hutt. I could probably trim it down by 20mm, but the only way to make it any lower profile is replace it with a heavy bit of 10mm flar bar which just seems so crude.
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I needed to make the strut towers taller so they would work with the coilovers.
Not shown in the photos is how I partially fabricated the new top and held it in place with wooden spacers and tek screws. Once I had it tacked together I could cut the old top off and use the teck screws for alignment.
I welded the joins inside and out with it removed to make it easier on myself.
I left one side off so I could see to do the indie welds joining it to the tower.
Do the inside welds.
Close the hole.
The access to see wtf I was doing was real bad, but I also welded the back of the closing plate.
No pics, but the coilover fits now and I can adjust it so it's at ride height when the spring is compressed. There's plenty more adjustment left to fine tune.
Got to do the other side now.
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2 hours ago, cubastreet said:
Try your weedeater battery. Even though they say 56V they're 14S/52V.
I could give it a go. Won't last long, it's only 2.5Ah I think.
I might just have accidentally on purpose ordered a 52 volt 19 Ah battery on Ali. From a seller recommended for having good quality stuff using legit branded cells.- 2
Adoom's 1972 Triumph 2000
in Projects and Build Ups
Posted
Albert the NDT man in Wingate has tested the welded struts for cracks. Took 10 minutes.
He has an electromagnet and a solvent containing iron particles dyed with a flourescent dye so they glow in a UV light.
He puts the magnet across the weld and sprays it with the fluid.
The magnetic field aligns the iron particles which you can see under a UV lamp because of the dye. Any cracks will cause misalignment because the field goes around them.
So I've got a certificate that says it's passed. YAY!