Adoom

Can a 5 rib poly-v belt be too tight and damage the alternator bearings or something? Or are the bearings stronger than the belt?

I am running an alternator only setup on my 1UZFE, so there is no tensioner. An internet person recommended a gates stretch-fit belt of a particular size that fits.

I looked up the special tool used to install the stretch-fit belts then made do with random stuff that was the appropriate shape.

I got the belt on, but it's pretty dang tight. Should I be concerned for my alternator?

2 hours ago, WhangareiKE70 said:

I genuinely don’t know if you are trying to be rude or if that’s just how it is coming across.  
Clearly, I made a mistake buying an Apple product for this, but that’s for the same reason I posted this topic asking for advice, I do not understand this stuff. 
I was of the incorrect impression that because the app was available for both platforms then it would work. Semi-expensive mistake, but such is life. 

From reading that list it doesn’t seem like any desirable ECUs are compatible with the Apple products.

In saying that, even the Android/Windows list says that the current Link G4X range is incompatible, and Hatltech isn’t listed either, so maybe the Realdash app isn’t suitable for me anyway.

I'm am not trying to be rude. I'm from IT, I tend to over explain sometimes.

8 minutes ago, WhangareiKE70 said:

Well that’s dumb. But I mean worst comes to worst I just bought myself a tablet. Then I have to get another something for dash use. 
On that thread, did they mention if any particular type of ECU was compatible with Apple products?

Hyperblade posted the Link forum link along with GIANT screenshots. near the bottom of the first page, Adam, the Link guy, says "iOS doesn’t support usb serial port or Bluetooth serial port so it will only work with a few ECU’s that have an Apple approved WiFi bridge.".

So it sounds like if you want to use an iOS tablet, you need an ECU with Wifi... but it also has to be Apple approved Wifi.

If you just go to the Realdash support page, they list the iOS approved ECU's.

http://realdash.net/support.php

On 21/09/2021 at 20:42, NickJ said:

Thats interesting, some brands of Pushlock hose state not to use clamps/crimps as the barb geometry can damage the hose.

Pretty sure I read somewhere that Aeroflow recommend clamps on their pushlock fittings if it's over X degrees hotness.

EDIT: LOL just noticed I have basically just said the same as Cletus

3 hours ago, WhangareiKE70 said:

So I bought an Ipad Mini 3 (will fit in the standard gauge space). Second hand but in really good nic as I bought it off a friend who has an Ipad hire company, it was his personal one for work so not ex-hire and he has upgraded. Added advantages of working with other Apple bits too, and being slightly older still has an aux port for the music controller idea. 

Bought a bunch of these:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32964924123.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.7d1a4c4dj9WVZp

1x Hi-beam, 1x Low beam, 2x indicator, 1x handbrake symbol, 1x 4wd symbol, 1x low fuel. That's all the important stuff I could think of? Anything obvious I have forgotten that isn't covered by RealDash? 

Um. The post I was reading on the Link forum said the iOS version of RealDash doesn't support the Link ECU. AFAIK it's because Apple devices will only 'talk' to serial devices(the ECU) that are Apple certified.

I just had a go using Realdash on an old android phone with the G4 Extreme. Initial impressions, looks good. Too small on the phone, really need a tablet.

Would you be able to get a WOF using something like this as your primary instrument cluster, with no 'normal' physical speedo? @cletus

Is this stuff all good for EFI hose?

It does say unleaded gasoline and 290PSI, so I'm thinking 'Yes'...

https://aeroflowperformance.com/af500-08-3mblk-8-1-2-black-push-lock-hose

2 hours ago, Nominal said:

Nice work on getting it running. You must be pleased.

injectors could be sticky, worry about it later.

Thanks, it feels like I passed a milestone.

I should probably move on to wrapping the loom with the expanding mesh sleeve stuff I bought yonks ago. 

I'm keen on modifying something from another car and replacing the pump. Those aftermarket ones seem excessive for my application.

Does anyone know of a suitable doner that is all metal so I can modify it easily? I suppose I could just make it all from scratch. It's just a flat plate with some pipes and a bracket thing.

