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77magnum13hundy

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Posts posted by 77magnum13hundy

  1. Yeh any areas I'm able to get at are being dealt to with strip disc on grinder and wire wheel, the hard to get to areas as in pics are getting blasted. Have a heat gun and scraper and a butane torch to help get shmuts off as it clogs strip disc on the thicker areas of tar or underseal. Not in a big rush so sections only will soon have it sorted. To prevent rust im coating with crc weld thru zinc paint.

    • Like 1
  2. After that it sat for a while and I ignored it in the back of my mind I needed to keep going even if it was just a small thing to contribute. I went to pick a part found a Silvertop engine and got it stripped out for bits I needed. The rest of the engine could be used for a rainy day such as fitting a 20v to my 4af spacio but I digress. I saw a panel beater guy down the road who I wanted to farm the work to, he had someone's shell outside with the tarp half hanging off so didn't think much of that place. Another guy came to my place and yarned for 2 hours about what we could do but he's on the shore and I ain't keen to ship it that far. We basically decided I would do the work and it went from me farming the work out to me committing to proceed myself. Dang. Shit. OK. Supercheap had deals on engine stands so grabbed 2 of them. I bought some 50 x50 3mm wall and decided to make a rotisserie. The carnage follows.

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    • Like 2
  3. The original tank had a small hose for fuel delivery and a fuel guage made by everyone's favorite Lucas. The bones of the guage ie variable resistor and the float rod etc were attached to the new sender. I was In 2 minds whether it would be worth using the older Lucas one and was thinking to modify the dash cluster to use a toyota guage and decided no harm in trying to use original dash guages. I had to ensure the float could get a full sweep from e to f and would not foul on the edges of the tank where the recess was. Few bends and changing the orientation of the floats rod had this working a treat. I didn't chuck any gas in it but tied a string and pulled it up once it was in its place. On the other end I mucked about with the dash cluster and bench tested with a battery and the fuel guage came alive. That shiney paint on the tank was the rad shops default and falls off when petrol gets near, for now il just leave it there but will need to sort one day soon. So with that in mind I was keen to then get gas to the front and start the engine that way I would have motivation to excel to be the envy of my former self who sits in garage looking at the thing and fixes dailys while it weeps in silence. So anyways here we are 2 x 3/8 fuel lines haggerdly bolted into chassis rail... crusty brittle fuel line and the underside looking like the hull of an old fisherman's boat. Yeh that won't do. This is where I went into the spiral of thoughts... you haven't gapped the rings yet soon as they expand your pistons are toast, you still haven't got Silvertop rods and that needs to be done... shit... OK engine out box out. Fuel lines out.. might as well attack the underside make it pretty for future me and have not doubt about how the paintwork is or how fuel lines are attached. 

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  4. Also I needed a baffle for cornering so it would not suffer if it gets peddled hard. Since the sender unit was too tall the next step was to create a recess on the bottom side of the tank. I still trimmed the sender down but also needed about 50 mm for an area for fuel to be readily available.

    After getting it close took it to radiator shop and they welded it up blocked off a few holes and then I painted insides with fuel tank paint as best as possible to stop further rust

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  5. So been a minute since I've been posting on this one, still at it, however as the saying goes life gets in the way

    During lockdown I fiddled with fuel system and retro fitted the old tank with a drop in system from a toyota of similar Era as the engine, this way it can have more room in boot and remove surge tank clutter... 

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    • Like 6
    • Thanks 2
  6. Oh man pretty keen to have some things fixed and

    Be able to make noises from This car again.

    Can Help or would like a hand tooooo

    Need, rewire, plumb fuel, fit oil cooler, panel weld, paint, rear brakes.

    Require custom seat brackets, some crimp joins for the wiring, find leak in banded wheel/replace broken bead or tube it.

    I have a tyre machine if you want to swap some rims over.

    • Like 1
  7. Annual update, building a fuel shell to house the surge tank and lift / main pump in the boot using an old mortar shell box.

     

     

     

    Also what would be good option to make LSD happen in this?

     

     

     

    And yes I have a spare diff to weld, does anyone make anything that would fit into this housing or should i go shortened hilux type deal..

     

    Keeping in mind the custom widened wheels, the 4x4" stud pattern, and just generally the least amount of fucking around involved.

     

    Been pretty down in the dumps lately so mojo and overall production takes a seat while i sort life out...

    • Like 1
  8. Slotted side goes against the crankshaft or moving parts and the flat side is against the fixed block/bearing cap...?

    Manual says facing outwards

    I have compared to the old one's the thickness seems the same... I don't have a measuring device to Mic them with

    NDC one's I bought.

    Cheers

    (will have another go, just wanting to know if the parts would be the same a cross the A series)

  9. So rebuilding 4age 20v bt and I got all the bits off segeez when it came time to chuck in the new crank bearings and thrust bearings it was binding even before I talked it up properly , I have since removed the thrust bearings and the mains don't bind so I believe it's those thrust one's... on the new bearings packet it says for 1a 3a but I'm thinking they not for a 4a block, or even for a 20v bt... anyone know if the thrust bearings for 4a are the same or would the 20v bt one's have a different one

    Part no.tw1400a..

  10. 2kish, maybe cheaper crappier ones out there but hell, fuck it... wheel balancer i have acquired but its a no-goer, needs to be tweaked, but seeing as how i bought it for $200 its a bit of a gamble... i think it needs calibrating or something... need to get some electricity pros on the case... then i can also balance the wheels which is the important one

  11. oh hai there, this thing still in my shed, and although i haven't really been that involved or focused on finishing i have been doing other things, house stuff, 2 dailys to sort out, basically i have been occupied with valid reasons for this to not be done yet.

     

    I have put it back together, and now towards the finish line. When i say put it back together i mean ive started to do this...

     

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    So this is the back end, where i'l be making the fuel setup go. Before i put the surge setup back in it needs some paint etc...

     

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    Also i got one of these when i re-jigged my mortgage, i know its a silly thing to have... so if you need to get your wheels swapped over for skids i will accept donations towards the silly purchase fund

     

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    Hopefully I will see more action in the shed now, bought 6 x fluro lights with 3 bulbs so should be sweet to see after hours now.

     

    Thanks for reading...

    • Like 4
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