dave123456789

chucking in fuckloads of water after sounds counter productive?

 

keen to learn more also, as in the OS verified version of steps, not the generic Google it & find it yourself version

 

followed by some fish oil type stuff?

 

Rust never sleeps :/

well you cant paint over phosphoric acid so you got to wash it off, get a damp rag to wipe down the panel after its done its job then wipe with another rag with some spirits on it to clean the panel then paint it. I think the comment of splashing water everywhere is when it gets in your seams and you have to get that shit out.

if you panel has too many scabs and is really rusty use mechanical means of removing it first via wire wheel (or even a brush if you cant get your drill or grinder in there) as the acid doesn't eat through half a mm of rust in my experience it only really works the surface so you have to remove as much as possible before hand.

if your panel is really shit just cut it out and put some new steel in there.

step 1: find some rust

step 2: mechanically remove as much as you can however you can

step 3: brush on some phosphoric acid (or wipe it on with a rag) make sure you wear gloves as it isn't that good on the skin or any cuts you got from removing the rust previously.

step 4: drink a beer or two or find other patches of rust to fix.

step 5: check your rust patch to see how it looks, apply for acid if needed.

step 6: wipe down with a damp rag to get rid of the acid. might take a few wipes to get stuff all nice and clean.

step 7: wipe down with spirits to clean the panel.

step 8: paint it.

step 9: cavity wax etc if needed.

also I like to work out why that shit has rust out. if there is a drain hole make it bigger/actually work. if its getting there from somewhere else that has been compromised your repair will be in vain and rust will come back. automotive seam sealer works great for sealing stuff up.

EDIT: also rust kill when you are ready to paint that area. there is no point rust killing the area only to leave it sitting for 2 weeks/months. rust starts as soon as you stop converting so don't let it take too much hold of your panel before you paint it.

careful using it around the seams on your floor. try not to get it into any places where you cant then neutralise it.

I just use the 250ml supercheap crap, I didn't find it too expensive and the bottle lasts ages. you can buy it in bulk from chemical suppliers, have also seen it on trademe in bulk but if you were to buy a 20l bulk container it would last the rest of your life plus the next few generations.

Definitely replace the steering wheel. If there's no light that comes up the inspector has no way of knowing it ever had one. Maybe check for a fuse/relay and remove that too for the same reason

After fracturing my skull on a oldschool nardi steering wheel I would advise keep the airbag.

just paid $82 bucks for 6 months on an evo 5. not bad.

My cat prefers halogens over LEDs. Always blocks the light from my halogen floor lamps while roasting herself.

Cool story.

Am currently in the process of removing the crappy bitumen based tar like underseal from my car and can confirm it is a terrible job. I would just go for a better quality thin rubberised one to start with. The tar stuff I have on mine hasn't set properly after 3 years and price difference is bugger all. Single worst decision I made restoring my car was using cheap underseal.

the tar stuff never sets. its suppose to be like that to "self repair" when it gets pummelled with stones etc. to stop it being nasty and all the dirt sticking to it I just went over the underseal in my arches with a can of black spray paint.

Just clean the underside, fix/neutralise any rust and slap some underseal on. I use brush on, currently using some stuff that smells like tar, mendent underseal. It's cheap as too and didnt take long to brush on. It is a nightmare if you ever want to remove it again though

Be careful what you agree it for. Might think it's a brilliant idea paying high premium insuring your 500 buck lazer for 10k but check the fine print alot of times will state will pay insured value or maker value whichever is the lesser so your fucked and getting 500 back all while paying for 10k worth of cover.

I watched it. I liked it. Still prefer Jeremy but this will do. Still has cars.

Sorted. Cheers

hey guys. anyone around east Auckland or even the Auckland area in general have an engine crane I can borrow for a bit? need to put my engine back in, usually takes 45mins to an hour. will return same day plus beverages if your that way inclined.

I live in pakuranga and will arrange a vehicle to pick it up unless your a overly GC and can bring it over for some gas money etc.

preferably this weekend also.

cheers

Got some tube and made up the gaps in the last 3. Got a welder here so will weld shortly

They all line up pretty good for not really knowing what I'm doing. Just made them out of cardboard tube, made it fit then cut down the centre of the tube to wrap it around my pipe then cut it with a grinder. Came up almost perfect first try then just needed a bit of grinding to make fit better.

Slowly getting there...

This is what I am doing, keep original radio in place and use an amp with an aux input hidden under the seat. just throw the aux cable under the seat when not in use and pull out and connect to phone/mp3 player when you want some sweet tunes. You could probably keep the original radio wired up to the speakers also if you still wanted to use it for some reason.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-stereos/amplifiers/other/auction-1078183102.htm

So it's been a long time since the last update but things have been happening.

We pulled the engine and gearbox again to fix that noises bearing. While it is out I painted the engine bay and the engine. All the pointless wiring has been removed and the rest is being tidied up.

Have removed the guard and under sealed them all. Fixed rust also. This guard is off because still need to weld a patch in inner wheel arch.

New shocks all round and tires.

Repositioned my aerial so it's on an angle. Think it looks better than straight up. Can extend it out to about 5 feet also.

Engine all painted. Redoing the extractors as previous job was rather shitty. Easier fixing when engine of car

Rebuilt clutch master, brake was rebuilt a little while back as well.

A guard, fixed any issues with it and under sealed.

Overall seems to be coming along ok.

That's about it for now. Will hopefully have exhaust fixed all soon and engine back in.

Discuss here if you want

//oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/36619-daves-prince-b200/?fromsearch=1

17inch g-zeros. preferably flakey chrome.

cracked a semi looking at that engine. amazing work mate.

How does this even happen by doing a skid? If you drive around tanked as hell all the time you still get to keep your car which is far more dangerous than a peel out from the lights.

Hell even burglars and people convicted for assault get off with a gentle spank compared to this.

I had one, car was under if for prob over a year. Was a cheap one from the warehouse. Paint didnt rub through but it was so mouldy and nasty when I took it off. Accelerated alot of damage. Was parked over gravel so I think that didnt help with moisture getting all up under there.

Bring my 6 pack of waters cunt.

ill buy you a doz waters if we can have it for a bit longer as I haven't even used it yet lol

Oh shit yeah im coming ! Will just need to wof Dave's 66 prince gloria

Or come work on my car for new two weeks while your off work

We will probably be departing from manurewa but could have a meet up at the servo on the side of the motorway as you head south. as long as we all have an assortment of tools we should all make it

Me and matteybean are heading down in his car from Auckland. leaving Thursday. don't think we doing track day so will be a mid morning departure or so. Who else is driving down Thursday?

Get a glass polishing kit and don't do it by hand or it takes years. get one that fits on a drill. usually comes in a powder with a pad and you just buff it back to mintness.

could maybe have a hoon with some autosol which would work but prob best to use proper glass stuff

edit: should probably find some links to kits so will do googling now.

nothing to lose if your getting it for scrap value. got a welder?

how long you planning on keeping the car for and was the rust picked up last wof? paying people to fix rust costs a decent chunk and that's leaving it with primer patches everywhere. getting it then painted hammers the wallet.

tin of bog and some sandpaper and a spray can will fix anything. I like to rub a bit of dirt over the top of my freshly painted repair to blend that bad boy in for max stealth.