Has anyone installed a in-tank efi pump into a fuel tank that did not have one before?

I'm considering using an in-tank pump on the triumph, for the 1uzfe. My reasons are so I don't need to find an external mounting location and avoid having a surge tank and lift pump, also I would assume it's much quieter(because not-racecar).

Is it straightforward? How do you deal with fuel surge? The tank has no internal baffles. What about the height of the tank?

The oem stuff I have seen photos of look like just a big plastic thing with everything contained within it, I suspect I cannot modify that for height, or make use of the included float level.

Should I just use an external pump and mount it under the car, using the OEM outlet on the bottom of the tank?

I've finished the ecu wiring and want to test start the engine... but the old external fuel pump I had was fuckzorred(I think the E85 ate it) so I need to think about a new pump now...

Actually, this looks promising.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002602810952.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.257d6ddekfRGNd&algo_pvid=d840d349-13ad-42b0-a9bb-c5aa26c06c47&algo_exp_id=d840d349-13ad-42b0-a9bb-c5aa26c06c47-11

If anyone has links to part numbers for common OEM connector terminals, that would be super handy.

I know you can get them from places like RS components, but it's often hard to identify them from the one image they show you.

Please tell me you have a plan to narrow the track so it's the same as the maxi. I think a stealth look would be cooler than MASSIVE arch extensions. 

2 hours ago, Roman said:

Also invaluable is a good depinning tool

You can buy some but I've got a piece of piano wire that's sharpened at one end, with a little handle on the other and it's brilliant. 

Sometimes a bit tricky to see how plugs come apart until you've done a few 
 

Mine is one of those WTF does this even fit super skinny allen keys ground to a long chisel tip. I found that it works better than wire because it's stiff and won't easily bend.

Too late now, but I reckon citric acid would have worked on those steel wheels. Citric acid is cheap, you get it in powder form. I think I got my on trademe. A big bulk bag, not the teeny pots used for making food things.

Or electrolysis would be safer, no chance of leaving it in too long. Also cheap.

In both cases you need a plastic thing you can submerge a wheel in. Then you give them a rinse and wipe with a scourer pad. Nice clean metal, until it dries and immediately flash rusts. 

This old Tony had a couple metal spinning videos... He totally failed though, the material tearing or getting wrinkles.

5 minutes ago, daveyc123 said:

Hi guys,  bit of an odd one. 

So I've had my car 4.5 years and it's been an off the road project that whole time. I was told the rego was on hold when I bought it. Every year I've been reapplying to keep the rego on hold........ I was then told by someone at work that I shouldn't have to do that. Once it's on hold it's on hold. So I done some investigating. 

Turns out my viva has been registered by a previous owner as an exempt class A (EA) vehicle. That definitely isn't what it is. So I'd like to change it to what it should be. 

What's the process for doing this? I didn't want to just phone nzta and then it turn into a disaster. So any advice on what I should do?

As a bonus question the cars been resprayed (badly) in a different colour. So what's the process for changing that?

I'm not entirely sure I'm in the correct thread for these questions. But it didn't seem worthwhile creating a new topic for them.

As always any help and advice is appreciated 

Just for the on hold bit... Don't listen to that guy at work. You have to keep renewing the 'on hold'. If you don't, you will get a bill from NZTA for unpaid rego from the date the hold ended. This happened to me. 

AFAIK, to change the rego class, you just tick a different box on the rego form at your local rego form place vtnz whatever. I have not done this.

What's the deal with factory quad headlights in a car made in 1971.

Can I have all four doing DIP and all four doing High beam? Or does it have to be only two on DIP and four on High beam?

I think I may be owed an icecream. A photo will be sufficient.

16 minutes ago, jessemk2 said:

It's for acc levy,when you fall off and spend 6 months in hospital 

Apparently, even at that high ACC levy, it's lower than it really needs to be to cover motorcyclist injury costs and we are subsidised by car regos.

It's still painful whenever I have to pay >$500 rego on my 900 Hornet.

/OT