cammmy

Second SC14 now sorted! At the moment I'm looking at going megasquirt with wasted spark. May use the standard ign setup with MS doing fuel only and swap to wasted spark down the line.

Looks like the bigger, EFI motor is sorted. Just gotta get it now. Looking for another SC14 in good nick with bypass and bolt on bits included. Let me know if anyone knows of something.

Without wanting to jinx anything. Think I have a 4L EFI motor sorted.

CaMpy spoke to a dude at his work who builds RV8 powered trials trucks. Reckons an SC14 will be sweet for a 3.5 or 4L I'm not looking for big boost anyway. Plan is to keep the compression standard for decent N/A performance and then just run the charger for extra oomph when I want it. Not looking for more than about 8psi at a maximum. Can always add another charger down the road if required

Just had a thought If I'm going to make a pipe from the superchager that splits and goes to the two carbies. What if I just made those bolt directly to the manifold and have injector bosses put on them. Twin point injection and use megasquirt with MAP sensor/TPS to run it? Not the best but possibly cheaper than sourcing a full EFI setup from a Range Rover and easier than modifying the carbies to handle positive pressure? I think my charger came with the throttle body. I'm not experienced with this, is it a viable idea?

Will do. Not sure when it will be but would like to start within a couple of months. Just need pug back together first and then accrue some more bits and peices for this.

Thanks dude, will do.

Nice! Thanks

Thought I'd update this. Have sorted 2x RV8 5spd boxes an related bits, duplex timing gear (adjustable), electronic ignition module and dizzy to match and have an SC14 on the way. There are various other bits I need to get but it's time to start looking at how I'll mount this. There are kits to put RV8's into Stags, the engine bays are the same and I've been told by the manufacturer it will work. So will more probably go with that as long as they don't try to pull my wallet out my arse. Although even if they do I'll probably have to go with that anyway.

the trump did make a noise like it was trying to start for a split second then stop. After that it wouldn't make any noise at all until you ran the stick through and back to park

Is it an auto? Run it through to D then back to Park if so. Had this with the trump a few times before conversion, was the inhibitor switch not realising it was in fact in park.

Would most of the flywheels and clutches be pretty similar?

Thanks for the advice. I'd like to re-use the box I have as I only bought it last year. As my brother is an engineer it's probable that he could make a suitable adapter plate. I'm being pretty tight on this one as I'm currently building up one of my other cars for hillclimbs and tarmac rallies in the future. I only got the motor as I mostly swapped Trump parts that I wasn't going to use for it. So anywhere I can save money without making a total arse out of it is good. Motor was dropped off last night.

Hi Everyone I have a Triumph TC2500 which we converted from auto to manual using all OE parts. I have recently arranged to swap some of my spares and a little cash for a '73 Rover V8 3500 from a P6. I have been told that the motor was removed as it was getting tired but was not broken (I trust the source). The plan would be to install it in the Trumper, see how it runs and try to guage what needs doing, then remove it and recon. The first thing that worries me is the gearbox. The motor was from an auto and there is no way I'm putting a slushbox back in there, especially after the money and effort that went into converting it in the first place. I would also prefer not to lose the money I spent in purchasing the manual currently in the car (which is a standard Triumph 4-spd non-OD). Would it be possible to have an adapter plate made, then use a spacer to move the flywheel back the needed amount? Would the Triumph box also handle the V8? I have been told by a Triumph guru that he has heard the boxes were designed to take up to 220HP and I doubt i would ever be getting more than that, but would like some more opinions. The rest of the driveline should be okay as he knows someone running a 351ci on a supra 5 spd but with all standard driveline from there back. I'm also looking at some SD1 heads, If I can get them for a reasonal price I will go for it as I have heard they are a much better head to start with. One question I have with this is that the below website states the compression for the P6 and SD1 motors as follows: http://www.mez.co.uk/TuningTheRoverV8-pt11.html 10.5:1 - P5, P6. 9.35:1 - Range Rover 1982 to present, SD1, most others. Would I need to skim the heads to bring compression back up? Or would I be likely to run into detonation due to the higher volumetric efficiency with the later heads? Would I also need different length pushrods to match? All information is appreciated as I'm pretty new to this. Cheers Cam