dave123456789

I recently got the prince back on the road and semi reliable so may head down. Farken huge mission though from helensville.

oh dear god please don't put a holden 308 into it!

why not? its got a craptastic 3.3 in it currently

hey guys i own a 1966 prince gloria and need to upgrade the front brakes to something better as have a holden 308 to repower with.

where do i start? do i just pull my brake setup off and take to pick a part to find something that will fit but is disc?

take carb off, pull apart and go nuts with some compressed air.

Yea you just cut the flare where the door ends and attach that part to the door. could you chuck up a picture cause depending on car/how much it overhangs it could end up looking stupidly gay

I think i know what you mean, it overhangs a bit so door wont open when arch is on? depending on how much is covering door could make it two peice like evo 5s etc otherwise get some fibreglass matt and resin, chop the center out and reshape the arch so doesnt go over the door.

4age + carbs = win

hey mate what does that power booster do? i found one floating around the engine bay of the prince and was stuck down below the battery. never bothered to hook it up.

Its got shorter springs, and i plan on reseting the leaves in the back, All i wanted to do was lower the front slightly more, the strut bolts UNDER the wishbone so it will definatly lower the car.

i don't really care if it seems 'retarded' to you, aslong as its safe. since if you think about it. its essentialy the same as lowering blocks in the rear. it just re positions the wheel in relation to the spring.

Now that was a serious question. is it a safety hazard? i cant take pics if needed

measure front springs with car jacked up, remove springs and cut a bit off them as long as you dont make them shorter than when you had the car jacked if you understand? shouldnt have to cut much if you only want half an inch

I wouldnt recommend VTNZ kumeu, the failed me on a few things when I tried to remove a pink sticker then once I fixed those problems they failed me on more things and then finally randomly decided I needed a cert for a top mount turbo. Those guys fucked me around and its a fair drive from South head to there

There was a small bit of dirty stuff in the carb but nothing was blocking the gauze. Went to town with compressed air and am going to put back on car again in a few minutes.

What do you mean by valve? you mean the part the suppose to let the lpg in? The car idles fine and runs the same as always its just if i try to gently raise the revs it will die.

what im trying to get at is had it suddenly just started doing this?

Yea it had just randomly started doing it.

I put it all back together and the idle was about 300 higher than usual, put it back down to 7-800 now runs fine. Must have been some stuff got sucked in when the fuel was cut off and it was just pumping air through it.

There was a small bit of dirty stuff in the carb but nothing was blocking the gauze. Went to town with compressed air and am going to put back on car again in a few minutes.

What do you mean by valve? you mean the part the suppose to let the lpg in? The car idles fine and runs the same as always its just if i try to gently raise the revs it will die.

Yea car use to have LPG but now just runs on gas as lpg cert expired 10 or so years ago.

Car does have one of those glass filters but thats it.

Car was fine before it died now its acting weird. Pulling carb apart right now.

Hey guys, i took my car out today and got a new wof/reg and on the way home was mucking around with the GAS/PETROL knob and left it on gas so my car never started then the battery went flat. worked out what I had done wrong and roll started it back into life although now when I give it light throttle as if I was leaving an intersection it dies but if i punch the gas down a fair bit its fine.

Am going to pull carb off tonight and give it a clean out since i am suspecting that thingie that squrits petrol when the throttle is applied (very technical terms ) is blocked since my fuel tank is full of crap.

Any ideas what else would cause this? car drives fine and doesnt die when shifting gears its just the light throttle causing problems. 3.3l vauxhaul engine zenith carb.

thanks.

edit: dont tell me to always mash the gas pedal, clutch already sad

I wonder if mint examples of 80s turbo mitsi's are worth anything?

My bosses father owns a turbo mirage which he got when it was 6 months old off a grannie who thought it was too fast. done 18000ks and is locked in a barn with his other old cars hes bought as investments.

I can't imagine there would be too much value there yet unfortunately, but give it another 5 or 10 years, when all the currently running versions have well and truley fallen off the road, then the value of these 80's cars may sky rocket. Selling back to Japan is probably another option too, if it is a mint 18,000km original.

What other cars does he have tucked away, just out of interest? Make sure this sheds location remains a very well kept secret. The internet is quite a public place.

yea its original as still has plastic shit on the seats. i dont think he plans on selling it anytime soon. hes got a few 70s/80s mercs, i didnt really look at much else just the mirage. nice red/black color with a huge TURBO down the side

I wonder if mint examples of 80s turbo mitsi's are worth anything?

My bosses father owns a turbo mirage which he got when it was 6 months old off a grannie who thought it was too fast. done 18000ks and is locked in a barn with his other old cars hes bought as investments.

A couple more questions befor i head off to bed.

If its externally regulated is the regulator to big old plastic type or it is the size of a matcbox ?

Your proplem is going to be one of 2 things.

One of the diodes on the rectifier has blown. This will most likely be visible if you pull the alternator apart. When a diode blows the warning light will still go out and voltage will increase slightly but not enough to charge the battery.

If its the old type large plastic regulator then chances are that could be the problem, but the fact the warning light goes out tells me its more likely a faulty rectifier.

Long story short.

Replace the alternator. Its not economically viable to repair such an old style of alternator.

Better still, adapt a internally regulated jap style alternator, easy peasy to wire up and generally wont cause any problems.

Pull your alternator apart for peice of mind, see if any of the diodes have shit themselves. Get a screw driver to gently tweak each diode and the shit one will usually just pry apart.

Of coarse all of what i say is just based on what you have told me.

The regulator is a big box about the size of a packet of cigs.

Ok i will take my alternator off and check those things that you mentioned. If it is truely stuffed i'll hunt around for something that will either fit in its place or i'll have to make up some new brackets.

Gutted was hoping that this would be a nice easy fix.

Thanks for your time

Ok thats a good reading. Is it internally or externally regulated ? And i assume your warning light on the dash goes out ? If it does go out is it glowing very faintly. You will need to look at it in the dark to see this.

Its externally regulated, the warning GEN light goes out and is completely out. Just checked it in a pitch black garage.

Thanks for you help so far, been pissing around with this all night browsing google on the laptop trying to get it sorted before I have to pay someone to do it.

To do a volt drop test put one end of the voltmeter onto the alternator caseing and the other to the negitive on the battery. Should read a maximum of .2 volts then put one end of the voltmeter on the positive terminal on the alternator and the other end to the positive on the battery, again should read no more than .2 of a volt

Ok with the meter on the alternator case and negitive battery i get pretty much nothing, highest was 0.01. with the meter on the alternator positive and the positive on the battery i got 0.08

I chucked the meter on the positive on the alt and earthed the other end and its giving pretty much the same readings, all way too low to charge the battery. Also that 13.5V with nothing on is more like 12.7-8 at idle and low 13s with revs.

I guess this means my alt is stuffed?

Hey guys I have been trying to work out why my battery doesnt charge. It charges at 13.5V with no lights etc on but as soon as I turn my lights on it dips to 11.8-12.3 if I rev the shit out of it. 3.3L vauxhaul motor

I use to run 185's on a 8inch wide rim and was mint. Never had any problems with cops/wofs or tires popping off beads.

I have the same problem in my prince gloria although when I am driving it goes up to about 12.5 on the gauge and sits under 12 if I drive with lights on, cant use my car at night